dscriterium
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Posts posted by dscriterium
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It is possible Gvillepool is asking about tiling his entire pool. If so, that cannot be done.
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steinbej,
Often, the "sulfur" or "rotten egg" smell from well water is the result of a harmless bacteria that can exist and thrive at certain temps.
As others have said, shocking the pool with chlorine (if it is a chlorine pool) will very likely eliminate it.
Shocking an indoor pool is a little more problematic than outdoors. Posting the set of test results requested by quantum will be really helpful.
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I think you may have more than one issue going on in your pool. How often do you check pH and where does it usually fall?
Your brother can work this tile just like kitchen tile (well, almost) and any of the old tile you can get clean enough is reusable.
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I think Pool Clown is on the right track......that it is a suction fitting and, as such, will not require the same sturdiness if it were on the pressure side.
They make friction-fit "splicing" fittings that will screw down and seal two sections of rigid PVC.
Glue on a male threaded fitting on the end of the flex and then a female matching fixture on a 1' section of rigid. This will give you a rigid end of the flex which you can then take down and attach to the rigid end protruding from the dam.
Those two rigid ends can then be coupled with the "splicing" or "repair" fitting.
I have used that "repair" fitting on the pressure side of a pool but that may be far less psi (15-20) than your irrigation pump will produce
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Jules_bike,
What will be your energy source for heat? Gas, Electric, etc? What size is your proposed pool?
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I would do what it takes to have a light. The aesthetic effect alone is worth it. There is a safety issue as well for night swimming. The floodlights won't work.
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That could be tough to solve. I don't have experience that this would work but you might consider taping a weight on the inside of the weir to make it less bouyant. It's a quick, cheap experiment and if it works, the weight could be mounted permanently with epoxy.
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I'm not sure you would experience those benefits. An SWG is nothing more than a chlorine generator....that's it. It's the same chlorine as if you put Clorox in your pool.the benefit I would want would be better smell, skin feel and Epsom salt benefitsThe "better feel" of the saltwater may have some merit but many detect no difference. The smell should be the same....virtually nil.
What an SWG DOES provide in large quantities is convenience and I think it should be viewed with that primary benefit in mind.
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The CH test, the TA Test, FC and CC's test all end in the same manner.
You continue to count drops until there is no further color change, then subtract the last drop from your total count drop.
So an example would be...
drop 18 = still red
drop 19 = still red
drop 20 = starting to turn towards purple
drop 21 = virtually purple
drop 23 = almost all blue
drop 24 = blue
drop 25 = looks just like drop 24....no change
Your calcium hardness would be 240ppm
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It's the Total Alkalinity or TA that should be in the vicinity of 100. That said, TA readings of as low as 70 and higher than 140 have been reported in perfectly crystal clear pools so you have quite bit of latitude. Anyway, some people do an adjusted test but it is hardly worth the trouble as TA has such a wide acceptable range to begin with. I would leave it right where you are.
If you've experienced a constant pH rise, why don't you lower it to 7.2 before you close? 8.0 or above gets troublesome quickly. Other than shocking before you close (you can read how in Pool School @ troublefreepool.com), that should get you all set for the winter.
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While it doesn't hurt to add as much baking soda as you like (within some reason), I see no reason to adjust your TA. TA can vary widely but yours looks perfect around 100 or so. I would leave it where it is.
Secondly, your pH is just a little high but within an acceptable range of 7.2 - 7.8. Again, I would leave it alone unless it goes to 8.0 and then adjust it down to around 7.4
The test results look like a digital readout from test strips. I would not completely trust those results and would get another set from a different source or, best yet, get your own very good kit to test.
Assuming they are correct, the big problem in your pool is CYA. Staying off the tabs is a good start...it should dilute down some over the winter and hopefully, you can start next Spring around 50ppm.
The total hardness is not really important to pools but a component of that, calcium hardness, is what matters. Regardless, you are fine for now. The powder you were sold is probably Calcium hypochlorite which will add calcium to your pool anyway.
All in all, the only large issue with your pool is the excessive CYA. It sounds like you are about to close so it will not harm anything over the winter.
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30 minutes is generally long enough in both instances. An hour is overkill but testing without running prior will, in fact, give you questionable;e results.
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Yes, and an optional one at that. Many, many folks do not use an algaecide in either pools or hot tubs. Maintaining adequate chlorine levels eliminates the need.Is the algaecide just an insurance policy?That said, if your chlorinating regimen is a little undisciplined, algaecide can back you up nicely.
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Depending on how far off the wall it is, I would say it is absolutely not normal. If it's more than 1/8", I would consider it unsupported and in need of fixing.
ost pool corners are rounded, by the way. Is this a home-built pool?
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The stains need to be properly identified before a treatment can begin. Can you post a set of water test results? That will help identify the stain more quickly.
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Yep. I believe if OP posts a set of test results, we'll discover his free chlorine has gotten too low and that is dead (but recurring) algae on the pool floorBut if it continues to build up, it's something growing in the pool. -
After you lower the pH, (leave your TA alone, it's fine) I would bring the FC up to around 30-35ppm just before you leave. With that CYA, I wouldn't be surprised if you still have some residual 7 days later and may come back to a clear pool.
Of course, if you have a cover, put it on and elevate your FC only to about 10-12ppm. You should be in good shape when you return.
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Jeffro,
You are not keeping enough chlorine in your pool. Shocking your pool will get it crystal clear but shocking is a process that takes a while. You cannot clear the pool with a single dose of chlorine.
Shocking the pool properly involves bringing your FC up to around 15ppm or so FC and then making sure you keep it there by testing and adding more chlorine as often as you can but twice daily at the very least.
Secondly, while you are keeping your FC up around 15, you must brush and vacuum as frequently as practicable to keep everything stirred up. This will allow the filter to do it's job which means you must backwash/clean your filter as necessary
The whole shock process may take a few days but the result will be a crystal clear pool.
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For that pool and that CYA, a samll jug of Clorox put into the pool each day should be just about right. In fact, you should not have to shock if you will put that much in Daily. If your FC decreases over the next few days, increase the dosage just a little. If FC increase over the next few days, cut back a little on the Clorox.
I would dump the water in the Spring. Dumping algae into the street is perfectly harmless. Dumping it into your yard is probably better. Lot's of nutrients.
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Newbie,
The trichlor pucks have driven your CYA too high.
Likewise, the Cal-hypo shock has driven your Calcium pretty high also....manageable, though.
I know you knew that already but I am simply confirming it.
Tell me the size of your pool and I'll give you some help on figuring how much liquid chlorine you'll need.
Pool Deck - Pavers Over Concrete Or Crushed Rock
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
If you install pavers over the existing concrete (which would be my choice), how will you handle the increased deck height?
If you have that worked out, then laying first a thin bed of gravel/sand/etc. on the concrete and then the pavers might give you the best characteristics of both types of installation...........I just can't figure out how you can deal with that elevation.