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DaveR

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Posts posted by DaveR

  1. Those are great, but depending on the age, sometimes the 30 amp and 20 amp lines are reversed. If the tub uses two Wavemaster 7000 pumps, the diagram is perfect.

    But if it uses two Wavemaster 9000, or a Wavemaster 9000 and a Wavemaster 9200, the 20 and 30 amp lines are reversed.

    Those instructions appear to have been written in 1996, before they started using larger, amperage hungry jet pumps.

    go to http://www.backyardplus.com/and type in your serial number you can then download the owners manual for your tub. Great source for HS parts too.

  2. (very basic pool care for that matter!)

    Sorry I normally don't respond to this type of post but this hit me wrong.

    Was that comment really called for? It adds no value. If you feel someone needs to learn more, instead of making another comment like that, point them in the direction that is helpful, it would be more productive.

  3. From the owners manual - I'd just keep repeating. Usinging a brush may damage the titanium coating.

    I'd email Hotsprings support before trying anything.

    You could try something like Acid Magic even diluted it might be to strong and destroy your cell.

    If it gets to the point where it just won't clean then you might as well try the brush because you will be replacing it if you can't get it clean.

    Cell Cleaning

    Periodic cleaning of the ACE cell is recommended to maximize the life of your

    equipment. Use of the Vanishing Act calcium remover will help reduce the cleaning

    frequency. On average, the cell should be cleaned every 3 months. When the status

    message on the screen indicates Low Salt and the water has not been changed or

    topped off recently, it may be time to clean the cell.

    1. Turn off the power to the spa. Open the spa cover and remove the filter lid.

    2. Unscrew gray filter cap and gently pull the cell out of the filter.

    3. Unscrew the lid to the cleaning bottle included with the ACE system and fill with

    spa water to the fill-line indicated on the bottle. Add 1 tablespoon of pH down to

    the cleaning bottle and secure lid. Shake bottle to create cleaning solution.

    4. Remove the lid from the cleaning bottle. Place the cell in the bottle,

    ensuring that the bottom of cell is floating.

    5. Soak the cell for 10 minutes or until bubbles stop coming from the cell. If

    bubbles are still releasing from the cell after 10 minutes, change the

    cleaning solution and repeat.

    6. Replace cell into the filter standpipe. Screw on the gray filter cap, replace

    the filter lid, and power up the spa. Ensure that the cell is at the bottom of

    the filter standpipe by feeling for the pull of the pump’s suction.

  4. I am using insteon throughout my house they just posted this on their website.

    I wouldn't use the iPhone I'd use a waterproof an IR or RF remote which works with my insteon network too. I can run programs, either from my security system or the ISY I use to manage my insteon network.

    Might be a cheaper solution if my controller ever goes bad.

    Check out he complete article here clickhere

    110421R.jpg

  5. My bad I knew after I posted someone would ask.

    Test method(s) we have both the Taylor 2106 kit and a Lamotte ColorQ 7 I also kept my Octa-Slide

    I run the tub all jets on about 5 minutes before testing

    my targets

    TA between 90 and 125 - I always adjust first

    PH 7.4 to 7.8

    Calcium 150-350 - I don't test this very often

    TB 6

    Adjust based on what numbers are out of whack run tub for 15-20 minutes retest

    After heavy use I shock and hit the timer but don't test until we use again.

    Thanks.

    What are your current test results? What did you test with? The range of test results you gave is not really useful. You stated that they are you targets, not acutal test results. How often have you been out of the target range and on which tests?

    Test your water with the 2106 and post the results please. How often do you shock the tub and when you do does the tub run uncovered with all aeration going afterward for at least 30 minutes?\

    What are you using to oxidize (shock), chlorine, MPS, ozone, combination?

    Thanks in advance

    I am draining and repairing the seal and will follow the decontamination procedure and start from scratch. Given our schedules it might be a couple of weeks before we are up and running again.

    My sniffer isn't that great it smells metalic to me to my wife its like mildew.

    Not out of range that often and usually just barely. I tried to keep it in the middle of the range I gave.

