hottubdan
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Posts posted by hottubdan
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Hi,
Someone has a Hot Springs Grandee model they're saying is from 2005 on Craigs List (asking $3,800 and they will move it--not sure I'd take them up on it, may have it moved professionally). Anyways, I was finally able to get the serial number from the guy, as I understand you can tell when they were manufactured by that. Here it is: GG1h1504.
Could someone please tell me how old this is and approximately what it's worth? He was starting out well over $4,000, then dropped to $4,000 and is now offering it at $3,800 including moving it for us.
We haven't looked at it yet or wet tested it yet (we would definitely do this first), but he's been a bit evasive, so I wanted to see if the serial number matches up with what he's telling me on how old it is (since he didn't buy it from a dealer).
Thanks for any answers!!
I think it is '06
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As for the whole topic of this thread, I think $10,500 sounds pretty high to me for a Caldera Tahitian. I would probably offer 6500-7500 if that is the spa you like. Caldera is a good spa and the dealer is close. In my opinion, I think you are paying for a name more so than features, but that is your call. Way too many small "euro" jets and underpowered pumps for me. I would never own a full-foam hot tub, especially if it still uses urethane foam. Also, an air blower is useless in my opinion. It cools off the water, even if they say it is heated. You better go with the 50 amp version if you do decide on this unit, otherwise your pumps and heater will not run when you are using the spa. That is the most important time for them to work together!
Well I don't know you and "Term" personally, but your opinion on Master really doesn't matter. You are entitled to your opinion, but the FACT is that Master Spas won the Torch Award from the BBB for Marketplace Ethics, is highly endorsed by SpaSearch.org as number 1 in customer satisfaction, has won the Inspire Award, as handed out by the hot tub industry, plus MANY more. You will forgive me if I put more credence in their opinions versus a couple of competitor's opinions.
Since most major manufacturers use full foam/urethane foam, I think that shows your credibility. Hot Spring/Caldera, D1, Marquis, Sundance/Jacuzzi...
Recommending 50 amp version is an absurd recommendation. That is the way it comes.
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I had the service guys out today. It had them baffled for a while too. They tried a new top side unit which didn't help anything. They tried a few other things which didn't work either and then opened the mother board up and found ants had gotten in and he thinks that they may have shorted the mother board. Now my mother board is getting sent down to Melbourne and IF the man down there can fix it, it will be $450 (wondeful)
plus labor and call out fee. Yay again And this is the GOOD scenario, if he can't fix it then i'm up for $1100 for a brand new board. *Sighing* So yeh, that's what happened!I guess my prices will be going up over the next few weeks for my jobs that i do. 
To find the ants in the mother board after swapping out the top side controls does not sound like the best diagnosing. $1100 for a mother board sounds high.
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No Brian 1973 not same service co.
why are you guys so threatened by the www.hottubbroker.com website.
Those prices seem about right.
Nobody is threatened by the laughable site. When you say those prices seem about right, what do you base it on? They claiim it is based on interviews and reviews. Show me the source material. I don't believe there is any.
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If you are going to buy used, look at Hot Spring, Sundance, D1... Should be able to do well for $4K.
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lol do you write scripts for the traveling circus?
Actually, I cleaned up the spelling a bit. Utterly atrocious grammar is foisted upon anyone who happens to run across the original text. It is apparently written to appeal to a certain demographic (middle school graduates).
3 DAYS ONLY....DON'T MISS OUT OR I'LL KISS A PIG!!!!
PLEASE POST PICS OF THE PIG KISS.
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I said he was crazy, but figured I get your thoughts!
I agree, he's crazy.
What does his water look like?
Acid water can be crystal clear. What does his skin look like?
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Im guessig the reason they asked for a cc up front is because 4/5 flo (fl1) error messages are caused by a dirty filter, and of course thats not covered by warranty. Your filter is the first suspect, remember a filter can look ok and still be clogged with minerals. I would try removing the filter and seeing if the pump/jet pressure seems to be improved, if thats the case it may be time for a new filter or a good acid based filter clean soak. If the jets seem ok with the filter in and out, and you still get fl1 then you are lookin a a new pressure switch and that would be covered by your 3 year warranty.
Hope that helps
That makes sense on one level but I guess I was expecting my dealer to say... check/clean your filter and let us know if that fixes the problem. I get the impression they were looking forward to charging me a trip charge, only to come down and clean the filter for me.
