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Found 9 results

  1. Hello. I am new to this forum and also a fairly new hot tub owner. I am having trouble with my chlorine levels, specifically getting rid of combined chlorine. For the first couple months I was just using non-chlorine shock and a chlorine floating thing. After doing more research I realized I should also be using chlorine shock. So last night my FC was at 5.0 and by CC was at 1.2. I threw in 2 Tbs of Dichlor (that’s how much the instructions said to use to get my FC to 12) and left the jets on and lid off for an hour. 12 hours later I tested it and my FC is at 11.2 and CC is 2.4. Why has my CC doubled? I thought the shock was supposed to kill it?
  2. Hello. I am new to this forum and also a fairly new hot tub owner. I am having trouble with my chlorine levels, specifically getting rid of combined chlorine. For the first couple months I was just using non-chlorine shock and a chlorine floating thing. After doing more research I realized I should also be using chlorine shock. So last night my FC was at 5.0 and by CC was at 1.2. I threw in 2 Tbs of Dichlor (that’s how much the instructions said to use to get my FC to 12) and left the jets on and lid off for an hour. 12 hours later I tested it and my FC is at 11.2 and CC is 2.4. Why has my CC doubled? I thought the shock was supposed to kill it?
  3. Water was perfect after opening in May. I maintained clear, sparkly water. Accidentally I used two different shocks (cal hypochlorite and trichloro s triazinetrione) 10 days ago and water is so cloudy with a tint of green. I've used clarifier and algae guard. PH and chlorine are within normal range. I am at a loss as to what to do to get the water back. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  4. Want to be taking a scientific approach to water maintenance within my knowledge base. I am using a 3-part bromine chemistry. Part 1 is 35% sodium bromide (liquid). For part 2 I was using Potassium MPS, but the powder available here is weak (32%), and I realized I could be using cheap bleach to wake up the bromine after each soak, so now using bleach. Part 3 is brominating tablets (65% bromine/ 28.95% chlorine) in a float feeder, which I set to keep levels constant around 4 ppm total bromine when the tub is not in use. I am checking the levels with a Taylor FAS-DPD bromine test kit. My question is whether I need to be hyperbrominating the tub weekly? I understand that, in chlorine chemistry, a distinction is needed between free available chlorine and combined chlorine. Combined chlorine is not an effective sanitizer. Therefore, regular superchlorination is needed to break down combined chlorine back into free available chlorine and the cycle continues. However, I understand that combined bromine compounds are effective sanitizers. Therefore, it sounds like hyperbromination is not needed. As well, a certain amount of fresh sodium bromide is added each week, and my understanding is that this should ensure new free bromine becomes available anyway. Hyperbromination puts the tub out of use for at least 24-36h while the levels come down again. This limits our use of the tub, and I do not want to do it if not really necessary, or do it less frequently. I am wondering if hyperbromination is really needed? And if it is needed, whether it is really needed once a week. ---- p.s. I have not used the word "shock" above because there is clear confusion online between products that raise chlorine/bromine levels (I bought shock at the store today and added a little shock to the tub after my soak) and hyperchlorination/hyperbromination (once a week I shock my tub up to 20 ppm bromine).
  5. We will be draining our spa soon since our TSD levels are already very high. We want to start over using the 3 steps bromine method and really hope it will work better for us. My question is that I currently have both MPS and chlorine shock. I know I can also use bleach, but since I have those bottles, I want to use them. When should I use the chlorine shock over the MPS one? Thank you!!
  6. I have a 1200L hot tub and use chlorine granuals as my sanitizer and non chlorine shock as well. Lets say I go to use the hot tub... The free chlorine level reads 2.5ppm. After use the free chlorine would be converted to combined chlorine and would read 0ppm free chlorine. So now do I... A) add the non chlorine shock first, then add chlorine granuals. or do I add chlorine granuals first then the non chlorine shock.
  7. Hey y'all! I am a frequent reader but decided to post my question here as other threads did not address it. Here it goes: I had an algae bloom post opening. I was travelling and FC level dropped. To me, it looked like mustard algae. I shocked it with 6 gallons of concentrated liquid chlorine. I also added algaecide because I had heard that mustard algae are quite resistant to chlorine. After a week of processing, brushing and vacuuming, I have no sign of algae but the pool is milky white. My test results are: Pool: 25k gallons FC: Still very high, literally off-the-chart Total Alk: 110 PH: 7.4 CYA: 60 Hardiness: 70 (going to increase after the pool clears) During the shocking process, I let my sand filter run 24x7 and back-washed twice a week. Pressure wouldn't build up too high, so didn't feel like I had to backwash more frequently. Since the pool was not clearing, I added this clarifier. I have to admit that I put 2x the amount I was supposed to, by mistake. It's been over two days now but it's not clear yet. I bought the house last year and am not sure when was the last time pool water and filter sand were replaced. My last option here is to flock it if it doesn't clear up. I decided to ask the group for input before moving forward. Thanks! This is how it looks today.
  8. I have a 375 gallon portable spa with an ozonator. The spa is about 3 years old and I have always used chlorine for shock about once a month combined with nature2, a built in ozonator, and MPS after each use and water changes every 4-6 months. The water is beautiful, pleasant, and clear. My problem is that my daughters and I get terrible eczema/rashes after using the spa. We always are sure to shower immediately after getting out and even apply a moisturizing cream like Eucerin after using the spa, but we still get itchy rashes after using the spa. After a long bath, no such rash occurs. I am a physician, and to all those who may suggest pseudomonas or something, this is not an infection, rather this is a hypersensitivity reaction of some sort like eczema, but is entirely associated with spa use. Also, I can promise that no one is urinating or defecating in the spa. My question is what people suggest to change up my routine? Should I put in less or less frequent MPS- probably do about 4 tablespoons after a use and we use the spa once a week? Switch to Bromine? Use only Chlorine for maintenance? Get rid of Nature2? Use some other chemicals? We love going in the spa, but the rashes after make it unpleasant. Thank you!
  9. Currently own (for the past 2 months) a 2012 Sundance 880 Optima with 24hr circulation pump, Clearray UV light, 2 part filtration system (inside / outside microclean filtration, with floating skimmer). Sanitation system is the 4 month Sunpurity silver ion cartridge / MPS / shock / UV light. TRUE OR FALSE (provide comments too! ): 1) Dealer recommends NOT running the jet pumps after adding shock / MPS / chemical as the circ pump is fine. However, Sundance manual says to run jet pumps for 15 - 20 minutes afterwards. 2) Dealer recommends keeping the spa cover open for 40 minutes after adding chlorine shock to protect the cover. 3) Dealer reommends keeping the spa cover open for 40 minutes after adding MPS Chlorine-Free Oxidizer to protect the cover. 4) Nature2 cartridges can replace the Sunpurity cartridges. 5) Hot tubs / spas are awesome!!! 6) My current sanitation system is correct for silver ion cartridges (per deal recommendations): Add MPS after each use, add shock about once a week. Use test strips before each use, add chemical if required after each use. Thanks!
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