Even Further
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Posts posted by Even Further
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Congrats on the new tub!
Consider Spa Depot for Chems via online, they ship pretty quick and pricing is good.
I've used Amazon for replacement filters and saved a good amount vs. other sites and stores.
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I have a similar situation, and can relate. I bought an used tub as well (2001 Coast Spas). How much did you pay for it?
I've had my tub running for about 6 months so far. Honestly I'm happy with the purchase even though I've had to stick money into it.
Does your tub have 1 pump, or 2 pumps? That might explain the feeling of low pressure.
I just fixed a leak (slow drip) at pump 2, only cost 8 bucks for a wet end seal. Looking back, I should have just replaced the whole wet end, not just the seal.
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Congrats on the new spa!
What's the wifi connect?
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Yeah it sounds somewhat easy to replace the bearings, just a learning curve the first disassembling the motor. A co-worker has done it before on pool pumps, and I've replaced automotive bearings. I do appreciate your help Spa Guru, many thanks for your replies.
In my case, I'd need to get the puller tool, install tool (or sized pipe/tube), remove bearings, drive to the store to get the correct bearings, and purchase bearings. It seems like too much screwing around for an old motor. I would be down for days to get this all done within my normal schedule. I would also have to take off work to make it to the electric motor/bearing supplier in my area (9-5 type hours). I would much rather compare the old/new bearings in person rather than buy online, but online is do-able.
The cost of all that is roughly 15-20% of a new motor, and much more time intensive.
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You can't beat D1's level of support. The most important possession of a business, is its reputation.
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Great update about your spa. My Coast is almost 11 years old and runs like a champ.
The info label on my cover (Beachcomber) says "expected life: 3-5 years".
When I get a new cover, I/m going to use 303 vinyl protectant spay liberally.
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Finished the impeller seal replacement, and leak is gone. In hindsight, I should have just replaced the whole wet end. The impeller sleeve was so crusty I would have broken it, if I removed it to replace the other part of the seal. Not bad though, 8 bucks to fix a pump/shaft leak works for me.
The motor bearing were fine, rust was only on the exposed surface of the shaft. I don't thinks it worth while to replace motor bearing on a 10 year old motor, unless you have a bearing puller tool. It saves so much time to replace replace the motor, wet end, or whole pump assembly.
The union gaskets were in great shape. I think they were replaced before.
This is the first weekend for colder weather, wooot!!!!
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With my tub (Gecko Controls) you should read 220 across the 2 posts on the heater element with a multi-meter. I had a heater problem when I first started my tub, and it was a bad pressure switch (tested no voltage across posts). The controls must sense pressure via the switch, then it sends power to the heater relay. What ever you do be careful 220 is dangerous.
Call the manufacturer or try to call any suitable spa company for advice as well.
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Another option is to get a new wet end p/n 315-1220, and new motor bearings.
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Tub: 2001 Coast Spas Silver Paradise, 2 5hp Pumps.
Pump 2 (single speed) was leaking at the pump seal. I bought a new seal, but don't have it yet. I pulled the pump and it is the original Waterway Executive 56 w/ Franklin motor. The date code on the motor is K00 so I'm assuming it was made in 2000. Now I'm contemplating replacing the whole pump/motor assembly. The pump looks pretty beat. I'm concerned that the pump/motor assembly will cost quite a bit. The OEM motor has a fan on the back that connects to ducking. The ducking goes from the back of the motor to the foot well area of the tub. I'm guessing that the pump/motor with fan will cost much more than a standard pump/motor without fan. I can get a new 1 spd Waterway pump/motor assembly without fan for about 250 from a local repair shop.
I hope I get the correct seal, and I'll have a better feel when its in my hands.
What do you guys think? Would you guys lean toward replacing the assembly?
The motor does run completely fine, it just leaked at the shaft/pump.
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You should post this in the "Hot Tub Water Chemistry" section.
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I've got a Color Q Pro 7 Plus. Its works great, and does both chlorine and bromine.
