yanks1

Beachboy... I'm usually in same range (8-10 PSI) with in-ground pool with 25k gallons. We have an Anthony DE Filter (52 sq ft)& 1.5 HP pump. Enjoy the pool and good luck

We have an Anthony Pool & DE filter system.. While storing our DE Grid assembly in garage over winter, the small platic tube (looks like a mini-straw) snapped that is attached to the DE Grid. How important is that in regarding to filter operation?? It snapped off & I'm not sure how to replace. Thanks

thx for replies... But do you think I should run filter or Polaris cleaner longer while on vac??? I will ask our friends to replenish the floater with fresh 3" pucks 1/2 way through and also throw 2-3 bags of shock in after 1st week.

we have in-ground gunite pool that is ~ 25k gallons. Our filter turnover rate is about 4 hours. We will be gone for a solid 14-15 day vacation in late Aug. We will have friends stop by a few times to skim pool aand empty skimmer basket. We also have a Polaris 360 cleaner w/its own timer. Currently we run pool 6-7 hours during day and then 2 hours at nite between 2-4 am to keep the water moving a bit. Also, we run the Polaris 1.5 hrs during the day and 1 hour over-nite. Should we increase the time of both while away since the pool won't have a daily babysitter? Also, I normally use 2 one lb bags of HTH Shock per week. Should we blast it with 3-4 bags day before leaving??? Also, we have a chlorine floater for the 3" hockey pucks, usually use 2-3 pucks per week. Should I double that load as well??? thanks for any advice

waterbearer.. thanks we live in western Morris County out near Chester Our filer pressure has never exceeded 7-8 PSI and I guess it's why we never back wash it. We are buying a new pressure gauge this year to ensure its accurate. Why are the 3" Chlorine hockey pucks causing this problem? If I stop using them, how often and how about much liquid Chlorine or bleach should we use. Our pool is about 24k gallons... approx 42 x 20 and 8 ft on deep end thanks!!!

thx for initial replies... I must admit I usually only shock every other week, I will do weekly this year. and yes, I am not a pool fanatic and don't have time to check balance daily... below are my answers 1. we use the 3" hockey pucks that float in a boat around the pool 2. test water weekly and use paper test strips that do include free chl0rine & CYA and also calcium 3. we have an older Anthony gunite po0l that uses a DE Filter.. I admit we don't back wash during pool season (I guess we should??) 4. see # 2 above 5. yes, paper test strips... & thanks for advice on Taylor Test Kit and fyi: we own a condo in S. Carolina so pool is unattended for 1 week in late June & 2 weeks in late Aug I am going to make a few guesses about your pool and pool maintenance. 1) you are using trichlor tabs for chlorination 2) you really do not test your water and have no idea what your CYA (cyanuric acid, stabilizer) levels are as the season progresses 3) there is a good chance you either have a cartridge filteror bump type DE filter which will make the problem you have worse 4) you don't test your water and really have no idea what your daily Free Chlorine levels are and what your daily chlorine demand is, 5 You do not own a good test kit and rely on test strips, pool store testing, or an inexpensive kit that does not test CYA How many of these did I get right?

last year for 1st time in 5 summers we experienced some minor black & brown algae in Aug due to the warm summer, we live in northern NJ. What affordable algaecide can we use to help prevent this? We have an in-ground gunite pool. And do we have to start using treatment right away or wait for the warmer temps coming later in June & July?? thanks

thx for replies.. I am aware of the steps to close a pool, have a daughter's friend that works for pool company help me last few years. why are you saying the closing kits sold online can't do the trick?? Our pool is approx 25k gallons, the winter kits go up to 35k Gallons and they all include an algaecide, plus an absorber and slow release chlorine floater along w/3 bags of shock. Instead I should just go to store and buy extra potent bleach and buy 1-2 Gallons of pool anti-freeze for pipes & skimmer?

live in nothern NJ. Wondering, at about what water temp range is it ok to close in-ground pool. I hear if its too warm in the 70's not good to close until it consisently hits a lower temp, currently we're in the low 70's. Is approx closer to 60 degrees better temp to close? Also, do all of you here buy a winter closing kit they sell at all the online sites for $41-42 for large pool, or is this over-hyped and a waste of $$?? thanks on both

we have traditional cover that causes water to accumulate easily after rain & snow melt. I remove w/ Sump pump w/1.5" hose as needed every once in a while. Don't think the water dooes any harm sitting on the cover, but don't like to see standing water for too long Tom

hey Greg... Chemicals are up to date & I tested levels this past weekend we were thinking closing by mid-Nov... we live in Flanders in a wooded valley w/a stream running through, but still 700' above sea level, so it does get colder that most other parts of Morris County really glad our cover is on, cause leaves have been falling rapidly over past 10 days or so Tom

thanks for reply... also while being covered I'm running filter each day 2-2.5 hours.. it that too much or too little? Pool was completely vacuumed & cleaned before covering and cover only comes off the SAP area when we actually use it 1x week also to be safe, appox. how long into Nov can we go before worrying about any pipe freezing probelms? we live in western Morris County which tends to be about 7-8 degrees colder than Newark-NYC area thanks....

we covered our pool 2 weeks ago but still have the chemicals up to date & the filter on a few hours per day. Reason is we're using our intergrated SPA about 1x week, Would like to do this until early-mid November. We live in northern NJ. Any pitfalls to be aware of before formally closing the pool? thanks.... Tom

update... we also discoverd our heat exchange tubes were leaking therefore causing the heavy rust built up at bottom of heater. That said, the local company gave us decent estimate for new Raybak 336K BTU heater. Completely installed it for $2K... so all'n all not bad for a new quality heater and now we'll continue to use the SPA through October. I assume it's Ok to cover main pool but keep filter & chemicals running to keep leaves out while we enjoy our SPA over next 3-4 weeks? Then before closing pool remove cover and vacuum one last time. and thx again for the earlier comments & thoughts Tom

thanks to both repliers.... yes, the inside bottom area is heavily rusted. Issue is no way I want to spend $3K on a new heater for our pool. In fact, we may be selling our house in next year or two to head South. We use the heater no more than 9-10x per year. Pool is in 7-8 hours of Sun for most of pool season and we primarily use it for the connected SPA early & late in the year like now (which we do miss right now) perhaps we'll chance it and replace the board & see what happens.. Tom