Venams

20 Mule Team Borax is basic so would increase the pH and TA. The Muriatic Acid compensates for that. If you prefer to increase borates by adding a single product that is close to pH neutral, then you can use boric acid such as found in ProTeam® Gentle Spa, but that is more expensive (though for spa quantities, not that much). Gotcha. Thanks for explaining. Waiting on my Lamotte Borate test strips!

In your size spa you will add 3 level cups borax and 1 1/2 cups muriatic acid to get to 50 ppm (not exact but close enough to get you in the ballpark and keep measuring easy). Dump in the borax and then slowly pour in the acid with the jets running. Let them run for about 30 min to an hour. Readjust pH after 24-48 hours. Waterbear; Won't the 1 1/2 cups Muriatic drop my PH and ALK since they are basically balanced in my tub right now?

OK Waterbear. Next iteration got the TA down to 90ppm and PH was 7.5 Perfect. Do I need to worry about Borax and what should I do next if anything?

OK. I added about 1/2 cup anhydrous Calcium (prestone driveway heat) to bump CH to about 150ppm first. Then I used ph demand test to show 8 drops of acid needed to take PH to 7.0 as you advised. Bought some Muriatic and per the chart in Taylor book added about 3.5 ounces (for approx. 485 gallons) and ran jets for 20 mins. Retested: TA = 120ppm PH = 7.7PPM did another acid demand and this time 5 drops to get to PH of 7.0. Added another 2 ounces per Taylor table and will check in another 20 mins. Is this the right approach?

Thanks Waterbear. My bad. I forgot to add my PH. PH = 7.8 so I was trying to lower the PH and TA and plugged my known values into the Pool Calculator. I will run my test again and then do acid demand test to determine amount needed. So a few more questions Please.. 1) I bought Borax but not sure if I need to add or how much? 2) Also I have Anhydrous Calcium Chloride (Prestone driveway heat). Should I add that to bring up the CH levels? 3) You mentioned Ozone counters Chlorine. What should I do then? Switch to Bromine (not crazy since I bought the Taylor Chlorine Kit and all 3 tubs I've had have been equipped with Ozone and the spa store recommends chlorine with them?)

I made an error in calculating FC and CC. Updated results from yesterday are below: * Spa temp is 97 degrees and my fill is about 1 week old. Balanced initial fill using test strips and PH Down, Metal-X and Sani-Spa (Dichlor. Spa has Ozonator TA = 150PPM (sample turned light pink at 14 drops and got darker with 15 drops so used 15 drops- not sure whether to use measurement of drops when it first changes color or gets deeper/truer in color?) CH = 70-90PPM (again turned light blue at 7 drops but got darker blue at 9 drops - not sure to use measurement when it first changes color or when it gets deep in color?) CYA = 53PPM Chlorine = 4.5PPM CC = 1PPM I tested Free Chloring again today and it's at 1.5ppm (24 hours later) so I believe my chlorine demand is 66%? Is this normal for a Spa equipped with an Ozonator? I entered the TA and PH from above on the Pool Calculator and it said to add .6oz by volume dry acid (Sodium Bisulfate). Is this right? It seems I usually add way more PH down to lower my tubs PH and TA?

forgot to add that my Spa temp is 97 degrees and my fill is about 1 week old. Balanced initial fill using test strips and PH Down, Metal-X and Sani-Spa (Dichlor)

Waterbear; Got my Taylor kit and ran the full test results. I have about 485 gallons in my Optima and it is equipped with OZONONATOR. TA = 150PPM (sample turned light pink at 14 drops and got darker with 15 drops so used 15 drops- not sure whether to use measurement of drops when it first changes color or gets deeper/truer in color?) CH = 70-90PPM (again turned light blue at 7 drops but got darker blue at 9 drops - not sure to use measurement when it first changes color or when it gets deep in color?) CYA = 53PPM Chlorine = 13.5PPM CC = 6PPM OK. What should I do next?

