B0Darc

I had changed out half of the water and it was pretty much crystal clear, but not heating. I ran it overnight WITHOUT filters and it came fully up to temp and NO codes. After soaking filters in commercial alkali type cleaner (mix with water) for three hours, threw same LF code (after priming and 15 minutes of running. Removed and soaked overnight last night. Put back in this AM but have not checked code situation.

ALL excellent advice, and YES a VERY nice setup. To get a little more granular on the above advice... 1.) Sticking with one line of products is easier if you find a place that keeps better stock. It'd be great if you could support your local Dealer, but if that's problematic, and they're too often out of stock, try the local HomeHarware mega store. You can't complain about not be able to get knowledgeable service from the dealer when he can't afford to retain good people or a nice inventory of products because you're shopping for the stuff he actually makes a profit on somewhere else. That's why if possible pick a friendly local dealer to keep in business. Personally I am able to get a single brand at my local HomeChainToolsLumber superstore and I'm sure that unified approach helps avoid any interoperable chemical compatability... but no one there knows anything about spas (!) ...but I don't *get* to complain. 2.) Measuring. Using a test kit will verify that you are doing maintenance correctly, and it quickly becomes intuitive how much dichlor to dump in etc., but the first few times you should measure. Read your manual or go online to find your spa's capacity (example:500 gallons?) next read the containers and measure the proper amounts. You can dump the carefully kitchen measured dry chemicals back into the product cap to get a relative idea of how much to add next time (without measuring so precisely). Your spa manual or dealer will likely give you a schedule you can remember and these forum guys have also told you already, however there are alot of different systems so general advice may not apply. If you have found a good dealer, listen to their advice. Using a nice stainless steel measuring spoon the first coupla times is still a good idea, and remember, TESTING is the real key. 3.) Ummm... realize you are sitting in a big pot of human stew... to put it most bluntly (apologies in advance!) There's alot of YOU dissolved in there and the water is sluggish because it's measurably thicker, which translates into an increased ability to retain bubbles. All the previous advice above was about making your water maintenance more of a focus... a religion. Some of the best advice above was read the Chemical section of this forum so you can learn what each of those items is actually doing and why it's important to do them in a specific order... it really will become more automatic... enjoy... your setup is very nice! Hey wait I see your problem now! I'm not sitting in your hottub with a coupla beers and/or hot chicks [again with the jokes]! Bo "MrsDarc says "NO" to the hot chicks" Darc

In business the "customer ~is~ always right" Dealers that know that will always be successful. It sure is nice to see you have found a reliable Dealer, and that you have given credit where credit is due... here lets say that name one more time, because folks should know where to go to find someone who is focused on delivering CUSTOMER SUPPORT {insert music here} Mark One Pool and Spa in Hemlock, MI Now I don't live near you or know of these fine folks at Mark One Pool and Spa, but I bet there are those that do... or will Me? I have only been denied my regular soaking for a few days and I feel like I a need to tunnel outta rehab... and sneak into a neighbors spa! I stayed in the shower for like 25 minutes this AM trying to get my "fix" ....didn't work [jokes!] I'll go searching for your whole thread now... congrats on getting your new tub! she's a beaut

As you can see by the subject line my Down East (MasterSpa budget brand) Exeter model spa is throwing a "LF" code which trips other codes as it continues to fail (dr and dry). Unfortunately "dr" and "dry" codes mean there's a low flow in the heater so it shuts off, not good in the winter! Looks like DownEast uses Balboa electronics as the error codes are inline with what I found online here SPA ERROR CODES All indications are that it is my filters. So it struck me that I am spraying off my filters with my garden hose and the cold winterized water coming out of there... so using the filter cleaning spray outside in Winter is probably like trying to wash your dishes with icey water ... meaning it wouldn't matter how much Dawn dish liquid you were squirting on that greasy plate it won't degrease with ice cold water! My filters are getting a little old so it's likely time for me to replace, but I DID get results by cleaning/soaking my filters in hot water inside (after hosing off any chunks or hair with the frosty hose outside) with filter cleaning juice... meanwhile I am still getting the "LF" code with the filters in place. So question; 1.) Maybe demineralize my filters with something acidic? Is straight vinegar bad? (smelly?) I saw something on here about Citric Acid which is a very safe organic food acid (Citrus) which is also sold as coffeepot descaler... of course that's 2 tablespoons for $9 at the store (for your coffee pot) or you can buy a one pound bag of "sour salt" for $2.50 Anybody use Citric acid to demineralize pleated paper filters? I saw the advice for using Muriatic Acid, but I'm a little wary about having pool grade concentrated muriatic acid around the house (20:1 dilution ratio, soak in a bucket til the bubbling stops). I like doing stuff for cheap! haha I saw the advice for using bleach for sanitizing instead of Dichlor/Calchlor/bromine 2.) Good online source for filters? 3.) Any way to backflush the heating channel? Would it really help? How about that Spa-Flush stuff? Should I not be focusing on the notion that the actual path through the heater might be clogged and just focus on likely clogged intake filtration? I mean I don't want to have to drain this thing after two months (read the advice regarding spa water change frequency calculation) Thanks in advance Bo