Twice this has happened and it appears that both times removing and cleaning the filter fixed the problem (at least temporarily). I just hosed them off. I plan on doing an overnight soaking sometime soon to see if that resolves the problem for a while. Like I mentioned earlier, some additional bathers probably is what pushed things over the edge. Judging from the amount of foaming that occurred, I wonder is excessive foaming can contribute to the problem if that is only and indicator of new/more bathers.
thanks
Ken
Buy a 2nd filter and rotate them.
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Thanks everybody for your input. Being a novice to the "spa world" I had no idea that the passionate runs so deep. I did try and contact my local Master Spa dealer in the San Franciso Bay area only to find they have closed. This totally ontradicts what the factory sales people represented at the time of my purchase. I am getting a little antsy and think I might cancel the transaction. I have started to research some of manufacturers suggested in some of the posts and realize that the features and claims made by the various brands are as vast as my choices. My primary objective is to purchase a spa that will help relieve some of the constant pain my husband experiences due to his severe spinal condition. I relaize that in my haste to provide him some relief I may have made a ill adbised purchase. I think the Master Spa is a good spa but I have nothing to compare it to. I'm not ruling out the Master Spa I just think I need to rule more options in. Keep the suggestions comming I have until midnight tomorrow to cancel my transaction.
So, what did you do?
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Trying to make my final descision on which spa to get, I will wet test this week. I hear you can't compare these two but what will I be missing if I get the vista. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Both are well thought of and you should be happy with either but did you wet test them. That should help you decide if one (or both) seem right for you. Factor in wet test results, the dealership itself (how long in spa world, how long with this brand, do they service, etc.), cost/what kind of deal you think you're getting, etc.
I will do a wet test tomorrow. Anyone out there have recent quotes on these? I'm getting quotes in the range of vista = 10,800, amore = 15,000.
does this sound right?
sounds to me like you will be missing $5K if you get the Amore.
I'd like to know how much more spa you would get for 5K more money!! I vote Vista.
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The Hot Spring and Sundance dealers in the bay area have been around a long time. Others come and go. Check out those 2 and you should be done with your research.
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I was going to suggest a website...but thermospassucks.com is already taken...odd
epinions.com
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Hi
I have an Arctic Spa.It's been working perfectly for a year. Yesterday there was an 'Err' message on the main display and pushing any of the buttons wouldnt work so i flicked the GFC off. I waited a few minutes, turned it back on and NOTHING.....the display is empty and pushing any of the buttons doesn't do anything. I left it OFF over night and through today, i just turned the GFC back on and the pumps turned on and the water was flowing but again the display is completely empty i can't see the temp or pump indicators or anything and pushing the buttons does nothing so i had to turn it off from the GFC again. Does anybody have any ideas?!
Help please
Gus
Assuming it is a year old, call for service?
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If it has a power and ready light are either on or flashing?
Is it 110V spa - plugged into a receptacle? If so is the light on the GFI at the end of the cord? Hit reset on the GFI.
If it's a 220V spa check the 2 breakers in the sub-panel.
Do you have a serial number so we can tell the year?
Those spas usually don't screw up much if powered and empty. The circulation pump may be bad.
The pump was working fine before... that's what worries me. The reset button on the GFI has no effect whatsoever... :/ We tried that several times. The GFI seems to have a faint light on, according to my roommate.
I will check and tell you if it's 110 or 220. I can look for a serial as well.
Thank you so much for the reply! I will report back ASAP.
If the GFI is at the end of the plug, it is 110v.
I suggest calling your local Hot Spring dealer. They should know how to diagnose and repair. If you don't know who your dealer is go to www.hotspring.com
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The vanguard is a good spa but these points are not worth the extra 5 grand...
Here’s what I like about the Vanguard:• Excellent dealer sales/service relationshipthere are lots of great companies out there with spot on back up and service
• The controller is very well designed: simple but powerful with second remote panel on the opposite side for the user to control the jets and lightingTruth is it is a good controller, although it has its share of issues and is no better than the balboa controls, except the remote panel which will fail within the year... it is the weak spot of most controllers and particular to Hotsprings... we change scads of them.
• The entire design and construction has a feeling of qualityThey are well built spas and of a good quality except the skirt material witch is kind of cheesy compared to the high end foam resin infinity cabinets...
