dannyboy

Hi All, I managed to fix my frozen CalSpa 2100. Wet end had split and they had to do something fancy to get a replacement but I have a dilemma. I'm buying a house with a pool and it has a portable spa in the back yard too. This unit is an Artesian Magic Class round unit and I couldn't find a hatch to access the motor. I believe it's a 2004 model and has a digital pad to control temp/light and pump. The Cal Spa 2100 is pneumatic and whilst speaking to the technician that changed the wet end (was a dog to remove from the motor so I called out) he mentioned I could upgrade to a digital pack for around $900 plus labor. My timer on the CalSpa is dead so I'm manual across the board in controlling it. Not knowing anything about the Artesian (other than it's round and looks smaller), does anybody have a any advice. I am going to move the cal spa to the new house. I think I'm getting one of those Pods to move with so I was just going to drill wheels in the side and roll it in letting a truck do all the relocating... I was thinking of selling the Artesian and using the funds to put in a digital pack on the cal Spa which I seem to know inside out due to my freeze story. Any tips/advice? cheers Danny

Thanks for the advice guys. Sorry I had not responded sooner but with Christmas I have been overwhelmed as everyone has no doubt. I managed to crack the Impeller on this wet end. Got it replaced and everything seems to be fine at the minute. Cheers for all your tips. She's fun and running. There did not seem to be any damage to the motor itself. think I got lucky on the whole and will not be letting that happen again..a wet dry vac was a big help in sucking out the lines of ice. Have a great new year Dannyboy

Bad news on my free CalSpa hot tub. The timer never worked and it got really cold the other night. I tried to turn it on and it just hummed so after inspecting the lines I discovered it was frozen pretty badly. I covered the tub with a tarp and thawed with a heater for a day and finally managed to get the tub emptied from the drain. I read that you could turn the pump on without water for a short period to see if it was still working after a freeze but i noticed some smoke coming from the backside of the pump. I dismantled all the plumbing, removed the pump and discovered the wet end had cracked it's part inside due to ice still being in there which must've caused the pump to smoke a little. What do I do. The tub is now empty. Most of the water is out except for some ice still in the 'bends' to the jets but we have another few cold days scheduled here in Colorado. Can somebody tell me what this heater tent is people speak about and any stores that rent them? How much roughly for a new wet end for a 2000 series cal spa? Have I caused the pump to be dangerous now do you think. As I mentioned the 'dial' timer on the panel does not seem to work so it would be manually shutting it on and off to stop it from freezing again if I can get it all thawed..I'd be worried it could catch fire but is a little smoke nothing to be worried about..? Regarding the remaining water. As I got the tub drained through these semi frozen pipes and say the motor is safe and still functions, will it be alright to fill back up and start getting it heated on a warmer day to thaw any remaining ice in the jet areas or does this put too much strain on it? Any help greatly appreciated for my stupidity.. Danny

Oh, another question...can anyone tell me the difference between the 1100, 2200 & 3300 Cal Spa models? Mine is pneumatic so is this something that can be replaced one day for a fancy digital controller? thanks!!

Hello, I seem to be the proud owner (maybe not according to the cal spa fans) of a free hot tub. My neighbor decided to give me his 2001 Cal Spa pneumatic 2200. After spending only 20 minutes in a successful move from his yard into mine I have some questions I hope you may be able to answer now I have stated looking at this thing and read all 33 pages of posts here. He mentioned there seemed to be a leak from the left hand heater pipe sleeve. This guy decided to just squirt glue in every crack he could find, but for some reason that didn't fix it . I have managed to remove all the glued PVC and have new sleeve joints for the heater flow through. Upon replacement, it will basically be a new plumbing job from the safety suction system to the flow through. The problem I have is that he also has offered the 240 wiring required from his garage but not until he moves so I have no way of powering this thing up. Is there a way to just fill the tub to check for leaks or has the motor got to be running to produce the normal pressure for them to be exposed? If I do fill it without the possibilities of power for about 3 weeks, will the water be useless and all stagnant? The way my neighbor has the power presently set is just a GFCI in the main circuit/breaker box in the garage then about 100ft of conduit to his tub. I live in Colorado so is this possibly acceptable? He had an electrician install this but I wonder if I require an additional sub panel located near the tub (or 10 foot form tub, 90 foot from panel box in garage). I was hoping that this thing would be super cheap (here's really hoping!!) and I could just mirror his setup as I have positioned the tub in exactly the same place as he had it. Saving on the cable/wire, the tub and the 50a GFCI breaker is a plus... One last question is that the sleeve on the heater flow through I have purchased was a split sleeve with a fairly large, clear rubber washer. On the PVC connection to it's left....the sleeve connector to the rest of the PVC, there is a thin rubber ring/washer. Which should I use.... The large clear washer that came with the split sleeve or the thin rubber one...? Just want to ensure I fix that leak. I'll put some photos up later to explain better. Thanks for any help you can give me on this. I'm hoping it's not going to be a major headache. If there are problems with it, as long as the liner has no cracks and is in good condition, it's salvageable (at a price).....right???? cheers dannyboy

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