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I recently came across a Caldera Hawaiian Spa from a friend who said it didnt heat anymore...thus the cheap price. When I filled it up...everything worked except the heat. I thought it was strange because the heater itself wasnt bad...it just wasnt getting a full 240V. I rapped on the relay and thats when I saw the spark. I removed the board and sure enough...the soldering joint had melted off the relay. When I researched the internet I found out that the Caldera and Hot Springs IQ2020 first generation boards werent powerful enough to handle the heater. I mean, just looking at the relays, they are rated for 20A open but only 10A closed. The far left relay was the only relay rated for the 16A it requires for the heater...that still leaves the other relays...underpowered. Referring to OHMS Law, we note that I = E/R. In laymons terms; if voltage goes up, current goes down and when voltage goes down, current goes up! On a day when demand for electricity spikes, this is when we see electronics like this exceed its rated amperage. Line voltage goes down and VOILA...your amperage spikes! The new generation of Heater Boards fixed this problem with beefier relays and better current carriers. However, for me, it would cost me $200 or more. I spent that just getting the GFCI's. I didnt have the money! That night, I had a dream...no, literally...I dreamt this. The main problem with these old boards wasnt that they were faulty...they just couldnt handle the load demands. So it hit me...why not have something ELSE bear the burden? So, I found an old water resistant plastic box, an old relay with a 240V coil, and some oven wire. The relay was from an old convection oven that was 3 phase...but voltage is voltage and hey, the coil wasnt three phase. This modification for these tubs will almost eliminate any load on the heater relay board...and still operate safely! Materials: Watertight project box, 240V Coil Contactor, 12 Gauge braided wire (solid is too hard to work with), Wire Nuts, Electrical Tape, and Replacement board relays (or solder). Step 1: You'll need a watertight project box big enough to fit in the control area...dont let it or any other wires rest on the heater pipe. Youll also need a contactor with a good amerage rating with a 240V coil...the coil being the most important element. Step 2: Replace the relays if they are burnt up (about $3 online and get the right ones, the models are listed on the part itself) or in my case, resolder the bad joint. Chances are, the rest of the board is ok but not in every case so dont quote me on this. This would involve the removal of the board if not already done. Step 3. Re-Install the board into the box and reinstall the wires BUT do not wire up the wires to the heater. Step 4. The terminals that formerly went directly to the heater from the board, will instead be routed to the coil on your relay (which should be mounted inside your box securely. Step 5. Split incoming power from the 20A GFCI via a wire nut so that the 240V is going to the circuit board but also 240V can be diverted to one side of your contactor. Dont try to pair up the wires on the board...it just wont work...use a wire nut. Step 6. I used oven wire but 12 GA should be fine. From the other side of your contactor, wire it to your heater (this would involve removing the old wires from the existing terminal block). The main key is to take the burden off the relays on the heater board...when installed, it will pull almost 0 current through the board...the current will come directly from the breaker but will still be controlled by the board. Step 7: Even after you have removed the old wires from the heater element, DO NOT LEAVE THE GROUND WIRE OFF...reinstall a ground from the heater to the board...especially when working with water, you can never have enough grounds! If the old board is still salvageable and you wired it correctly, she'll take right off! Tape up all loose wires, bundle wires as well as possible, and install in an area as far away from water as possible. I hope this saved you a few hundred bucks! It worked well for me and it is still safe! The tub is well out of warranty anyways. If you liked this article, tell me about it! Thanks for reading...and happy soaking!