walleye
-
Posts
175 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by walleye
-
-
Yes, we have established that we did not research (who'd a thunk?) and that's why I am here. ;-)
You mention you use a Bromine system but you also shock it with Bleach. I thought I just read somewhere else on here that you shouldn't mix the two - i.e., either choose the Bromine route or Chlorine....I'll go read some more. I obviously must have misunderstood!
I only use about 4 ounces of bleach every 7-10 days just because it is less expensive and is already in the laundry room! :-)
You may be correct about not using bleach and Bromine, but I suspect that means as a sanitizing system, either do one or the other. I am also new so I could be wrong. I would appreciate somebody letting me know if I should not use bleach for shocking my bromine system. I hope you get your tub balanced and enjoy it. Good luck to you.
-
I am a new Hot Tub owner, less than 2 months. It seemed complicated at first, but it really is quite simple. Much simpler than my friends pool. I think you all jumped in it without having a clue. That is a mistake you made and really should have did some research prior. Not a smart choice (especially if you own a pool you should have known better). Anyway, drain it, decontaminate it, spend a couple hours reading here, refill and you will be fine. I use a Bromine system and if you fill correctly, and balance correctly, all I do is add tabs every few days and shock with Bleach every 7-10 days and my water is crystal clear and all levels are spot on. Very simple. You just can't fill and jump in without any idea on what do do. (which is what you already admitted) Relax, start over and enjoy your tub.
-
I just went through two years of research. I bought a Sundance Altamar. Love it.
-
Thanks guys. I was under the impression we should shock weekly. My tub has been staying clear. Only once it got slightly cloudy but I let the bromine tabs get dissolved and had a bromine level of 1 ppm. I will not shock unless I have some indication to do so. I keep enough tabs to maintain 3-5 PPM and it has been very easy so far. Thanks again.
-
Waterbear;
I went ahead and shocked the tub (as I do every Sunday) this time I used much less bleach. I added about 3 ounces followed by two ounces of renew, and run one pump and the air pump for 30 minutes. After that I tested with my Taylor kit and the Bromine was 13.5 PPM. Is this sufficient for a Shock? If so I like the lower Bromine number. I left the Bromine tabs in the container as usual to have the same conditions as last time. Only thing I did different was use 3 ounces VS 6 ounces of bleach. Water has been crystal clear and all other numbers are withing range.
-
IF the bromine is staying very high for a long period then you probably don't need to shock as often. Normally the level should drop in a day or less. Also, take out the floater when you shock.
Thanks Waterbear. I do not have a floater, the Altamar has a compartment on the door that floats in front of the filter. I could remove the tabs. I appreciate the reply. I will cut back on the amount and see if that helps. I am usually the only one in nightly and maybe two people weekly is all. Maybe I am being to aggressive.
-
15 ppm should be fine.
I am glad to see this as I am doing the same thing. Only thing is is takes longer than I like to get the Bromine back below 10 ppm. I like it around 4-5 normally. I know hydrogen peroxide will bring it down (right?) but how long does the high level need to stay high to do its job? If I let it go till the next day (12-16 hrs) is that long enough to shock? Last time I used 8 Ounces of bleach and the Bromine was at 18 the next day still.
THX
-
If the Calcium Hardness (CH) level is below 120 ppm, then raise it to 120-150 ppm to see if it helps to reduce foaming.
Right then. Got my Palintester through the post and just did all four tests. They came out as follows:
Total alkalinity = 60mg/l
pH = below 6.8 (the tester doesn't go lower)
Chlorine = over 6.0
Calcium hardness = 260mg/l
This gave an overall 'balanced water index' of 10.3 (corrosive).
I compared this with the test strips I was using and the results are completely different. This at least justifies the purchase of the Palintester. I took it upon myself to immediately add an egg cup full of pH+ granules (Jacuzzi branded). I guess the chlorine will just burn off with time.
What do I use to raise the alkalinity? Ideally, where should all the above four readings be? Any other suggestions??
Still got the same level of foam, although I guess getting the above levels balanced is the primary task!
use this...it is a life saver.
-
The Palintest Pooltester SP 315C will test for everything you would need in a pool or spa. It tests for Free Chlorine (FC), Combined Chlorine (CC), pH, Total Alkalinity (TA), Calcium Hardness (CH) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA). If you don't need the CYA test, then you can get the SP 315. Note that test strips do not measure calcium hardness, only total hardness. This is why you need a drop-based test kit such as the ones I just mentioned (unfortunately the Palintest FAS-DPD is not available in the U.K.)