• Bottom drain to get ALL the water outfloor drains are a thing of the past and a bad design feature.
1 They are the most likely place for a fault because they are stepped on.
2 They leave plumbing against the ground which is a huge heat loss area. the heat loss through the floors of spas is only recently being addressed, conduction heat loss is massive as the construction and house building industries has discovered and addressed.
3 The only advantage is the draining issue which 10 years ago was a valid argument but now adays everyone has a shop vac, (or you can buy one at Costco for $49.95... certainly not a good trade off anymore...
• 6,000 kW titanium heaterAvailable on most spas at 5 k less
• Relatively quietyep good quite operation as is any circ pump system on even the cheapest spas
• Water chemistry stays perfect using the recommended HS treatmentsthere are many great water quality systems and they have very little to do with the spa...
• Was able to negotiate a good priceWow like 8 k or so what is about what it is worth???
Extra 5K vs. what? Are you implying you can get equal quality for 4 to 5K? Ridiculous!
The Auxilary panel issues are done. It most likely will not fail. If Spa God is changing scads of them, they are older spas.
Cheesy cabinet...your opinion.
Bottom drain does not have plumbing against the ground. A false statement. It is fully foamed. If it had massive heat loss we would see massive electric bills, which we do not. It is far easier to drain than with a shop vac.
Titanium heaters are not available on cheap spas as far as I know.
Cheapest spas do not use circ pumps.
Sorry Spa God. Your bias is showing.
Disclaimer...I am a Hot Spring dealer, as if you couldn't tell.
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The real question is why a double lounger. Most newbies think they want a lounge. All well and good. We find most second time buyers choose to get no lounge. Forums always advise a wet test.
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I recently purchased a home with an above ground jacuzzi. For some reason, I can not get the cover off of the filter holder to remove/clean the filter. The cover has a threaded locking cap over it which I can get off without any issues. After that though, the filter cover will not come off no matter how hard I pull on it (or for that matter how much I twist it). I have tried to remove the filter cover both with the jacuzzi filled and drained. The filter cap does have a screwed in plug as part of the handle which I have also left open while trying to open the cover. The jacuzzi was manufactured by Clark Manufacturing (no date and no model number). Any suggestions on what I am missing that is preventing me from opening the cover are appreciated.
Is there a pressure release valve on the cap?
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As a first time spa buyer there are many, many conflicting statements and claims. As a general rule, my opinion is that most have some basis in fact but all spa dealers are obviously trying to push their own product. Me too, I am part of the Atera AnyTemp Spa Team.
I am not sure why you would not want a support structure for your spa. The critical reason for this is that acrylic is a rigid product that does not like movement. Movement or lack of proper support to your spa shell WILL over time result in cracks. This is why Atera AnyTemp Spas use 2x4 pressure treated lumber for our structural support system. We reinforce the structural stability of our spa with a solid support base pad under the footwell of the spa (most vulnerable due to weight pressure) made of wood chips and recycled resins. Your shell will never experience the instability that inevitabily results with a lesser structure.
Your choice of a circulation pump is good for several reasons. In addition to 24 hour filtration it is also more economical to run versus a low speed on a large therapy pump. It is also generally much quieter which can be attractive if the spa is placed close to your bedroom windows. Be very careful to keep your filters clean, dirty or clogged filters can result in costly repairs if water flow is restricted.
The main reason for the use of an ozone system is to reduce the need for chlorine or bromine. There is another option that is healthier and less expensive than chlorine or bromine and eliminates the need to spend the money on an ozonator. We recommend the use of an all natural, hypoalergenic, non-toxic enzyme. Atera's Choice Water Treatment provides this. Another benefit to the use of an enzyme system is that it requires much less maintenance and testing. Basically a quick weekly treatment of a few drops of this product along with Ph testing is all that is required. Draining and refilling is necessary only one yearly so water savings are significant (chlorine or bromine will require draining about every 3 months).
No foam will definately create leaks over time if the plumbing is not locked in place. The torque created by turning pumps on and off will cause something to come loose, likely sooner rather than later. You are correct that full foam makes it difficult to find and repair leaks and can be a very time consuming process. Additionally, foam is rarely if ever replaced in the field.
