prawny
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Posts
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Posts posted by prawny
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Hi,
Use a little 12% bleach to bring your free cl2 levels and ph up a bit. Your combined Cl is a bit high considering you haven't even been using it and the ph is a touch low for most people. Otherwise it looked pretty good.
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The CDC make the distinction between hard and soft stool for a few reasons. First to scoop a solid is easy and the total surface area exposed to the pool is low. Secondly they reason that a person having a diarrhea incident in the pool is much more likely to be ill. That is why they call for the high PPm Cl2 burn time after a loose stool incident. Most municipal pools that have a warm tot pool will keep their chlorine levels higher in there knowing the chances of an incident are high. That way it is easy to kick the Cl level a bit higher when it becomes necessary.
The same principal applies to the urine issue as the ammonia in it readily bonds to your free chlorine and makes combined Cl. If the kids will be peeing in there alot then you need to keep free Cl higher and even perhaps shock more regularly if it becomes necessary.
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Please, please!!! Ask a local pool company for some advise as you so really need it. The chemicals you are using are using... so asking for trouble in the long run. As for shutting down the pool there are local considerations that are hard for bloggers to address. Sorry for the lack of answers but its from lack of information.
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Why are you planning on putting a Uv system on your home pool? Usually this is used a secondary oxidizer when your chlorine (ie primary) isn't scaled to your current requirements. That's not to say that they don't work great but it's hard to see a reason to need one when your building the pool from the ground up. Just take a close consideration of your maximum future requirements that will be imposed on the pool and design from there.
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Post your test result numbers so people have a starting point to give advise. Plus if you are using bromine you aren't testing for free chlorine but the bromine equivalent so make sure you are using the test properly.
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Electronic testing is a complete waste of time for backyard users as most probe tips as designed for prolonged use after calibration. Read in a laboratory testing other things than your pool water. Most backyard users will get the best results using drop tests and buying small amounts so that the reagents stay fresh. Yes that will increase the cost of reagent bit is accurate and a lot less hassle than than drying out your probe tip for the ?? time. + a little saline water from the drugstore works great in the tip keeping them working a little longer, if you go that way.
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That is a very simplistic approach in the long run. The bleach will take care of most issues but what about it being Ph 13? You don't mention him worrying about the Ph rising due to not adding acid to keep it in range. Once the Ph rises past 7.5+ the bleach will start to loose its potency. You will need a test kit that can track Chlorine, PH, CC. TA and CH in the log run. I use Taylor 2005 but there are many options available.
Good Luck
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Hi Sarah,
If you have a test kit you should post all your readings including the calcium in your pool and a plain glass of water from your tap. If you have really hard water and have shocked using a calcium hypochlorite type product you could easily have caused the milky water problem. Post your results so we have something to work with.
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Another option out there is a chemical "top coat" that will stop evaporation from your pool. It goes by the name "Heat Saver" in Canada but I'm not sure about the cost in the US.
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weak and a load of bs to boot
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Hi Evans,
If your salt systems can't keep free Cl2 up during high demand points on your pool then you will require a shock occasionally. You will find that out soon by regular testing of the water and hopefully keeping a log of the results ie. CCl2
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[quote name='Vandangler' date='Jun 4 2007, 10:00 AM'
Hi Vandangler,
Despite the claims of many companies you will always rely on at least some chlorine in your water as well as testing somewhat regularly. If your ozone system functions well then issues will be a minimum but to trust the water with no residual in it is asking for trouble. Beware of anyone that promises to fix your water with no issues, all pools require some looking after and a little common sense. I think you are better off with alot of advise in this forum and going with tried and true products.
Good Luck
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The Canadian Dist is Lowery and Assoc. and your right they only sell to their dealers in Canada. I'm not sure about Quebec but a few other dealers are...
BC: DB Perks and Associates
AB: Cl Marketing
ON: Aquam + others as there is tight competition
You should buy the kit in Canada as the shipping and brokerage from the US will easily push the price higher than what can be found locally.
Online Shop Recommendation Bromine Shock
in Hot Tub Water Chemistry
Posted
Why not try a local pool shop as that way you can look at the chemical components on the pail at the store??? They are all listed on the side. Plus most of this stuff travels as a dangerous good so you don't want to be shipping it across the country from a $ perspective.