Dan.The.Spa.Man

I did set the jumpers, I think it was 1,2,3, and 9. It is converted to 220 volts. I checked the power and there is power to the heater. I also checked with a volt/ohm meter. There was 9.5 on the ohm meter checking the black and white wires to the heater. Any other ideas? John 1,2,3, and 9 is correct. If there is 220 volts at the heater relay, and the heater ohms out at 9.5, then it has to be heating. Do you have an amp clamp to put on one of the heater wires? Is there a jumper between the 4 and 5 terminals on the board where the wires connect?

Well, I don't know how else to say but it was a 2005 Caspain Hot tub with a 4K heater that could be reset with a button. There is absolutey no doubt about it. Perhaps you are mistken, or confused? I'm not much of a musciaon, so I really couldn't tell you if looked like a trombone or not. I do know when the tub wasn't heating, just like the original poster stated, pushing this button reset the heater and it started to heat. It wasn't an odd ball tub either. The very first time I filled it (june 27 '05) , I tripped the heater. I posted my problem to a well known web board stating I had a brand new 05 Caspian that wasnt heating. A very well known dealer/poster from across the country replied suggesting I hit the reset button, which I did. So other knoweldgable dealers where aware that my 05 Caspain had a reset. In fact here is the hotsprings dealers actual reply to my post; To fix: open the door and firmly press the reset button on the heater. Look at your owner's manual to find the thing, it can be hard to press. I'll have to refute this to the death...there is no manual reset on a 4KW Tiger River Caspian No-Fault heater. I'm going to guess that you are mistaken or confused, because I have been fixing these tubs exclusively for over 20 years. I'll have to check when I get to work tomorrow if the 2005 had the Tri-bend heater (which was 6K and had a manual reset) or if it came with the 4K Titanium No-Fault heater (which did not have a manual reset). There was a few changes in heaters around that time. If yours had a reset button on it, then it was most likely the 6K Tri-bend heater, and not the 4K heater that jd-santaclarita is asking about. If he/she has a 4 KW No-Fault heater then it does not have a reset button on it!

Is the Prodigy 110 Volt or is it converted to 220 Volt? Did you check the jumper configurations? Those would be the first things to check. The new IQ 2020 comes with jumpers in the board as if it is ready for 110 volts.

What can I say to you? The Tiger River documentation cleary identifes the heater on a 2005 Caspian as being a 4K heater: From the Owners Manual: http://tigerriver.hotspring.com/Easy/pdfs/...s_manual_05.pdf The Caspian model features one Wavemaster 8000 (2 hp single speed) jet pump and one Wavemaster 8200 (2 hp two speed) jet pump. The Bengal (Model MM) features a Wavemaster 9000 (2.5 hp single speed) jet pump. The Caspian and Bengal (Model MM) spas have a No-Fault® titanium, high watt density heater.The heating system consists of a 4,000 watt (4 kW) heater on the Caspian while the Bengal (Model MM) has a 6000 Watts (6kW) heater. The spas are also equipped with an energy efficient low-flow circulation pump, and a high-limit thermostat for protection of user and equipment. I know for a fact the 2005 Caspain has a reset switch. I owned the tub. I have actually seen it with my own two eyes, and on two seperate occasions used the reset switch. Trigger, If your's had a reset button then it either wasn't an '05 or someone put a different heater in. I understand it has a 4K heater, I service HotSpring/Tiger River/Caldera and replace about 10 heaters a week. Here is some info from the same owner's manual that you posted: NO-FAULT® HEATER AND INTEGRATED PRESSURE SWITCH It is important to note that the No-Fault heater is protected by both the heater high limit thermostat circuit and the integrated pressure switch. The causes of heater high limit tripping are discussed in the previous section. If the spa is not heating, the red and green lights are blinking, but the pump and light are operating, then the pressure switch may be open. Opening of the pressure switch is normally a result of one or a combination of these problems: 1) a clogged filter cartridge, 2) blockage within the system plumbing, 3) power was not disconnected to the spa before it was drained, or 4) an air lock in the plumbing lines. Once the problem has been identified and corrected the pressure switch will close which will energize the heater. The heater high limit thermostat ciruit is not a manual reset, nor is the integrated pressure switch. Did your heater look like a trombone? If so, that is the last heater that had a thermal cut-off which was able to be reset by pushing a button.

