arches2
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Posts posted by arches2
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There should be a jumper diagram in the manual. Just move the jumper from the pins that represent the 50A in the diagram to the pins shown for 60A using small needle nose pliers. Obviously with the power turned off.. Make sure you have 6AWG wire rated for 60+ amps (THHN in conduit is best) and that your breakers are 60A (obviously).
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800 to move it is a lot but what you describe sounds like you NEED a pro to move it. I had two other guys to move my altmar and we had everything we could do to move it. Plus it cost me $200 anyway in bribes to get them to help me. hire a pro. You should be able to get the tub for $3500 to max $4000. Make sure the cover and pillows are ok. use that as a reason to knock it down. Are they going to throw in the electric stuff? That's worth a couple hundred too. It cost me $400 in material to install my tub myself in wire, disconnect, breaker, and conduit. 55 feet of 6 AWG THHN wire is expensive. Nice thing about the sundances is you don't need to run a neutral (white) wire to the tub so that saves some of the cost in electrical (that i ran anyway before i knew).
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My taller deck has the hottub, and has closer spaced joists underneath the tub along with extra posts.
That's the key: you build for the material and it works fine. Put supports closer together, and it will be fine. The support is from the structure, not so much the decking surface.
Exactly. the decking material has NO role in supporting your tub or any other part of the deck. You walk on it and look at it. That is all. I have PT pine (just the cheap stuff) on my deck. I hate it but my 600 sq ft deck was already too expensive so i cut where i could and that was the decking. If you can afford the trex (using trex as a generic term because i don't really like the trex brand stuff) then look at redwood or Ipe instead if you like wood. They are much more stable, esp. ipe and they look awsome. Don't be afraid of composite decking in your conditions, it will hold up just fine and you will get 20+ years out of it easily. Ipe will be longer but you do have to maintain it and it can be resurfaced.
Your bigger concern here is the framing of the deck. Make sure you build 2x12 construction with 12" on center and use a minimum of 8x8" poles (i'd go with telephone pole type pylons in your application driven a minimum of 6 ft deep if possible. Concrete footings would also work though. Make sure you have a profesional building engineer approve the structural design. If it is not designed well underneath you have an application that could end very badly.
IPE deck.
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Found my problem. The pvc manifold that all the venturi lines come off of for the lounge was cracked. The end somehow broke off. Slapped a bunch of PVC cement on the end and stuck it back on. Seemed to hold just fine since there is no pressure on it. Probably happened when we moved it as the manifold is tucked right up against the shell
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also in the Northeast so i understand your heating concerns. If you are not concerned about the cost of the electric heat in the winter to heat your room a high flow panisonic exhaust fan should be sufficient to reduce the humidity. However that will dump the warm air outside too and cost you a fortune. Like the others suggested, treat it like an outside room with your finishing. Minimize drywall if possible. Look into a fresh air heat recovery heat exchanger like this instead of the bathroom fan or even a bathroom version like this panisonic. Not much more expensive but will keep a majority of the heat in the room while exhausting the humidity. Add in a humidistat for automatic operation as you will otherwise have to manually operate it with the electric baseboard.
Finally, since you are doing tile, make sure the floor is well insulated (spray foam is a good idea) and use an under tile radiant floor electric heat mat. Otherwise the tile will be very cold in the winter. I am assuming there will not be a foundation under the sunroom (on peirs)
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Ace vs clearray can't be compared. they are two completely different things that do different stuff. The ACE system is a complete water treatment system. You add salt and it does you sanitizing for you. It still creates Chlorine though and you will have the chlorine smell no matter what. A proper level of Cl is hardly noticable though. It's possible the dealers were running a higher clorine level then a homeowner would since they have different people using it and probably have to treat it as a public pool.
The clear ray is just a gimmick IMO. It will kill off a few bacteria but it can only do so much. It is not a complete water care system. you will still have to run Cl or Bromine and manage it properly. Not realy hard to do at all but you still have to do it.
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go to the water chemistyr section of the forums and read all the pinned topics. Decide which sanitizer you want to use (chlorine or bromine) then re-read the pinned topics on those. when you think you understand, then read them all again. That's the best way to sucess in running and maintaining a spa. I know nothing about it before i came here. after doing the above i had a flawless startup and have had zero problems in the first month.
I bought from any number of online dealers. A lot of people like spadepot. I used spa-mart as well. any of the major chemical suppliers are fine but you can get everything you need at walmart too.
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sundance min temp is 80 F.
