poollady
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Posts posted by poollady
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Would you be interested in selling this type of pool again, NW? We would be glad to send you dealer info if you are interested. We are in NE OH
I am mainly a service business now, selling very few pools, and have a hard time selling the $3000.00 pools, so I doubt I could sell any of these that cost 3-4 times that. SO I guess no, I am not interested. Thanks anyway.
I think you would be surprised at how little these Homestead pools cost. They retail for less than in grounds and waaaaaaaaaaay less than $30,000! For more info, email me at enterprise1826@neo.rr.com
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I installed a dozen or so Olympic pools in my area when I worked for another dealer 16-20 years ago. As far as I know, they are all still up and running, I service several of them still today.
Would you be interested in selling this type of pool again, NW? We would be glad to send you dealer info if you are interested. We are in NE OH
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I have some dry chemicals which are 5-10 years old. What is the shelf life of:
total alkalinity increaser (sodium hydrogen carbonate)
sodium bromide
bio guard oxy-sheen( potassium monopersulfate 42.8%)
leisure time renew (potassium peroxymonosulfate 32.18%)
sodium bicarbonate
Also are potassium monopersulfate and
potassium peroxymonosulfate equivalent for use as a shock in a 2 part bromine tub (reserve/renew).
Thanks for any help.
I wish my high school chemistry teacher had warned me to pay more attention because I would need it in 40 years for my spa....
Have they been opened? If they have, I would throw them out. If not, they are probably still OK
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I am shocking my bromine tub once a week by adding 6 tsp of brominating concentrate (sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione 82.5% and sodium bromide 14.7%) per instructions. The tub is 302 gallons.
I did this Sunday night. It's now Tuesday night, and the bromine strip is still showing 10 ppm of bromine. Is that right? You shock your tub once a week, then you can't use it for two more days?
I didn't think that I would only get five days a week usage out of my tub when I bought it. Unless of course I'm doing something wrong (not surprising since I never got chemistry instructions from my dealer). Am I using the wrong chemical to shock? Should I use Chlorox bleach, or MPS?
Thanks,
Jim
Try shocking with non-chlorine shock (monopersulfate)
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My Hot Springs Vanguard was delivered and setup this past weekend and I have a question. What can I put in the water to keep the brown ring from forming at the water line? I'm using well water.
If you are using well water, you probably have metals in the water. So you will need to use Metal Out.
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Probably costs less than $300 a month to heat
If he got a better controller more jets and a good pump.. and insulated the tub with sprayfoam,, it wouldnt be half bad..Kind of like a Master Spa.
It looks like he has a regular hot tub cover, that must have cost him a couple of hunded dollars.........or maybe he made his own somehow........???
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I commend you moderators for doing all you can!
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Would like to know how many of these pools are out there...]
Do you mean Olympic Brand pools or pools like that?
yes poollady....we talked about the wood wall pools at the beginning of summer [ SH pools,Col,Oh]
Probably thousands. We've been selling our own brand (Homestead) since 1986, and we sold Olympic brand for 5 or 6 years before that. Lots of other dealers (including Lighthouse) sold Olympic Pools for many years before they went out of business in the early 90's.
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Would like to know how many of these pools are out there...]
Do you mean Olympic Brand pools or pools like that?
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The price of EVERYTHING is negotiable..heck, my 16 year old son talked a shoe salesmen at the mall down in price (I was was stunned, amazed, and rather proud ). Every dealer is an individual and is going to be different. Some may say "ok", others may throw you out of their store.
Probably the best way to do it is to ask if there's a discount for cash. Or ask if they have any tubs in stock or floor models they want to move.
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Running a fountain (Google "pool fountain") will cool the water in the spray since some of it evaporates and this water cools the pool. It does work, but it's not particularly efficient and, of course, you will lose some water this way which will then be auto-filled. Also, the splashing/aeration of the water will tend to make the pH rise.
