jeremyh
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Posts posted by jeremyh
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Interesting, but I'll give it a shot. 1st breaker size should not have to be changed. Both breakers should be the same size. Proper wire needs to be used according to length of run. No splices or junction boxes. If there is a breaker/wiring issue the breaker may be warm to the touch when tripped.
If not that, I would look into an "over fill" or something with a small drip inside the spa dripping / leaking back on a component. If all spa equipment turns on and runs, typically it is not component related. Since it sounds most of the equipment was replaced you have other issues.
as far as your questions, the spa should run as long as you want, with the exception of pump timers, regardless of heater (assuming proper pack configuration, for amp draw)
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Figured it out after diving into tech manual. Pumps 2 & 3 have a max amps combined of 20a. Anything higher disables one of the pumps. Swapped in a new motor, and dropped 1/2hp impeller size, and everything is working fine.
Fyi for anyone working on aeware stuff.
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Assuming it is nothing too new, the proper jumper needs to be set on circuit board.
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Chemical abuse or freeze damage is all I've seen cause that. Since you mention white build up, I am leaning too chems.
Yes you need a new heating assembly.
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Sold both, like both. The J300 line is hard to beat. It may not have all the bells, but it is a solid proven line. Plastic pan keeps the frame from rotting too. Covers on 4&5 are more custom/require special lifters.
stopped selling caldera in '02, still selling jacuzzi.
reguardless, buy from a dealer that offers good service it can be worth it when problems arise, and they will.
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---- means spa water temp has exceeded112f or heater 118f. Most common problem is temp sensor, but a failure of circ/flow sw, or bad pcb could also be the problem.
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Possible vibration issue since the pack/pump were moved back 1". Check for interference/anything touching pump/plumbing. Usually holding the problematic area will let you know where the problem is.
Very nice noise by the way, bearing or something stuck in the impeller could be other options.
To me it sounds like a nature2 stick rubbing the front of impeller.
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Currently refurbing a 2009 PDC spa. Previous owner had pack replaced (aeware xm2 w/k600. p1 2sp, p2 1sp, p3 1sp, blower.) Pump 3 never worked. I used LL21 programing to enable proper spa config pump now works, but I can only run p2 or p3. Not all pumps at once. (Even on 60a setting)
I'm thinking I may need a factory in.stick to get the proper program loaded. When talking to tech line they told me to use LL4 which i believe is 2 pumps with a circ. Obviously not the right setup. I dont mind the gecko packs, but I am more of a balboa guy.
Also never seen a regular spa that would not run all jet pumps.
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Flashing FLO means the flow switch is in the open position when the spa is calling for heat. Since you have changed the filters (I would remove them first), and flow switch the only thing left is the circulation pump. Could be airlocked, or failed. (smaller pump plumbed into heater, hot = definite failure) Save the temp sensor for when the spa goes into watchdog ----. If it is a Laing pump, 3yrs life span average.
Spa is maintain heat thru freeze protection (jet pumps running)
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Since the fuse is good, check the dip switches on the side of control pack. There should be one to select fiber optic / spa light. Confirm proper selection. Topside has 4 small bulbs that can be replaced from the underside, small standard screwdriver. If it is still not working I am leaning towards board. Only replaced 1 of those transformers due to home owners wiring. So you know that topside is obsolete (MAS560 control), and requires a retro kit. Watch how much you put into the control, when the time comes.
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Unplug pumps black wire then start spa, if high speed works... You need to replace the bad relay, or change circuit board. Depending on your skill level that is.
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Does anyone make these 1 1/2" return jet eyeballs fittings in a blue plastic? I have white currently, and I think I've seen black/gray.
Part number: SP1419
Thanks Ken
White, black, and grey are the only colors available
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I have sold a few since 2008-2010. So far the are reliable with the exception of the topside panel fogging up, and needing replacement. One downside to the Amore Bay is the tri fold cover. It costs more for a replacement, and it puts alot of stress on a lifter due to its weight.
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Short answer, you are testing with strips which are not reliable. Also strips do not test calcium hardness but TOTAL (calcium and magensium) hardness. In addition, why are you worrying about CH in an acrylic spa?
That is really an issue forplaster spas.
Post some reliable test results and we can take it from there.
Actually I am running a computer test, I finally got around to retesting and it came back down to the 190 range. Getting all worked up for nothing. Thank you anyways.
