gutsrus

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So, my SWG is shooting out some "dandruff" flakes, which get picked up daily by the Polaris. Is it possible, with a CH of 460 and a CSI at -0.2, that this process will lower the CH after time? Isn't the stuff my SWG is producing mostly Calcium? Seems that eventually, there would be less of it in the water if it's "condensing" and being removed. I guess time and testing will tell....

I have a rain arc and two deck jets which can be set to come on automatically. It makes a nice background noise for the backyard, so I like to run them a few hours each day (while filtering on low speed), but I'm concerned about the consequences. Other than raising PH and lowering TA, is there other stuff to watch closely? TIA for any assistance!

Units were set to US. Might have been a glitch, the numbers seem closer now, but not enough to bank on. All else being the same, (CH 460, TA 80, PH 7.4, WT 82) I now get -0.18 with the PoolCalc, and +0.1 with the Watergram. The WG only asks for those four factors, while the PoolCalc has more variables (like salt). Since I'm still getting some "calcium dandruff" discharging from the SWG, I'm thinking I need to believe the Taylor WG, and use it a a guideline to run a slightly negative CSI until the stuff clears (with PH 7.2 PoolCalc says -0.37 and WG says -0.1), or until I can do a partial drain & refill to get the CH down....

If I put CH 400 and TA 100 with PH 7.4 at 78 degrees temp, the Taylor Watergram from my test kit shows a CSI of +0.1, while the Pool Calculator shows +0.86 for the same numbers. Taylor says it's balanced while PC says "Danger, Will Robinson". One of these appears to be FUBAR. Any light?

But my test kit only goes to 3.0 ppm. How do I maintain and test for 4? So, if 4.0 with 80ppm CYA WILL prevent algae growth, does that mean I won't need to shock with supplemental chlorine?

What kind of filter? Does it have the collection manifold at the bottom or on top of the cartridges?

Did he supply you with a test kit? Did he add any stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) to the pool? As I understand it, the CYA level in a Salt system pool needs to be about 80 ppm in order to absorb and hold the chlorine put out by the generator. Regular chlorine tablets are "stabilized", meaning they have CYA mixed in. Your system will not generate any CYA, so it must be added manually. Take a sample (about a cup) of water to the local pool supply store and ask them to test your stabilizer level. I'd bet it's close to nothing, or the chlorine generator isn't working. If it is and you have stabilizer, the chlorine level should hold fairly well, even in the heat. If you need stabilizer, the pool store can sell you some, but don't get too much in there, as you'll have to drain and replace to bring the level down. It doesn't go away on a regular basis. Sometimes, builders aren't the best maintainers, at least in my limited experience. It sounds like you need a good pool guy, or a good education, which is usually easier to get than the former. IMHO, nobody's gonna care for your pool like it's their own, except you....