Jump to content

tampagrl70

Members
  • Posts

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by tampagrl70

  1. I have had two different dealers telling me two different things about getting full foam.

    I live in Los Angeles and one says you "Absolutely do not need it because 90% of heat evaporates from the top. For the little bit that evaporates through the sides, which would be about $2.00 every month, it is worth it to be able to access the equipment whenever needed. If there are leaks it is very difficult to find them with full foam."

    A dealer from a different company that has many tubs with full foam already installed said "It is absolutely needed even in LA because it makes a huge difference in energy efficiency."

    Very confused! Thoughts anyone?

    I got the full foam option with my Marquis Everyday 660. While it may be true that the milder climate means less benefit from the full foam, we in the LA area suffer some of the highest marginal KW-hr rates in the nation (.39 in my highest tier, IIRC). So, the cost of inefficiency is big in this area.

    Secondly, I have read that the foam actually serves to provide stability by restricting movement of the internal plumbing and may actually help to prevent leaks. I guess it makes sense that it might reduce vibration around the jets and their plumbing joints.

    I had a Sundance for over 20 years that was fully foamed and it never had a leak until its end of life. Because of other failures (heater/pump and/or control panel) I never started troubleshooting the leak.

    From what I understand, it isn't all that much harder for a pro to troubleshoot a leak in a foamed spa. For me, exposing the sides of the spa will be a bigger issue if that happens as I have mine buried in a deck.

    lol your evaporation of water comes from not sealing it with a proper cover and that is a fact! The problem with full insulation and I cant believe anyone is doing that anymore i KNOW PL (Premium Leisure) doesnt for sure (i go to that factory) but sounds like the R factor is important due to your high energy in LA (i dont live there so I dont know) The problem with insulating is if you spring a leak it will be a mess and time before finding it. This is the MAIN reason they are insulating before plumbing spas. I know these other comments are great from very skilled men but I know what I am talking about too I been doing this for 7 yrs and seen and heard it all. Food Color ever so softly in the water in front of each jet without making a ripple in the water to determine where a leak is (ever so gently!)

    Jen

  2. I have had two different dealers telling me two different things about getting full foam.

    I live in Los Angeles and one says you "Absolutely do not need it because 90% of heat evaporates from the top. For the little bit that evaporates through the sides, which would be about $2.00 every month, it is worth it to be able to access the equipment whenever needed. If there are leaks it is very difficult to find them with full foam."

    A dealer from a different company that has many tubs with full foam already installed said "It is absolutely needed even in LA because it makes a huge difference in energy efficiency."

    Very confused! Thoughts anyone?

    New Spas do not come insulated like the old ones cause that information is correct, your main loss is from the top so the cover is going to be very important and you shouldnt have an issue with the R factor on that since you live in LA. I say just get "foam in a can" from home depot if you want to insulate :)

    Jen

  3. Dirty or old spa filter cartridge will cause that blockage and give you the DR error code. remove the filter cartridge and leave it out. make sure you are powered down for at least 1/2 hr to reset the memory and start up. daily usage should use 2 spa filters a year for the proper coverage per every 1 filter. Also this can happen if your filter cartridge has too much SqFt.

  4. When we had a company "class" a couple of years ago, one of the store managers, trying to get pool service guys to be more productive and introduce them to some of the "easier" repair jobs, said that you should "be able to change a pump seal in 20 minutes."

    Never mind that he was accustomed to doing it in the store, without sweat dripping in his eyes and the sun blazing down on his neck, and having done it 1000 times.

    Like most pool and spa repairs, a pump seal IS a fairly easy repair, under good circumstances. Unfortunately, circumstance are not always good.

    The dually pumps are somewhat more involved than a regular pump, but if you can do one of those, you can handle a dually. I'm not really all that experienced with them, but I have replaced the motor on one and the pump seals on another, so it CAN be done.

    But it is like any other pump with respect to taking it apart. Sometimes they just simply don't like to come apart. Thru-bolts get broken off in the wet-end, impellers break 75% of the time at least, frustration.

    I am not a CalSpa salesman or rep or even tech. I work on them against my will for the most part. But you don't just throw out the pump instead of replacing a pump seal (as much as I would like to sell someone a new pump) without at least making an effort. If you would do that for a dually, why not any other spa pump?

    +1

    Have to be careful removing the impellers because the reverse impeller is not available. It was for a short time but not anymore.. As for the Dually that was pulled and brought back by popular demand because lol its almost to impossible to put 2 pumps in there. That Dually may not be avail forever! unfortunately

    Seals are easy to change just be careful removing the impeller

  5. Hello,

    I'm new to this forum, and somewhat new to spa's. I hope you guys can help me out.

    I have an emerald cygnus 2002, it has two aqua flow pumps. The 2nd pump impeller broke recently and I’m trying to find a replacement.

    The pump is an Aqua flo AC or C series, the impeller part number 91692251 is no longer available (obsolete). The only place I could find a reference to the impeller is here: http://www.spaparts.com.au/products/Aquaflo-C-Series-2.0-hp-impeller.html

    The motor works fine and I’d like to either replace the impeller or complete wet end.

    The motor/pump specs are:

    230Vdc

    2HP

    48 frame

    2 speed

    2in outlet, 3in inlet (I could modify to 2in inlet)

    Could the aqua flo XP2 pump be a viable replacement?

    Thanks, Stu

    Stu,

    Aquaflo changed the design of the wetend about 6 years ago so if the impeller is gray you MUST replace the entire wetend.. Aqua Flo is the only name true to Horsepower rating and also you need to cautious about buying aquaflo as many people are substituting with waterway knock off version (dont be mistaken)

  6. After three short weeks, my Costco CSXi80 spa arrived yesterday. I hired a local spa mover to move the spa from my driveway to my back porch.

    Now, I am just waiting on the electrician to come out and wire everything up.

    The electrician's proposal was to run the wire from my outside box to the GFCI using PVC pipe, run along the base of my house. I've attached a picture to explain. His proposed route in in RED.

    Does this seem like a good way to run the wire? He said the PVC is designed to withstand impact, so my weedwacker and lawnmower shouldn't cause any problems. He said this is an easier method than digging a trench, so it will be a cost savings to me.

    I'd appreciate your feedback before I go this route.

    The line in GREEN was my other option for going through the soffit. Still not sure if this is an option either.

    Thanks!

    FLMatt

    SpaWiring.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...