Running the pool water through solar panels at night (as suggested by Pool Clown) is quite effective, but of course you have to have solar panels to do that.
Cool off the pool??? Move to Ohio, lol, we NEVER have that problem here!
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Hi i have a fiberclass pool and my drian cover came off can anyone tell me the strongest cement i can use to put it back securley,? also before itcame off my barrcuder cleaner would also get stuck on top of the drain coverI would have to shut off the pump and pull the the cleaner away. Thanks Harvey
Harvey,
The drain cover should be replaced. It's apparent the method to hold the cover in place has been comprimised. Check with you pool dealer and get a new cover and screw set and replace that cover immediately.
You may have a suction entrapment issue and should get that cover replacced.
Main drains scare the crap out of me! You read about people (children in particular) getting trapped in the drain - it's just horrific!
There are better ways to circulate the water in the pool without the necessity of the main drain. -
I have a Hayward 1200 cartidge filter. I have an old cartridge that works as expected. I purchased a new cartridge at the beginning of the season. It behaves differently. The new cartridge will not push air out of the filter. I have to open the filter vent. The pressure on in the filter with this cartridge never seems to rise above 6. The old one starts at 6 and goes upto 14 then I clean it.
When I run the filter with the new cartridge, it appears that the off-line chlorinator does not feed, but it works fine with the old one.
The old cartridge does not have a name on it. The new one is a Unicell.
Any thoughts?
TIA
Will
It is quite possible that you have two filters with a different square foot rating. Hayward tech specs says for c1200 filter the cartridge is 120 sq ft
Unicel website says the replacement should be C-8412. for a Hayward 1200 series filter.
If they have a different sq ft rating this will affect water flow through the system.
Next time try replacing your filter with a Pleatco brand cartridge. If you go to their website Pleatco.com you will see that the core of the Pleatco filter has multiple slits in it allowing for better flow, as compared to the PVC pipe with a few holes drilled into it like the Unicel and other brands. I'm not saying it will solve you problem completely, but it has to make a difference.
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Hi,
I am deciding on purchasing a spa, never had one before. My desire is to get a sanitizing system which will not dry out the skin. We live in extreme cold and dry climate in winter, and there is nothing worse than the feel of dryness and itchiness of the skin after using a spa. What system should I get with me spa: bromine tablets, bromine generator, or salt water system (chlorine generation from salt water), or is there anything else? The information out there is biased (sellers of chemicals speak badly about the automated systems such as the bromine generator or the salt water system) depending on who sells what. Please help!
Peter in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
I would go with a non-chlorine system like Pristine Blue or another comparable system. Stay away from chlorine or bromine if you can. Just my humble opinion.
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What criteria do you use to determine what brand you are going to invest in and put on your floor?
Construction first. Quality of the cabinet, how tight it seals up, how acrylic is formed and backed and supported. Insulation. We beleive in the dead air space as long as they use quality insulation and enough of it. Balboa controls rather than gecko....waterway or pentair jets rather than custom molded or others, waterway pumps, and high quality cover. Been in buisness at least 20 years and has proven they back their service.
These are a few of the things we look for.
Yes, good support from the manufacturer is most important.
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See no one has offered any help yet so I am going to make a suggestion. I am not a Spa owner yet, but have an idea from other experiences. Wash the cover well. Spray down with Lycol air freshener and let set open. I would check if there is a sealant or conditioner for the matterial on your cover and apply a coat if available.
Pristine Blue makes a product called Pristine Mist that eliminates odor from the cover. See if you dealer carries a similar product or order it at Pristineblue.com
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Is it possible to get the temp up over 104 in the newer tubs?
Sometimes I like it a little hotter.
I see they all pretty much max out at 104.
When they get over 104, they will shut off the heater.
Not that I would want to toy around with the electronics or anything, especially all this newfangled computer-contolled stuff - but are people able to bypass this?
