jeremyh

I agree w/ Waterbear, Water testing is very important. It also varies upon use of the spa. Testing and maintenance depends on time and frequency of use. Ideally levels must be maintained 24-7 if you just want to jump in. I have not dealt with salt generators in spas, so no comment. I seen the word "Floater" and just laughed, honestly I wish we did not sell them @ our store. All customers when using these usually have a bromine level around 20ppm or are using pool chlorine tabs. Must have been cheap @ wallmart. I would suggest granular bromine or chlorine (sodium dichlor)along with an oxidizing shock. Testing accordingly, and the use of a mineral stick or ozone generator. Mineral sticks can only be used with chlorine. Unless you are using "frog bromine compatible sticks"

I guess that is the difference between someone who has been in the industry and actually knows what they are talking about vs. a tub owner who doesn't. Water problems means that the first step is to test it and find out what is wrong. Water testing is not something you do once in a while. It is a regular part of tub maintenance. Without it you don't know what or how much of something your water needs. If you are not testing your water you are not maintaining your tub. Period. No way around it. Get the message? I will go back to the car analogy. If you don't check the air in your tires and check the fluid levels you are going to have problems. It's part of the regular maintenance of owning a car. Testing water is part of the regular maintenance of owning a tub. A good test kit makes this part of tub maintenance very easy, as anyone who has gone this route can tell you. Dealers are always going to tell you how easy the tub is going to be. Remember, they want to make the sale! "Sure, all you need is some chlorine tabs and a floater and you are good to go!" Several things wrong with this least of of that trichlor is NOT a good chlorine choice for a hot tub (for numerous reasons!) Dichlor granules are not either, since overstabilization and the risk of Pseudomonas is very real! Cal hypo, lithium hypochlorite and sodium hypochlorite are better choices for hot tubs. All require daily or close to daily dosing AND testing of the water. Period. There are very REAL dangers to improperly sanitized tub water and home hot tubs are where the problems usually occur since most owners do not really have a clue how to keep the water sanitized. Bromine, while it is a sensitizer (MPS is also a sensitizer, btw) IS the easiest and most forgiving sanitizer for the home tub, IMHO and that is based on not just opinion but on real world experience with many more than three hot tubs! You don't have to head the advice. Heck, you can fill your tub with raw sewerage if you want to BUT if you want to PROPERLY maintain your water you need to test it on a regular basis...Otherwise what you are doing is dip and dump.

I guess that is the difference between someone who has been in the industry and actually knows what they are talking about vs. a tub owner who doesn't. Water problems means that the first step is to test it and find out what is wrong. Water testing is not something you do once in a while. It is a regular part of tub maintenance. Without it you don't know what or how much of something your water needs. If you are not testing your water you are not maintaining your tub. Period. No way around it. Get the message? I will go back to the car analogy. If you don't check the air in your tires and check the fluid levels you are going to have problems. It's part of the regular maintenance of owning a car. Testing water is part of the regular maintenance of owning a tub. A good test kit makes this part of tub maintenance very easy, as anyone who has gone this route can tell you. Dealers are always going to tell you how easy the tub is going to be. Remember, they want to make the sale! "Sure, all you need is some chlorine tabs and a floater and you are good to go!" Several things wrong with this least of of that trichlor is NOT a good chlorine choice for a hot tub (for numerous reasons!) Dichlor granules are not either, since overstabilization and the risk of Pseudomonas is very real! Cal hypo, lithium hypochlorite and sodium hypochlorite are better choices for hot tubs. All require daily or close to daily dosing AND testing of the water. Period. There are very REAL dangers to improperly sanitized tub water and home hot tubs are where the problems usually occur since most owners do not really have a clue how to keep the water sanitized. Bromine, while it is a sensitizer (MPS is also a sensitizer, btw) IS the easiest and most forgiving sanitizer for the home tub, IMHO and that is based on not just opinion but on real world experience with many more than three hot tubs! You don't have to head the advice. Heck, you can fill your tub with raw sewerage if you want to BUT if you want to PROPERLY maintain your water you need to test it on a regular basis...Otherwise what you are doing is dip and dump.

Start with the easy stuff first.Are all pumps operating properly, sound good? Any water in the pan? Inspect all 3 pumps to confirm the pump seals are not bad (circ, then p1, last p2). If no leaks or corrosion are present, I would move on to Amp draw on the heater to confirm it is working. Instant tripping is caused by a bad component, and is easily found. Random can be harder, even a bad breaker (only need a 50a for that spa by the way) That year and model spa can be prone to leaks if the water chemistry has not been maintained (plumbing leaks). Also check the air blower, mice can get in them (black foam in the spa), If an air control is mounted above the blower check the HTC jets to confirm the inserts are not loose. If so, This causes leaking, and they should be replaced.