Spa_Guru
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Posts posted by Spa_Guru
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Type of spa? Two speed or single speed cuirc pump? Throw us a bone here.
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You didn't mention any voltage checks, I will assume from what you say the board is likely not getting voltage to the pump -- check fuses first, the clicking means the topside works, if the fuses are good, odds are the high speed relay is toast on the board, contact Spokane Spas (google it) for repairs.
By the way, the value of your spa ( in working order ) on the used market is $3-4K. A service tech will probably replace the board ($800+) Spokane Spas does in-shop repair of boards.
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Bypassing any safety device to use your spa isn't smart.
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What you want to do is use smooth wall CPVC tubing, not PVC flex, place the Mazzei as close to the pump as is practical. LA Spas at one point (they may still) had a large network of 1" PVC with 90's plumbed on one side of the spa for this purpose, Dimension One and Marquis used a pipe within a pipe type mixing chamber - bottom line was, maximum contact with the water before release into the spa, as Ozone (O3) reverts to Oxygen (O2) when it has done it's job. Going thru repeated loops of CPVC is the simplest way to accomplish this in a retro-fit.
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It could be that some of their product gets rebranded before it is sold, I did see them listed as creditors in the bankruptcy documents of some spa companies. (I tend to do searches of companies names + Bankruptcy) Oddly enough the amount listed was "Up to $1,000,000" so it is possible they have a practice of selling under other companies that are throw-away names that are used to ditch warranty claims every 2-3 years. I have no evidence of it. But odd, yes.
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Check the switch with one lead disconnected, you should get an open circuit (infinite ohms) with the pumps (or entire spa) off. If you don't, get a new switch. It should show a closed circuit (zero ohms) with the cuirc pump running. If you don't, retest without the filter in. You have not mentioned the method you used to clean your filter, or how old the filter is.
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What you are doing by most arguments is not ideal, as for off-gassing, a Mazzei does not produce ozone, it merely introduces it into the water, if you want to reduce off-gassing, you want the ozone to stay on contact with the water as long as possible before reaching the surface, one way to do this is to run the water thru 20 ft or so of coiled pipe (kind of a tight fit in your equipment area) before it is introduced into the jet it comes out of.
As for whether a bulb style or CD style produces more ozone, well, I'd bet we could get salesmen to argue all day as to which is better based on what their brand uses. Here is where Pros like me get tired of giving advice (no offense meant here), I don't want to waste time arguing with everyone in the spa industry to prove I am right in the process of giving free advice that I charge $149/hr for in people's back yards. :-) Take my advice, follow it explicitly, and you will get the expected results. Altho off-gassing does occur, the damage it does is nothing compared to excessive sanitizer use I usually see.
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Based on you knowing how to not kill yourself working on the system, start by disconnecting your Ozonator (should be a plug) and see if it runs properly, then if it does not, disconnect your heater element. The model of spa equipment you have would help with pinpoint answers.
After looking up a Master Spas owners manual, even tho it does not show a main panel, it looks to be Balboa components, if so, your heater should be a stainless steel tube mounted with or near the control box. Is this correct?
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Get your control box to Spokane Spas, they will fix it for you.
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Once you get your new cover you may want to consider tarping the tub with a cheap $10 8'x8' brown or blue plastic tarp, then the sun will tear it up & you can get a new one every year & save your cover.
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Your tech must be a moron, a voltage test to the pump would either show voltage to the pump or not and differentiate between the two.
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Devcon Plasti-weld works too, when the epoxy is first put in a cloth and then zip tied in place it works pretty well.
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Depending on location, it is either a line designed to act as a priming bleed hose or a way of joining the pump to a second pump to ensure proper filtration. No harm done by capping it off.
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I occasionally get service calls where spas have been sitting for years with all manner of residue on them, you can always get the residue off, but you can't put color back that no longer exists.
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Yes, in order to get any meaningful amount of Ozone into your spa water you need to put the Mazzei injector in the 3/4" tubing that is part of the cuirc/heater circuit. I would recommend plumbing it between the heater and the discharge jet in the spa, this prevents ozone damage/excessive air to the heater. The purpose of mounting the Mazzei higher up is not necessarily to have it above the water level, the injector draws more efficiently with less overhead static pressure, and the cuirc pump isn't exactly a powerhouse. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect
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Sounds like it is time for new O-rings in the diverter valve, or the valve itself could be cracked.
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Corroded connections on the board tells me you are getting water on your electronics, this is usually from heater unions or a pump seal, run the pump on high speed while watching the equipment and check for leaks.
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It has been my experience that the much-maligned chemical Chlorine is often the simplest to use, and by far the cheapest and fastest to disinfect with. Where I see customers go wrong with it is drastic overdosing. First they ignore the tub for a couple weeks (or longer), open the cover and -OMG- it looks gross, so they pitch in a half cup of chlorine and :::POOF::: and hour later the water looks spectacular, so they jump in to enjoy their tub, get eye and skin irritation from the 50+ PPM levels, blame the irritation on a "chlorine allergy" and spend hundreds of dollars and countless hours pursuing whatever magic bullet sanitizing system the local spa shop pushes off on them.
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All of your amp readings are normal, there is an issue with the breaker or how tight the wire was screwed down. Replace the breaker and any portion of the wire (hopefully there is a little extra in the box) that was discolored by overheating.
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Check the large paper fuse on the mother board.
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Calcium will not harm the tub in any way. If you use dry calcium, pre-dissolve it in a Pyrex container as it creates a lot of heat as it dissolves.
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The easiest way to remove the residue, if in fact, it is residue, is to run your PH at 6.0-6.5 for a day following refilling the spa, if it is residue, it will dissolve. Usually the texture would be rough, but I can't tell from the photo.
How To Add An Ozonator To An Old Spa And What Kind Is Best
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
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You are most welcome.