Why would you want it hotter than 104? It's not good for you and you won't be able to stay in the tub for any length of time. Right around 100 is just right for most people.
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My dad and I notice that when I clean out the cartridge filter the water seems to go cloudy for a little while. Does the dirt and oil contained in a slightly dirty filter aid in further cleaning of the water by effectively increasing the density of the mesh? Or is this the work of some other phenomenon?
(20,000 in ground vinyl lined pool, using dichlor)
You want some dirt in the filter to filter out other dirt. So don't be cleaning out the cartridge too often.
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I got the same info from my pool guys. Heat pumps are fine when working with small differences between air temp and water temp. If you want larger differences (warm pool on a cold day) go with the fired heater.
A heat pump will pay for itself in gas savings in the first two years. It will work in temps as low as 50 degrees. If you want to swim when the weather is colder than that................well I wouldn't want to anyway.
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Why oh Why are you customers so fussy about liner patterns? Excuse me if I'm ranting here. But we've been in business for over 45 years and in all that time I still can't figure out why people are so fussy about the liner patterns. I just had a customer call me who said "It doesn't match my house!" Well, sorry, but it's not a decorative item, it's a FUNCTIONAL item
When we first started in business you got a liner in guess what color? Aqua. Then they came out with: BLUE! Then they came with a TILE BORDER! WOW!!! Now it's gotten out of control with literally hundreds of patterns to choose from.
If you talk to a person who's had a pool for a long time, they will tell you - it's no big deal. As long as it holds water and doesn't leak - who cares?
Well apparently some people do!
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Hey everyone. I'm sure some of you may have taken notice to my sporadic postings on this site and TFP. Yet, I've as of yet not taken the time to properly introduce myself to you all. My name's Ashley and I'm a salesman for a pool and spa business based out of Southern Louisiana. Most of my posting has centered around SWGs and what I was beginning to see as a problem in pools utilizing an SWG: rust, cost and failure rate. I'm aware that galvanic corrosion and traditional corrosion are two separate processes and I understand the chemistry behind it. So I do believe that its possible to protect everything below the water line in a properly balanced pool utilizing a properly functioning SWG. Most of the sales seem to center around the use of zinc sacrificial weights placed in your skimmer to protect those precious metal components. Yet, what I'm seeing, and what I've heard from another technician at The Pool Tool Co. is that those disks are about 25% effective as preventing corrosion. What was offered as a substitute was an inline anode that can be bonded into the pool, if required. The cost is higher than an anode: $15 as opposed to $109, respectively. The weight should be replaced every six months for optimum effectiveness but the in-line anode can last up to a year-and-a-half. You replace the anode when about 1/2 deteriorated and replace with an $25 replacement anode. The protection offered vs the higher cost appear to balance one another out so I recommend the in-line anode more powerfully in my sales presentation. The problem really arises around the splash-out zone. Top rails (if metal), decking (concrete, wood, stone, etc.), surrounding lawn furniture, etc., need to be sprayed down daily when in use and I recommend sealing the decking at least once a year. And this is the thing: its my job as a salesman to present them with ALL the facts concerning SWGs and if, in the end, they decide to go with that type of sanitizing regimen, it's my job to provide them with a means to a desired end. In an ideal world, it would be smooth sailing and proper water chemistry as provided by my store. I want to know: What are you guys' impressions, straight-up, on SWGs and their viability as a stable, money-saving, easier-to-maintain alternative to chlorine, and the many competing effective alternatives? We're currently using the CompuPool CPSC series SWGs. We have, in the past, burned through Ecomatic and AquaTrol. Not quite sure what happened with AquaTrol but Ecomatic, after having a good system the first year, seeming as if to cut costs by downgrading to a 12 gauge wire when it should have been an 8, on the ground wire to the 2ndary plug underneath which normally would go to your pump. The 12 gauge wire couldn't handle the load and would burn out and sometimes melt the inside of the