Yep, just a typo (that I have corrected). As I said i was in a rush to get to work. If you would say how many gallon is your tub I will try and simplify the startup directions. The chemicals and supplies you will need are: Dichlor (which you have, you only need this on fresh fills. Once the CYA is up to about 20-30 ppm you switch to bleach) pH decreaser (which you have) (the ones sold for pool use are often more economical than the ones sold for spa use and they are the identical chemicals) Chlorine laundry bleach from the grocery baking soda from the grocery (when you need to raise TA) Borax from the grocery ,used to both raise the pH (which you probably won't ever need to do unless you accidentally overdose on acid) and to get the borates up to 50 ppm. You might need calcium chloride IF your calcium hardness is below about 130 ppm. Taylor K-2006 LaMotte Borate test strips (much better than the AquaChek strips, easier to read) Optional : a scum bug to float in the spa (special oil absorbing sponge that helps soak up body oils and lotions to help prevent a scum line, only about $6 and they last about a year. You do not need a metal remover UNLESS your fill water has metals in it (have your local pool/spa store check for iron and copper or fill the spa with softened water if you have a water softener and then bump up the calcium to about 130 ppm. Water softeners take out metals.) IF your fill water has a very high calcium hardness (above a bout 400 ppm) a metal remover can help prevent scaling (calcium IS a metal after all). You do not need defoamers, enzymes, MPS shock, clarifiers, etc. except under special conditions It is a good idea to use a spa purge maybe once a year. Once you get your kit post a full set of test results and we can take it from there. Thanks Waterbug. I have a Sundance Optima and it's fill is 485 US Gallons. I think I'm going to look for the Pool Dichlor and PH Down like you mentioned. I use way too much of the small bottles that my Spa Store sells. Hopefully Walmart or Meijer might sell them for Pools? I'll pick up some 20 mule team Borax if I read the information correctly. My local water report shows the following so I think I need the Metal-X (my tub scaled horribly the first time I filled and didn't use it!): Iron .12mg/l Sodium 280mg/l Lead 0ug/l (15 ug/l action) Copper 1.3mg/l (1.3mg/l action)

One more thing. I could not find a Taylor K-1006 Test Kit. I'm assuming it's the K-2006 kit that I just ordered from Amazon.com for 46 (sold by Amato Industries)? I hope that's the one. If not can someone please reply ASAP so I can cancel order?

Thank you kindly sir and I'll wait patiently for your follow-up! Yes I was referring to MPS not PMG, Sorry! I'm also hoping that I can find either the Sodium Dichlor (2 lbs granules for 10.99)or Sodium Bisulfate (1qt 8.99) cheaper than my spa store? At least I hope! Check out Home Depot or Walmart and get the ones sold for pools. Just make sure thay do not contain other things like algacides or other additives

No disrespect Waterbear. I'd like to start using the dichlor/chlorine regiment but quite frankly; I've read about 3 hours of posts on this forum/stickies and I'm completely confused. Moreso overwhelmed. My initial post was asking what items specifically do I need to get started on the chorine regimen and if possible where can I buy them at decent prices. So far I've seen these items talked about: Muriatic Acid Dry Acid (how is this labeled on the shelf and where do I buy?) Borox/Borax (how is this labeled on the shelf and where do I buy?) Gentle Spa (how is this labeled on the shelf and where do I buy?) Calcium (how is this labeled on the shelf and where do I buy?) Salt (how is this labeled on the shelf and where do I buy?) CYA (how is this labeled on the shelf and where do I buy?) The maitenance section said all I'd need to balance the water is: Calcium Backing Soda Dry Acid Borates I have and have been using rather price products from my local Spa Store: Sani-Spa (Sodium dichloro triazinetrione), Spa Shock (PMG), Metal-X (for lowering metals in our well water), and PH DOWN (Sodium bisulfate) Can you give me advice as to what products to buy, where I might find them and about how much they should cost Please? I'm assuming I would replace using the Sani-Spa and PH Down but would still need the metal-x and PMG once a week? Thanks in advance sir!

I have a 2008 Sundance Optima and have been using Nature's Way spa chemicals which are sold by my local dealer. I am less than thrilled at the results as I've battled cloudy water and obnoxious smells for the past few years. I've used Sani-Spa which I believe is DiChlor and Spa Shock to shock and sanitize. I also use PH down (Sodium Bicarbonate about 42 ounces on newly filled tub about 500 gallons) and Metal-X (about 14 ounces). So I've read so many things on the net about Muriatic Acid and Bleach and I'm totally confused. Can someone set me up with a new regimen on my Optima. So far I've balanced the water using Aquacheck test strips and the regular PH DOWN with about 2 ouncs of the Sani-Spa (Dichlor). What should I buy and how do I convert to the "new" method?