If it is the 4K heater then there is no reset on the unit itself. Not quite. Perhaps that mght be true on newer models (??) but my 2005 Caspain had a 4K no fault heater and had the reset switch. JD, Well then you have something weird going on then, because the No-Fault 6000 heaters were 6K and the next generation Tri-Bend heaters were 6K. Those both had resets. The Titanium heaters that followed are 6K and 4K and neither have manual resets.

If it is the 4K heater then there is no reset on the unit itself.

My first thought is to check the wiring. From my experiences, many pre-owned HotSpring/Tiger River spas are wired incorrectly. This brand is wired differently than most and the person selling the tub is generally not as descriptive as a dealer would be as far as explaining how to wire it. Do you have it set up with 20 amp and 30 amp breakers or just a 50 amp breaker? If it is just a 50 amp breaker then it will not work properly. Make sure the wiring is exactly like it should be based on the diagram inside the cover of the control box. If it is wired correctly, then you need to check for voltage at the heater relay. If there is voltage at the heater relay then you need to check continuity between the black and white wires on the heater itself. As far as the sound that the circulation pump is making, it should not really affect anything as long as you are getting enough flow, it's just annoying. There may be something in the circulation pump causing the impellar to rub against the side of the pump housing.

Well, you're a bit all over the map here. Not sure what you mean with a few of the problems. By fuse do you mean the breaker was tripping at the sub-panel or the red reset buttons on the side of the black control box in the hot tub? If it was the breaker then your heater is probably bad. If it was the red reset buttons then it is probably the small circulation pump that pumps water through the heater. If your light lens is leaking then it is pretty easy to replace. You need to chisel it out and buy a new light lens and some Devcon epoxy from a HotSpring dealer. Both repairs are easy for the Do-it-yourselfer on these older models. The heater should be $95 or so and the light lens/epoxy $85 or so. Maybe a bit more.

Those check valves are horrible. I've replaced hundreds if not a thousand. They normally will not leak if the power is on (they suck air). If your filters are dirty or you have the summer timer on then they will leak if broken. The good thing about HotSpring is that they will come up with a different check valve that will be better, hopefully you have the new style now.

Don't most tubs have air control valves, thus allowing you to control the amount of air/pressure coming through the jets? Why create a variable speed jet pump when the affect is already acheived in a much simpler manner? This way each person can control the pressure to their own seat without limiting each seat to the same power that would be created by the jet pump changing speeds.

You need to see if there is voltage at the heater relay. If you have a meter check to see if there is 220 volts coming through the relay. Also, if you hit it an hour and a half ago the tub may only heat up 4-8 degrees or so in that time and you may not realize a big difference yet.

Matt in BV...For some reason I can't reply to your message but I can start a new message with no problem...it comes up with a server error message...anyone else having this problem? The problem you are having with the lever can be fixed easily. If the lever has come all the way out (or if you can get all of it out), you need to pull it apart (it is actually 2 pieces that may be seized together). Pull the outside diverter or on/off valve cap off from the piece with the threads on it. Then screw the piece with threads on it back in as tight as you can get it...then put the outside valve back on to it. The reason it becomes seized is that people try to crank it on/off too hard and the inside lever and the outside valve become seized together. If the pieces are not seized together then it may be a simple case of the o'ring being crimped or missing.

The key phrase is 'APPEAR'' to achieve. What sort of experience are you drawing upon to proclaim that other companies achieve the same thing without the intake screen fabric? My experience is drawn from 50-70 service calls per week. Just so you know, other brands use low suctions without screens, and people find out the hard way that instead of cleaning that 'pesky' screen you need to call a service person to clean out your pump and have the diverter valve replaced...at a cost. Pretty much a confirmation of what Spatech said a few posts ago. I haven't read many service manuals that mention things several times over in describing how to maintain the tub. If it mentions it once, it pretty much tells me that it needs to be done.