case. CompuPool, on the other hand, has been a problem from the beginning. The only thing going for this system, in my opinion, is that is has a integrated timer. I would say a good 80% of my units sold are coming back for warranty issues and are being replaced sometimes 3 and 4 times, as of yet. My hunch is that the fuses, 3.15 are too small for the load and we need to upgrade to a 5. We've tried that and it seems to solve the problem if only for a little while, if at all. As well, customers are reporting that their timer settings are changing and modifying themselves on their own accord! As of yet, those reports are unverified. So with me, it comes down to quality and cost effectiveness. CompuPool isn't proving itself with its quality and I have to question the cost effectiveness. My system retails as right around $900. Once you figure in the salt required to get the system up and operational, and your sacrificial anode system, whether that be weight or in-line, you'd be right at around $1184. I figure the average customer spends about $60 a month on chemical regimen. At best, you'll still be looking at $20 at least once you factor in possible additions of salt and your weekly maintenance regimen. So saving $40 a month, it would take you 2.5 years, if you run your pool all year round to pay off your system and actually start to see some headway chemically / financially! Around here, of course, no one runs their pool year-round. So in our case, it would take 5 years to pay off your system chemically. Well, at 3 years your cell itself runs out of warranty and most cells seem to peek at 3-5 years even with scheduled cleanings. So, figuring in approx. $500 to replace the cell, it'll now take you yet another year to break even. So is that cost advantage really there? And is it really any easier to maintain? Let the jury decide but I have my opinion. Regardless, I don't recommend salt systems on pools anymore. Again, I have a huddle meeting with the sales rep from CompuPool flying in from Australia at 9 AM tomorrow morning. I have my opinions and data gathered from a semi-thorough investigation of the various postings on both sites but I'd like you regular posters' off-the-cuff impressions and opinions on SWGS and the topics I've covered above. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated before I face off with this guy in the morning. He's there to give us a tech demo of the system so I'm anxious to see that
Hello Ashley,
I for one have NEVER been sold on a SWG. Although some customers say they love it and wouldn't want to go back to chlorine, my trepidation has been just what you have said. My opinion is if you want to get away from using chlorine or bromine, go with a NON chlorine system like Pristine Blue. Just my humble opinion.
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so i looked at a spa place near my house and they carry PDC spas, the pump in ouside under the steps. what i like is a 7 person spa is only 6 feet 9 in square rather than 8 feet square. Does anyone have one or an opinion on it?? thanks in advance.
PDC is a good brand. They are made in Williamsport, PA. Family owned company. Been around for a long time. Pumps being built on the outside of the tub give your several advantages: 1. Easier to service. 2. Quite because it is not right underneath you when you're in the tub. 3. Comes with a nice step to get in and out.
7 persons or not, it's still a nice tub for the money. What model were you looking at?
#2 I meant quiet.
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so i looked at a spa place near my house and they carry PDC spas, the pump in ouside under the steps. what i like is a 7 person spa is only 6 feet 9 in square rather than 8 feet square. Does anyone have one or an opinion on it?? thanks in advance.
PDC is a good brand. They are made in Williamsport, PA. Family owned company. Been around for a long time. Pumps being built on the outside of the tub give your several advantages: 1. Easier to service. 2. Quite because it is not right underneath you when you're in the tub. 3. Comes with a nice step to get in and out.
7 persons or not, it's still a nice tub for the money. What model were you looking at?
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Since you have taken the liner out of the box and put it in the pool I would highly doubt you can return it.
Especially since you already patched it. However, the place you patched is TWICE as strong now, so don't worry about it. Just enjoy the pool.
Liquid Solar Blanket?
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
We sell the Solar Fish. Most of the customers who use them say they DO work. And this is NE Ohio. We reccommend using them along with a Solar Cover. The benefit is that instead of taking the Solar Cover off and on several times a day, you can leave it off all day and just put it on at night.