    Last readings before drain were

    TA 100

    PH 7.6

    didn't take calcium reading the time before it was 200

    Bromine 4ppm

    We use MPS - during the winter I shut the cover right after adding MPS still ran it for 30 min though - possible issue?

    tub temp 104

  6. "Chemistry checks out"..."Tests are good", is useless information for anyone to try and help you.

    POST ACTUAL NUMBERS AND METHOD OF TESTING

    The smell is probably from the cover.

    The cover is new but I wondered if it could be the cover.

    My bad I knew after I posted someone would ask.

    Test method(s) we have both the Taylor 2106 kit and a Lamotte ColorQ 7 I also kept my Octa-Slide

    I run the tub all jets on about 5 minutes before testing

    my targets

    TA between 90 and 125 - I always adjust first

    PH 7.4 to 7.8

    Calcium 150-350 - I don't test this very often

    TB 6

    Adjust based on what numbers are out of whack run tub for 15-20 minutes retest

    After heavy use I shock and hit the timer but don't test until we use again.

    Thanks.

  7. Any ideas on the source of the odor?

    Tub sat for about a year. HS Grandee. We did a decontamination before filling - spaflush, chlorine soak etc.. Filters were replaced with Tri-X filters before final fill after decontamination. Chemistry checks out and a SPA service confirms our numbers (we are using bromine), water is clear and feels fine. Odor was there even after a couple of months, doesn't get any worse and water is still clear.

    We are going to do another decontamination when we drain and refill due to a seal leak on one of the pumps.

    Could it be high metal content? Last time we filled with city water and did not use soft water.

    Dave

  8. Dan, thanks for the input. I think I have it temporarily (Permanently?) licked! I started playing with it and noticed that if I left the heater plugged in, the lim and heater lights on the main panel would shut off and shut down the tub after about 2 minutes. If I unplugged the heater and powered up, I didn't have the issue. I decided to remove the heater and make sure that nothing was clogging it up. Found nothing, but I emptied it completely and reinstalled. Now I have heat!!!! Not sure if something was plugging it or not, but I am happy for the heat. I figure I will probably have to replace the heater (and circ. pump) soon, but hope that I have bought a little time anyway!

    Sounds like there may have been an air lock.

  9. If the price is right on the 1998 HS Sovereign you can't go wrong. If they are doing the refurb you should be able to get some kind of warranty. I love my '97 HS Grandee. I'd expect to pay anywhere from $2,500-$4,500(w/cover) depending on the condition and warranty they offer.

    Dave

  10. is there a particular section you are looking for (just heater part #'s), or do u need the whole thing?

    I would prefer to get the whole thing for reference as I set this up. Thanks

    If you go to BackyardPlus and put in your serial number you will be able to download a scanned copy of the manual.

    Here is the link for the pdf manual of all 1993 hotspring models

    http://www.backyardplus.com/pdf/owners_manuals/hot_spring/1993_Scanned_Hot_Spring_%20Owners_%20Manual.pdf

    Dave

  11. I agree with DaveR. I went through this installing my newest spa and when I checked the code where I live it is less than 50 feet and more than 5 feet. The installation instructions that came with the spa simply said it should be in the vicinity of the spa but not closer than 5 feet from the waters edge.

    That's really important the measurement is from the waters edge not the connection point.

    Dave

  12. You might want to check your local code. From memory I thought there was a maximum distance from the tub to the disconnect (maybe 15 feet?), but I could be wrong. Anyway, you'd be well advised to check with your town.

    Most of the time it is <50ft and >5ft and must be in line of site. Some local codes the MAX is less than 50ft. Our local code is 50ft and just 5 miles away their code is 15ft.

  13. I agree with the other posts.

    Electrical hook-up can cost as little as $500 or as much as $2,000, if upgraded load center (200amp service) is needed.

    You also need to do pad prep if you don't have one already, and that can be as little as a 4-6 " of compacted class 5, as much as a new 4" inch concrete slab. So it's easy to see how you can have as anywhere from $500 to $3,000 tied up before you even get the tub.