No set screws, it just unscrews. I've taken off hundreds and may have broken one. If you break the plastic piece, there is a 'cross' that spans across the opening, you can grab this with a set of pliers and unscrew it. It may be tough to get off due to sand and debris in the threads.

You state that you had started your search a few weeks ago and were willing to spend 10K but the dealer let you walk over a cover lifter. Honestly? Sounds like you were not ready to buy if you were admittedly starting your search. It's easy to type on here that you were ready to spend 10K, but did you tell the dealer that you were ready to buy? If so then it's their bad for not closing the deal by throwing in the lifter. I would sell any tub in the store for $10K with lifter, stairs,etc. Good luck in your search.

I'll take the seal assy for $1000 as well.

Stacy, where do you live in CT? I can give you a sweet deal on a Vanguard or something similar sold by Watkins (HotSpring, Caldera, Tiger River). I am located near the Mohegan Sun. Check out treatspools.com for our site. Thanks...Dan

I'm sure you'll be much better off with the hose that you substituted. I'm not sure of any tests for ozone other than smell.

There is really no 'fixing' the silent flo unless it is just clogged. The E-5's haven't been out long enough for me to give an evaluation on how they perform. I just got mine in for replacements yesterday. I have a tub on the floor that has been running with an E-5 for a month and it seems to put out a good flow.

It is pretty easy to replace. You can crimp the lines off with 3 pairs of needle-nosed vise grips (May have to heat up the 3/4" lines with a heat gun first). Pull the electrical terminals off, pull the water lines off, and put the new one in.

Of course Chas is right on...good question to ask though. I can't tell you how many people just try to wire the tub with a 50 amp breaker and mess it up. Better to ask and get it right!

If the salesman had you thinking they were a top notch brand then he is good at what he does but that doesn't make it true. There are many excellent spa brands out there. There are also some large spa makers that I would stay away from and 2 of the biggest to avoid IMO are Thermospas & Cal Spas. I don't think you want to try again with Thermo after already seeing why Cal has a less than great reputation. I would definitely look to cancel. They always say you can't and will say something like "its already being built" or have some other excuse. Tell them Bulls### (and hopefully you paid with CC), you've changed your mind. I don't doubt you have a neighbor that likes their Thermo. Heck, there are many Cal owners who have had good luck with theirs. The problem is the % of people who have had problems AND the reputation of those few have for not backing their product well. I agree with Spatech again on this one. I sell and service HotSpring, Tiger River, and Caldera. I don't trash other brands when people come in for comparisons, just explain the differences and point out why I think ours are better. The exception would be when someone comes in talking about Thermospa. They are rediculously overpriced, difficult to deal with for service, and not what they appear to be quality wise. The salespeople are high priced assassins and are very good at what they do. Most people who come in to my store after looking at Thermospa seem to have been brainwashed by some sort of cult. I have a picture at work of a Thermospa that we just took back to trash after a customer purchased a new HotSpring...I'll post it later. Wait until you see what happened to their "Insulation".

Turn power off to the tub Open the IQ2020 control box The heater wires enter the box all the way to the left side. Take all three wires off from the board. Set your meter for OHMS (upside down horseshoe) and you should get a reading of anywhere from 9.0-14.0 depending on the heater. If it reads O.L. or zero then the heater is bad. If the heater checks out good, turn power back on with the heater still disconnected, with your meter set for AC voltage, carefully test the terminals from the board that you took the black and white wires off from. You should get either 110v or 220v depending on how your tub is set up. If you don't get this voltage then that whole left side relay board needs to be replaced. Turn power back off before you reconnect the heater wires. Good luck.

Another vote from me to stay far far away from Thermospa.

Unfortunately your liner is most likely finished. At 14 years old, there is no elasticity left in the vinyl to allow it to stretch back. If you try to fill it there will probably be more holes around the steps from the screw holes pulling down. I would get it replaced now rather than run the risk of it blowing out during the heat of the season.