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The diagram and instructions are in the rear of the manual. Look again. I just did it the other day (when i installed my altamar). The only confusing part is it doesn't say what to do with the 40A jumper. I assumed just leave it off and that was correct. Mine works great on 60A. It's very nice using all the jets and having heat.
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i started using the android app Pool Pal. it's free and correlates well with the pool calculator. Plus you can create a log of your last 20 readings (though you can't add notes on chemical additions which would be nice). it's a good alternative for us android users.
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everything you need for three step bromine is available at walmart for about $15.
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did you add the bromine bank starter packet? If you don't have that you won't maintain good sanitizer levels without shocking. It sounds like you have a need for decontamination. Read up on that in the pinned thread in the hot tub chemistry section. Also read the chlorine demand thread. it's applicable to bromine as well.
I think you need to shock it every day to a bromine level of about 10 ppm until it holds at 5-7 ppm the next day (without using it). This means your sanitizer demand is down to 25-50% which is a good target. Also don't be afraid to try your TA at about 60-70 as that will help keep the pH down. I have had a pH of 7.6-7.8 for over a week (since new fill balance) without adding any chemicals. The ozonator is activating my bromine bank and my floater has maintained a 5ppm level on just a setting of 1 with my 4 and 2 year olds using it. I knew nothing about this before i got my tub. I read and re-read the pinned topics. That's it.
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so I narrowed this down some. I took out the air valve and plugged it up with a damp towel. Still get bubbles. Took the air inlet hose and put my hand over it. Almost no suction and it didn't stop the bubbles. So that leads me to believe the air valve is fine. This is on the lounger so there's three hoses coming off the valve. two small ones to the feet that are clamped on and a big flex that goes somewhere into the foam to the seat. I took the foot hoses off and put my finger over them and the bubbles stopped. This tells me there is a hole in the main seat lines somewhere.
Guess i just have to start digging. Any easy thoughts on how to find an air leak? maybe use an air compressor and some kind of indicator? The lounge jets are almost too strong with the air injectors on blast
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The water looked good the whole time, but the time frame was the Calcium went in then about maybe 15 minutes the Baking soda, then maybe another 30 minutes until the pH down. At least there's an explanation, was very wierd to me at the time since i hadn't read about that issue here anywhere. Sounds like i should just re do the calcium today since everything else is looking good. Our tap water is very low in everything. CH = 15, TA = 20, and pH is 6.8-7.0
Thanks!
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i did my first fill tonight. I set Ch to about 130 with Leisure time calcium increase and confirmed with my taylor kit. then set about doing everything else. about 3 hours later i checked ch to verify and i get nothing. no color at all when adding the 5 colored drops (forget the number) that are supposed to get it red.
What could cause the CH to disappear? the only thing i had to put in was baking soda to raise the TA from 20 and then i had to put some spa down / dry acid in to lower pH from above 8. TA is now 70 and ph is 7.6 I'm also doing the three step bromine and i shocked the bromine bank to 13ppm with bleach. I've had the jets on the whole time.
Should i just dose the calcium increase again? Everything else looks fine.
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my water was mostly balanced when i started the super-chlorination step (fresh fill). TA was a little low around 20-40 and the ph was about 7.0 (had to use test strips since my taylor kit is still in the possesion of UPS). What i wasn't expecting because i hadn't seen it noted here was that the pH would go off the scale high as soon as i added the bleach (8.4 being the high for the test strip). I tried reducing it for a bit but just gave up knowing i was going to dump the water in an hour anyway. I neutralized it with H2O2 before dumping and the pH came back down as the bleach neutralized. i assume this is normal and the high ph didn't harm the effectiveness of the decon?
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I have a 2009 sundance altamar that i just bought. Doing decontamination right now. I am finding that the seat next to the control panel on pump 1, i can't adjust the air injection. It's stuck on no matter what i do with the diverter valve. I took it out and changed it with a known working one and it did not fix it and i put the one from the bad seat into another location and it works fine so i know it isn't the control valve.
Does this mean i have a bad air check valve somewhere, or even a hole in the air line? I assume the air intake is just a venturi effect and there's no forced air anywhere correct?
Thanks
Steve
Converting My Bromine Hot Tub To Salt Water
in Hot Tub Water Chemistry
Posted
Buy a Technichlor, Drain it, Install technichlor, fill, add salt (and balance), enjoy!
I have bromine becuase i didn't want to spend the money on the technichlor when i first got the tub, but i may change over at some point though bromine is working well for me so far. I have a friend with a colorchlor (same as technichlor but with lights) and he says it works great.