As far as jet packs, Atera AnyTemp Spas are built with full cycle therapy. Each individual seat in all spa models has a specific purpose. By sitting in all seats during your hydrotherapy session, you will receive a full body massage. If you have speciific needs for additional therapy, say on your lower back, simply spend more time in that seat. Additionally, jets in the Atera AnyTemp Spa are interchangeable. If you want more pressure in certain areas, simply switch the rotating jet out and the directional jet in. We can also build your spa with the jets selection of your choice.
Lastly, Atera AnyTemp Spas is the only manufacturer in the industry that offers complete temperature control in your spa. With our exclusive, patented chiller option, you can literally set the temperature of your spa exactly like the thermostat in your home. This will provide hot water in the cooler months, exactly like any other hot tub. Additionally it gives the user the option to cool their spa in the hot and humid summer months. You have the perfect temperature spa 365 days a year!
You can check out the Atera AnyTemp Spa at ateraspas.com and we offer the option to purchase factory direct for any customers that do not currently have a displaying dealer in their area. Atera AnyTemp Spas are also featured on poolandspa.com and are the recipients of both Best of Class and Most Innovative Spa awards in 2010. If you have any additional questions or interest you can reach our factory showroom at 623-334-3999 between 10-6 pacific time.
I hope this helps, best of luck with your search! Welcome to the wonderful world of healthy, healing waters!
Cindy,
Please do not hijack thread. Answer questions. Sure, advocate for your product, but not a full sales presentation. Went to your web site. Claims are full of holes.
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Thanks, guys
I'm in a mild (SF Bay Area) climate.
Jut realized that I only have a 40 amp 240 breaker available. Deal Killer?
thx
bob
Need 50 amp breaker. If you are, indeed, maxed out, deal killer. I am in north bay and have my Jetsetter on 120 v. No issues? Why are you considering converting?
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Hi Guys,
What the cheapest way to convert my 2000 Jetsetter to 240? Buy the HS part or build a box?
thx
bob
If you are going to do it correctly, with GFCI breakers, the easiest way to do it is to buy the HS part. If you can easily find the breakers it might be cheaper to build the box. Some people put the 50 amp GFCI in the main panel and then use regular breakers at the sub panel. Not recommending; just passing on info.
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After shopping around, I too got a great price on a 2010 Marquis Epic Ultimate for $8,900.00. I received price quotes from other dealers for over $3,000 more, so there much be a HUGE markup on spas. It's being delivered tomrorrow and I can't wait.
You did get high quotes. However, just because the quotes were that high doesn't mean the final price would be, as you learned. Sounds to me like the dealer who sold it to you isn't making much on it. Is he near you? Is he solvent?
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David's response is a little bit of a stretch. Jacuzzi is a good brand, but there is no tub maker that is comparable to Maytag. The original company is 50 years old. They made jetted bath tubs, not hot tubs. The industry is not 50 years old.
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Still having problems even with new filter cart. Today I blew in the ozone line to force air into the pump and it started working?
thx
bob
Let's see if it keeps going. Make sure you have a good flow of bubbles from the heater return (bottom drain).
So far so good. Pete, it seems to happen when I have the front panel off. I thought maybe it's just coincidence because I'm there but it seems to go fine for days if leave the panel on? Is that crazy or does that sound like something that could cause the pump to shut down?
thx
bob
Crazy coincidence.
Shucks, I spoke to soon. Panel on, lost my bubbles again. Should I just get a new E-5? Are they better than the 5000?
thx
bob
No bubbles. But do you have flow? Is your heater reset popping. Might not be circ pump at all.
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A Sundance Altamar spa had been sitting with water for a couple of years after being used regularly. We cleaned it out completely and and filled it up for a second run at life. All worked beautifully, but we notice that the temperature on the pan is about 10 degrees warmer than the temperature of the water. Now it states the water is 104 degrees, when the water is actually only 94. No way to get it up that last ten. All other functions work fine.
Does this seem like a thermostat problem or one involving the heater? The temperature was always ten degrees below the temperature stated on the panel from 80 degrees on up to 104. Our spa is no longer under warranty.
Thanks for your help.
HP
T-Stat.
Advice Needed On Spa Purchase
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
I stand corrected on the electrical. They have changed it since I sold them. However, the issue of 30 vs. 50 totally depends on weather/geography and use. Still, I would agree if you have the option of 50, go with it.
Yes, I named 4 manufacturers. I named four MAJOR manufacturers.