Thanks for the tip Chem Geek. I've just ordered one of the SP 315's off their distributor. Cost quite a bit with the 250 refills (and healthy carriage fee), but hoping it is worth it long term! I did actually call my local hot tub supplier first, but they said it's not worth testing sample water as it is not at the correct temperature. Having said that, I have very little faith in them as they are a small outlet with little experience. I asked them about testing kits and he knew next to nothing.
The kit is due to be delivered tomorrow, so I will post the results then so that you can make some recommendations. Thanks all for the tips.
Don't blame you for the lack of confidence in the dealer. I don't think (I could be wrong) that the temp has too much to do with the Calcium Hardness.
-
After owning my spa for a few weeks, I can tell you having the 50 AMP VS the 60 AMP will make no difference to me. I lose no heat (that I can see) when using all pumps. If so it is unnoticeable. After I get out of my tub at 104, I set it to 99 and in the morning it is still at 102. Holds heat very well. When I use the over ride to go to 106, same story. I don't lose any heat prior to being ready to get out. It may drop 1 degree if I wait long enough, but it is not an issue at all for me. I am loving this tub and use it virtually every night. Water chemistry has been EZ as well. Thanks everybody.
-
Figgy33, until you get a proper testing kit, take a sample of your tub water to your dealer where you bought the spa. They will test in a matter of minutes and should be of no charge. In fact, any dealer will test water for you. Then they can provide you with the right product and tell you the amount needed to correct your Calcium level. I had to do the same thing. Good news is once you get the correct level, it stays pretty stable until your next fill. It was not expensive and only took a few ounces. Keep us posted as this is how we (ME) learn.
-
I agree with your entire post. And it does sound like you did find a good deal on our spa. They are few and far between and when they come up, they are quickly snatched up. If you are patient, they can be found. I looked for some time and all I could find in tubs in very tough shape. By the time I bought my spa, paid the taxes and even though I did almost all the wiring myself, I had close to 8800.00 into it. Happy tubbing
-
LOL,, Beemers VS Spa's? Now there is apples and oranges. I am glad you like your spa and I hoe you enjoy it. What I am saying is I am sure I can buy a newer Sundance (or the like) only a couple years old for about 50% of original selling price. That makes more sense to to me than having nearly the same money into a 5 year old used tub. I also said that if it were in pristine condition it is a fair deal. Did not say anything about a Corolla. By the way, I am very familiar with BMW's, and I am not so sure I would not choose a corolla over one. Lots of trouble and way too expensive to work on. Hard to believe a Beemer owner would settle for a used spa. (JK)
-
Thanks Waterbear.
-
CYA stands for "Cyanuric Acid" and is also known as "stabilizer" or "conditioner". It is a chemical that does two things: 1) it protects chlorine breakdown from the ultraviolet (UV) rays in sunlight and 2) it combines with chlorine to significantly lower the active chlorine (hypochlorous acid) concentration. The former is important in outdoor pools (and spas exposed to sunlight) while the latter is important to prevent chlorine from being too harsh on swimsuits, skin, hair, equipment, pool and spa covers, from evaporating too quickly, and to reduce the rate of creation of certain disinfection by-products (such as nitrogen trichloride).
Stabilized chlorine products, such as Trichlor pucks/tabs and Dichlor granules, increase the CYA level and since CYA doesn't get used up the way that chlorine does, continued use of these chlorine products will build up CYA over time making the chlorine less and less effective which can cause problems (most notably algae growth in pools and cloudy water or possibly hot tub itch in spas).
So is this something we add or monitor? If I drain my tub every three months? What if I have (I do) a Bromine system? I don't have a lot of direct sunlight as it is on my deck mostly under a extended roof. Is this something I need to be concerned about? Thanks.
-
Sorry guys. but all these abbreviations are not common to us newbies. I have no idea what it is or what it does.
-
You have to be careful, but you can get great deals on used hot tubs. I bought mine off Craigslist for $2,000. It's a 2006 Sundance Optima in great shape. Look for a brand name like Sundance, Hot Springs, Dimension I or Jacuzzi to name some of them. Make sure it's full of water and running and you get to wet test it. Never buy an tub that is not operational.
On top of the $2,000 I spent for the tub, I spent another approximately $1,000 for moving it from the private individual I bought it from to my house and for the electrician to hook it up.
I shopped for about two months before buying and had to act very quickly when I saw this one on Craigslist. When a very good deal comes up they go quickly and you have to recognize it when you see it, but that will come by educating yourself on what to look for. Used spas at the dealers are also worth looking at and they may offer some warranty.
WET TEST BEFORE BUYING
So you have $3000 in a 5-6 year old used tub with no warranty. Not saying a bad deal, but again, you get what you pay for. In my opinion (only my opinion) $3000 for a 5 year old tub might be a fair deal, not at all a steal. (IF it is in pristine condition at that age) I still say save your coin and buy new unless you come across a 1-2 year old spa in perfect shape, which will sell for about 50% of new price in this area. I paid $7700 delivered and hooked up for a brand new Sundance Altamar and just taking it home drops the value by 30-40% I promise. Good luck.