    Make certain that any tub you look at you can test and take a look into the equipmet area for small leaks (usually pump seals).

    Good luck!

    Dave

  14. All these view and nobody has any insight? How about the dealers that sell this stuff?

    A friend has their Bromine generator that you toss in the tub he likes it but said he still has to test and add chemicals so he wouldn't buy it again knowing what he knows now.

    He has a high use situation - 4 teenage kids daily use.

    Having said that everyone that has the Ace system seems to like it. So for another $100 over the Freshwater III I'd take a gamble, but I like techie stuff and it's your money I gambling with. If you do it I want to know how it works because I might buy one too.

    My biggest concern would be how long they last.

    Dave

    here is an interesting read on salt water pools/spa mostly pool focused. They mention using an ozonator with the chlorine generator.

    http://phoenix.about.com/cs/wet/a/saltpool01.htm

  15. I'm searching for reason why I have jets working, but when heater comes on it trips breaker (60 amps)? Changed 3 Pole Contactor, still tripping breaker.

    Also, hooked up directly to 110 volt outside outlet, still tripped GFI breaker, any other scenarios?

    Thanks,

    David D.

    Need more info.

    Tub make model & year.

    Did this just start or is it the first time you started the tub.

  16. Dave, I never noticed your signature before. When did you start doing this stuff. I got turned on to it about 8-10 years ago but have dabbled a lot longer because of my plumbing experience. Seems we are both kinda thinking the same way. I messed with about 7 in 2010 and have 2 so far in 2011. I like to make myself available for tub disposal. Lately it seems the disposals are just that, disposals. Not to many decent tubs available for free. That's OK it's winter and my full time job has me taxed.

    Your right, this could be a part time retirment gig. But ya need a couple young guys on standby. These things seem heavier than they used to be???

    Sorry for the OT

    Roger,

    I just added the sig. a week ago.

    My nephew is in the business and has no time to deal with disposals/rebuilds but he comes across tubs from time to time. Some are really old and not even good for parts but many have some value left. The owners would rather give them away than have the dealer offer to take them off their hands for free or worse having to pay for removal.

    As far as moving them I really screwed up last summer someone sold all their spa moving equipment on CraigsList for very little money. I do have a couple of young bucks available when I need them (son-in-laws). It's amazing what you can do with 10'x6" schedule 80 used as rollers.

    Dave

  17. If you want information on warranty or information on premium builder , go to the web site and the bottom

    http://www.ecosmartspas.ca/

    I am bored so I followed up.

    Nice website really easy to navigate good info on product including some service data, but no warranty information other than the online registration form which must be sent in within 7 days after installation. The only place I saw reference to a warranty was in the product manual on features chart it says "3 (Three) Year Warranty" - there was no detailed info. on what that means.

    Just for fun I went to 7 other brands and found the detailed warranty info on their websites without any trouble usually a pdf document.

    Dave

  18. Sorry I took so long to reply back, been trying to fix the hot tub between working 14 hr days. I ran into another problem trying to disconnect the heater to see if the spa would still kick out after 30 seconds. when I tried to disconnect heater the black heater wire prong where is connects onto the circuit board was brown from overheating and prong won't come off looks to be melted on, I think this is probably the problem won't know for sure until I'm able to get the prong off without breaking solder on circuit board, but now trying to figure out what could have caused it, any suggestions? I want to THANK EVERYONE for taking the time to respond to my post I really appreciate it. Laird

    Loose connections/wires can cause overheating and eventually fried wires like you describe.

  19. Got up early and had a soak early yesterday before work, temp gauge said -23F. After about 10 min I jumped in the big pile of snow along side the tub and back in, seemed like a good idea at the time. Actually it was fun. What's the lowest temp you've taken a dip?

    Dave

    Your in MPLS aren't you? I had -33 on my thermometer Thursday night. Balmy -9 right now.

    Yes, Actually southern burb, Lakeville, and it's currently -17. Trying to get my wife to go out, she not having it.

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