I researched alot when learning how to maintain my hot tub. It came down to using either chlorine or bromine. I've been using bromine after first trying chlorine (dichlor/bleach method). I can leave the hot tub for 5 days at a time and come back to clear water and good sanitizer level with bromine. There are many products out there that market "no chemicals". Some even state in the instructions that you must use with a sanitizer. However, they sure don't market the product in that manor.
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I've got the same problem. I'm leaning toward the seal and bearing replacement since the pump/motor doesn't look original.
I can get a new Waterway pump/motor assembly for just under 300 in my area, with warranty. So it is a little tempting to take the easy route.
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Any sort of gravel base should be compacted and leveled.
Thoroughly compacted, and level if your placing a heavy item on top.
The frame should be staked in place.
IMO if you have room, and its ok to do so, pour a concrete pad.
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If the OP disregarded the instructions sent, he would not have noticed the difference.
When you buy something "NIB" that is expensive, generally there is a warranty on the part itself.
Since it is a new current board, I would follow the newer instructions.
With electronic circuit boards, over time slight revisions are sometimes made.
Shut off the spa and take another look at the jumper settings on the newer instructions.
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Same as mentioned above.
Box in an area with treated wood, to frame, support and outline the base.
Lay gravel base (paver base or crushed granite).
Level and tamp it / compact the base.
Lay a EZpad over that.
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I bought an used Coast Spas. Its a 2001, and the year, and other important info is on the name plate.
If there is no name plate currently, at some point it was removed in the past. That's kind of sketchy to remove an important mfg label like that.
It's also sketchy the company doesn't know what year it is, and has a tub with no name plate.
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Consider using Bromine.
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Congrats on the new spa!
I buy all my chems and sanitizer from Spadepot.com. They have good prices, shipping cost, and are quick to ship. The Spa Choice brand Sodium Bromide and Bromine tablets have worked great.
I bought an EZ Pad on eBay. Its not the best looking, but there are a few things I like about it. The plastic material does not trap moisture on the spa underside. The spa can be moved, adjusted very easy once its on the pad (without water). The plastic does kinda look like a gray concrete color. I plan to put paver stones around it or something. My pad is on top of paver stones already. I like the fact that if it rains, the bottom base of the spa is slightly elevated above the ground level.
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This company is pretty good. I've bought a few expensive parts from them and they have competitive pricing and good service.
Link:
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What I do is balance the water first, then move on to sanitizer after its PH stable.
Are you doing both at the same time?
Where your at with the tub currently, I would drain and refill.
Really all I've done is followed instructions on this site. I'm new to this too.
Also I bought:
Granular Sodium Bromine (Spa Choice) (For Bromine bank)
Color Q Pro 7 water test kit
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Not to be captain obvious but you made the biggest mistake when buying used.
Never, never ever, buy used without testing ever single function, inspect for leaks, and test the sellers knowledge of spa care.
The seller probably knew about the problems.
Soooooo many people in my area try to sell junk tubs on CL.
IMO they're trying to actually get paid for hot tub removal service, which a normal business would charge for.
Some of them are not even worth fixing, and they want $1,000 or something plain stupid.
Do your research.
Luckily you found this awesome site. Everything you need to know is here.
I went from knowing nothing to mastering spa water care. It's actually pretty simple when you have a resource such as this site.
In my area the pool/spa store is zero help.
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Get a spa with good massage jets, aka rotating, therapeutic jets.
Jets that just push water are not all that.
Generally, good spas have a mix of both.
Test the spa with water and make sure all the functions work properly, BEFORE discussing the sale or price.
Even if the spa is empty I would insist they fill with water, and test. AND, ask to let the water sit for a day or two, to check for leaks.
Spas that sit unused can develop problems, especially if not properly maintained before downtime.
Its always a buyers market. There is more people trying to sell than buyers looking for used spas.
Check the filter to see if looks like they take care of the spa.
Ask the owner how they maintain the spa.
Get a good brand; Dimension 1, Coast Spa, Sundance, Marquis, Hot Springs, Bullfrog, Arctic, ect.
Volume Of Coast Spa?
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Call any Coast Spas dealer. They will help you out. You'll need to call 9-5 business hours.
San Juan Spas in Seattle has been helpful with my Coast Spas questions.