-
Bleach is an oxidizer.
So is a Oxidizer a sanitizer? (Bromine and Chlorine?) Also, what removes the oxidizer after it is spent? Just trying to understand all this so I can make sense of it. Is there a thread that addresses all this? Thanks.
-
Thank you chem geek.
-
I have a question. Currently I am using Bromine in my Hot Tub and it is working very well and it is EZ. My question is, once a week I shock it with Clorox, about 6 ounces. (455 gallon tub) My bomine level has been 1-2 in the past but I added another tab and now sits around 4-5 ppm. Question is, after I add the bleach I have been adding about an ounce or two of "Renew" non chlorine as an oxidizer. Is this needed or am I wasting the "Renew"? I have not yet got this figured out, I am under the impression I need to add an Oxidizer to remove spent bleach. What do you suggest I do differently? In a nutshell I am adding a couple ounces of the renew after every 2nd or 3rd use. I am usually in it nightly. So I add renew say once a week (2 OUNCES) and once a week I add 6 ounces of bleach followed a hour later by 2 ounces of renew. Thanks for all the help here. It is very much appreciated. So far my levels are all good and the water is very clear.
-
You can buy brand new similar tubs $2999.00 delivered to your door. At least they are new with warranty. If you are looking for a higher end spa, read here through the threads. It won't take you long to find out what are considered the "top brands". It is all about how much money you want to spend. And just to say up front, I hope this does not turn into a debate on Big Store Chains as there are already too many threads doing that. I mention them because you are looking to buy a inexpensive tub. There are happy owners that stand behind them. I would recommend that over a $1000 Craig List tub in most cases. Again, good luck.
-
If you are going to spend $1000 or more then have to fix it up and likely have 2K or more into it and still have a used spa that you have to decontaminate and have no idea what shape it is in, I would suggest saving your money for a bit until you can afford a new spa. There are some inexpensive spas that are at least new and carry some warranty. Some used deals are a good deal, but most are not IMO. I looked a long time prior to buying. I think you will regret buying a used tub unless it is relatively new and high end spa that has been well taken care of. You will get what you pay for. Good luck.
-
Hello everyone,
I am very new to hot tubs and was thinking about purchasing this hot tub from craigslist. Are these decent units? Are parts available? Does this price seem right?
http://humboldt.craigslist.org/hab/2695190448.html
Thank you very much in advance for your response.
IMHO, don't waste your money.
-
Thanks Chem Geek. That is helpful information as usual from you. I still would like to know what the consequences would have been had I soaked in 16 ppm for a half hour or so. If 10 ppm is the norm upper limit, I thought 16 may be OK once. What is the limit of never going in at all? Thanks.
Spa Review
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
OK, now that I have had my tub a couple months, I can give my thoughts and see if they are similar to other owners.
1. I use my tub nightly, unless away or weather prohibits. (Lightning only) I get in my tub in all weather conditions except lightning.
2. They they say my tub is a 5-6 person tub, this is false. It is 3-4 people, and 4 being two couples. You could put 5-6 but not comfortably.
3. I have a lounger, which I love. It is usually just me or my wife and I so the room is not a problem. The lounger is my favorite spot.
4. Water chemistry has been a breeze. Mostly thanks to help here, but I have had no trouble at all. Crystal clear all the time.
5. I bought a Taylor kit for Bromine and check way more often than I need to, just because I enjoy it. Way better than test strips.
6. I usually heat to 104-106 before I enter the tub. It holds the temp no problem, even in below freezing temps. I set the temp to 99 once I exit.
7. The next day, 10-12 hours later, if the temp was at 104 when I exited, and I set the temp at 99, it is still at 100-101 the next morning.
8. I keep my bromine level at 3-5 ppm and shock about every 10 days with 4-6 ounces of Bleach. I was doing this weekly, but learned I did not need to.
9. Since my AC does not run all the time now, my electric bills have went down, not sure what this costs to operate, but it is minimal for sure.
10. I use mostly Borax, Clorox and Baking Soda to maintain so the cost is also very little. Also a Bromine tab 1 or two times weekly depending on use.
11. I can't hear it run at all. It is right outside my bedroom door.
12. My back definitely feels better in the mornings, this alone has made the purchase worth it. Plus I love sitting out there under the stars.
13. Even in bad weather, I would never want a tub indoors. This is just a personal opinion and no wrong answer. I am under a nice overhang on my deck.
14. I have had zero regrets and am just as glad I bought the tub as I was the first day. Love sitting in the open under the stars!