ColoradoJohn
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Posts posted by ColoradoJohn
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11 hours ago, dashmer said:
Sorry, I dont know anything about the clear blue ionizer or the @ease chlorinator, but wouldn't expect any issues with the ionizer and the dichlor/bleach method.
Are your test results on your new water or are they pre-draining? If on the new water, you are going to want to get your TA down in the 60-70 range for bleach. Where your pH is low now, you should aerate (if you can with a cedar tub) to get that up into the 7.2-7.5 range before dropping the TA. If your CYA is below 20 you should use dichlor until you are into the 20-30 range. Your FC is low and your water should be shocked to get rid of that CC.
Thanks Dashmer. Those readings were before I dumped and refilled. Refilled yesterday and ran the circulation pump and turned on the ionizer.
Just tested:
pH - 7.8
TA - 120
So sounds like I need to lower my pH (w/ pH reducer) and lower my TA.
Questions:
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What is the preferred way to lower TA? My pH reducer contains sodium bisulfate, will that do?
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I can’t seem to find any of the links that Nitro references in his original post - looking for the TA down guide and the full dichlor/bleach method guide - a point in the right direction is appreciated)
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You mentioned aerating to affect pH. I don’t have aerating jets, just a circulation pump/filter. Does that do the trick?
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At what point should I concern myself with the copper level referenced in the ionizer manual (it says, “maintain chlorine or bromine at 2.3ppm unitl copper is at 0.2ppm-0.4ppm”)
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Will you continue to help me even though I’m completely clueless? If yes, thank you!
I really appreciate your time and feedback.
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New to cedar tubs. On my third refill and can't get it right. Seems like dichlor/bleach method is the way to go but I installed a clear blue mineral ionizer first. Do I scrap the ionizer or will it compliment the method? Any feedback is welcome.
Tried the @ease chlorinator with zero success. Doesn't register any chlorine. Ionizer has been turned off per my local spa guys recommendation. But he also swore the @ease thing was great for cedar tubs so..
just got a TF100 test kit.
drained because of so much tannin and test results of:
FC .5
CC .5
TC 1
Calcium hardness 250
TA 130
CYA couldn't read, <20
PH 6.8
Dichlor/bleach Method In A Nutshell
in Hot Tub Water Chemistry
Posted
Thanks @waterbear . I used the pH down (sodium bisulfite) that I have and it worked to lower TA. I made a venturi aerator that I'm pretty proud of and it did a good job aerating to raise pH.
Currently:
TA 60 ( I think- see my 2nd question below)
pH 7.5
1. Is the dichlor/bleach method perfectly adapted for cedar tubs is there anything I need to do differently?
2. Reading TA- test kit instructions say you measure when it turns to red. My solution goes from green to clear to pink to red (each separated by one drop). Do I take my measurement when it goes from clear to pink or do I add another drop to make it properly red?
3. Does temperature affect of the chemical readings? I only heat my (wood fired) tub when I want to use it.
4. How many days can I spend adjusting pH and TA before I have to sanitize? In other words, is it okay if it takes me 4 days before getting TA and pH adjusted so that I can proceed to the next steps?
5. Borates = Borax? (at least for this purpose)
Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help me out.