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I am looking for a little information reguarding a customer I am currently working with. I was out to his house a few months ago because he had water chemistry questions. (He has had the spa for 8 years...caldera kaui) The long story short, he was not testing & he was overly using walmarts calcium hypo... I got the customer on the right track. Gave him test strips spa frog mineral pack, and bioguards enhanced shock.He had ph/alk.
On 1/31/11 he brought in a water sample (Total Chlorine = 0 Free Chlorine = 0 PH = 8.2 ALK = 140 TH = 170) This is his tap water nothing added. Close enough, good to go.
2/14/11 He brought in another sample. (total chlorine = 0, free chlorine = 0, PH = 8, ALK = 167 TH = 1801) He mentioned there was fall out in the tub, this is actually his filter that was falling apart from the over use of the calhypo which I told him to replace, but he has not.
For the second sample I could see the chlorine levels being 0 due to the use of the mineral stick, and improper maintenance. My question is what could cause the calcium to go through the roof in a matter of 2 weeks? I will be calling him to find out more details, any ideas? I am going to retest to confirm numbers.
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Soak and clean your filter first. Filters can look "good", but limit water flow if clogged with body oils etc. Could be a pump if it is not running (low speed or circ), or a temp sensor.
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I just had my new Artesian Pelican Bay installed today. I'm looking to find what is the best cover lifter. I would prefer one that didn't have me screwing anything into the cabinet.
Thanks,
Richard
To put your mind at rest we have had our cover lifter screwed to our cabinet from the day it was installed. The screws have not worked loose and it is secure today as it has always been. We had our spa installed in April 2007.
Any leisure concepts product I would reccomend. Preferably the CMI or CMIII. These will work on any spa as long as it does not have cut corners. I've been using these for 8 years. The only bad ones I see are when the cover is shot, and it bends or breaks.
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I have a 1998 sundance spa, control panel model 850 dual pump, the heater works, the ozone works, but the control panel is frozen, display works but I cannot turn pumps on, or change temp settings. I tried shutting off power, and disconnected control panel from circuit board. Any way to confirm control panel before I spend money for new one.
I would first check to see if the control panel is locked. Should be an Icon displayed if it is. Refer to owners manual to turn off. Should have a temp lock and a panel lock...
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I am not a sales person, but a tech. You get what you pay for. I would look into the construction of the spa, and what kind of warrany/service you can get. If your dealer is a "tool" I would find another dealer. The company I work for stopped selling caldera in '02, however I feel they are a top of the line spa. My parents have one that has been running strong for 6 years. I would also select a spa shell that is not a smooth finish, make sure there is a little texture. Smooth ones are prone to blisters and crazing.
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Any error messages? Have you tried removing the filter? Is the spa in economy? You are a little vague for me to reply.
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Hi,
My hottub shown above has an odd problem.
The heat works fine after I turn off/reset the circuit breaker. After about 12 hours of run time everything works fine, except no heater. The pump will go on as if the heater is running, but no heat.
If I reset the breaker it works fine for the next half day then the same thing happens.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Mark
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Sounds like the thermal overload is tripping on the motor. VS packs have a 15-20 min auto shutoff for the "jet Speed" of the pump. Once it turns off you can just turn it back on. Perhaps the pump/motor was not sized correctly for the application.
How long is the filtration set for? If it is to excessive the pump may overheat from running to much.
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If you swapped capacitors, where did you swap them from? Unless they are new replacements, or the old ones were tested. I would not rule that out, sizes are critical. If ya want to save a buck. Worse case the windings are burnt. If that is the case I would confirm relays are not sticking on the circuit board, so you do not toast a new pump.
Caldera uses aquaflo FMXP2 pumps. Select the correct voltage / speeds / HP, and you are good. They are excellent pumps in my opinion. I still have 10 year old spas in the field and the seals have not been changed. If you can believe that.
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If the FLO is flashing you either have dirty filters which was mentioned earlier, or a bad circ pump. Do you have water flow out of the circ return in the footwell of the spa? It should be moving water as long as it is calling for heat. If you have a FLO2 the flow switch is stuck in the closed position, and locks out the spa. However I dont believe your problem is the latter.
bubble/blister
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Never seen a blister leak, cosmetic finish. Feel the lip of your spa shell it may be 1/4" thick.
Repair requires grinding out and using epoxy or a repair kit. There are acrylic repair guys that may be able to do that.