Dan.The.Spa.Man
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Posts
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Posts posted by Dan.The.Spa.Man
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Not a huge cost or problem. The filters are $30 to $60 each depending on which style and where you get them. They last anywhere from 1 year to 10 years. Depends on use, Chemicals,, and care of the filters. All the filters are pretty much the same between manufacturers so I wouldn't stress about the filters. People try to make it out like filters are some sort of magical piece of equipment. They are just made of paper, no magic involved, just paper pleats that filter out stuff. The filtration process and cleanliness of the water is more dependent on how the tub is engineered, user care, and how it runs. Envoy is a great tub.
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If you have replaced all of that stuff there is not much left. I would look towards the 18 volt relay that powers the heater.
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I was under the impression that jrpxxii is trying to sell the tub and is asking the dealer to simply hold it there and deliver it directly to the person that buys it.
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The new tub will only carry the remainder of the warranty left on the old tub from the original purchase date. Also, it is not transferable, so it will have no warranty on it at all if it is purchased by someone else.
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Virtually none of the parts from the '07 will work in the 2012 so it's not really relevant. Here is a thought though. If you are really stuck on the music system and it was a major reason for your original decision I would call the customer service department instead of the warranty department at Watkins. Sometimes one of the departments is able to help you out in ways that the other department can not. Not sure what you have gone through but they have always been fantastic to deal with on my end.
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My guess would be that they are offering a Geneva. They don't make the Elation anymore which was 7'7" square. The Geneva is 7'5" square, but in my opinion a nicer tub with more jets and air jets as well. Not sure if they will include a music system but since the other tub had one I would argue for a music system to be added. There is no way they would give you a Cantabria if that's what you are aiming towards.
More importantly, good luck with the chemotherapy. Don't let this stress you out. Any of the 2012 high end models are going to be better than an '07 Elation.
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They will replace with the same model unless that particular model is not in production anymore. In that case they will replace with the most similar or closest in size/price to original.
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Where is the white wire that is attached to the number 5 terminal in the hot tub hooked up to in the sub panel?
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Could be low voltage as well. I would check to see what the voltage is at the pump.
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Yeah, it sounds like the heater. 13 years is a good run for that heater.
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Its a1999 or 2000 caldera. As bad as it looks I've seen people buy worse for more. I've had people buy tubs like that and put in a service call because it doesn't heat and leaks only to tell me that they got it for a steal of $1500.
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There are probably 50-100 people out of the million plus HotSpring owners who have the ability and desire to do something such as this or solder on new relays. I think it's great and all the power to you. However, for the other million people or so who have spent $5000 to $10000 or more on the initial purchase on their tub it's not really that unreasonable to spend the $100-$150 or so it takes to replace this component if needed. It only takes a person with even limited abilities about 20 minutes to replace it with the new board. Just my thoughts. Good work though.
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Probably just some air in the circ pump. If you can't clear it by turning the breakers on and off several times, then you may have to slightly pull the line off from the circ pump and and put it back on again after the air bubble gushes out. Takes about 5 seconds to fix.
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The used spa guide lists that tub at $1400.
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I can check the hot spring used spa price guide tomorrow. New cover and pillows is good. Saves you about $500 . One thing that I always seem to notice is that when people say that the tub was hardly used it means that it was also hardly payed attention to. Can you post the link or pictures?
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If the "heater on" light is not coming on then something is not letting it come on. Either the wiring, the thermistors, or something else may have been damaged on the other board if it was burned up that much. Can you take a picture of the control box and wiring and post it?
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Thanks for the replies, so Dan The Spa Man, what you're saying is, air is supposed to be getting pushed through the larger dialed jets eventhough they are not connected to any air supply or air valves?
Thanks again
There is an air/Venturi valve built into the jet. When the jet is letting air in, there is an open "window" built into the jet that is connected to an air line with a check valve on the end of it. When you turn the bezel it closes that "window" and cuts off the air supply.
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Yes, the only way to turn the air in the larger diameter jets all the way off is to rotate the jet bezel itself. Those jets are not connected to the air valves in any way.
It is described in the owners manual under 'heating and hydro massage'.
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I usually just plug the hole with my thumb for the 3 seconds it takes to put the old thermistor down and pick the new thermistor up. Just make sure the oring doesn't pop out, or if it does, make sure to put it on the new thermistor.
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If your biggest concern is the crack it's not a huge problem. You can definitely drill a hole at the end of it and fill it pretty easily. If everything is working properly that's not a bad deal at all. If the cover is newer, the circ pump and heater are newer, then it's a great deal.
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I would pull some of the boards off behind whichever Moto-massage corner seems to have more water at the base. See if the foam is wet there. If so it's probably just the small nipple that attaches there or a glue joint leak near the elbows that attach to the backside of the Moto-massage compartment.
More than likely any other water you are seeing is just pooling from there and seeking the lowest point on your pad.
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Some things to double-check and look for:
Make sure the drain caps have orings and are tight (sounds obvious but I've been to at least 30 calls for this)
Check to see if the seal assemblies on the jet pumps are leaking....( where the motor and pump housing come together)
Look back into the motor compartment where the light is....signs of a leak will be calcium buildup around the edges or bottom.
Check for water at the base directly behind where the Moto-massage jets are (back corner seats)
Check for water at the base of the seat with the 10 small "precision" jets.
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Sorry for the slow reply.....hard to follow things on here with all of the spam. Yes, it's ok to run it like that. There is actually a retrofit part that replaces that air-intake valve which looks totally different. The new part is called a Hartford Loop and sells for around $40. In the new kit there is actually a plug included which blocks off that 1/8" line altogether.
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Try crimping off the small 1/8" line coming off of the T-valve and see if it stops cavitating.
Sovereign Diverter Valve
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Yeah...if the whole diverted body needs to be replaced it is a nightmare. The first thing to check is if the water is coming from the actual black diverter body in the motor compartment or if it leaking past the internal diverter valve and out through the top where it meets the shell. If it is coming out there then it can easily leak down between the shell and the lip of the diverter body where it meets the shell.
If it is the second scenario then I would try to replace the gasket in the diverter lever so it doesn't come out through the top. Sometimes even with a new gasket it will come throu the top and sometimes that top lip of the diverter body can crack. In this situation I have had good luck repairing the top lip with devcon where they have cracked, and sealing the top lip with silicone where it meets the shell.
If the actual diverter body is leaking in the motor compartment then there a re 2 possibilities. A glue joint leak where 1 of the 1.5" hoses is glued into the body...this can be fixed easily with devcon around the glue joint. An actual cracked diverter body that may have froze or something and needs to be completely replaced is very difficult and is probably easier done at the repair facility.
You would need to run the jets and really get a good look at where the water is actually coming from.