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JAAS

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Posts posted by JAAS

  1. Saw this while looking for a new test kit.. I'm pretty sure this is a waste of 20 good dollars.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/PH-Tester-Swimming-Pool-Spa-Water-Chlorine-Water-Test-/180376815935?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item29ff4bc93f#ht_3306wt_935

    I'm looking for an alternative to the color based test since I have difficulty matching the colors (thanks to Protanopia). So if anyone knows I'm all ears (or eyes)

  2. ALWAYS test your existing salt level first. Then refer to the chart that comes with the unit to add the required amount to bring it up to 3200ppm. Save 2 or 3 bags and let it run for 24 hours. Then add the rest, referring again to the chart. If you over salt you'll have to drain & refill to lower it. Then bring your Cyanuric Acid up to 80 ppm. Better test for Phosphates also since your cell is under sized. Use Phos-X or No Phos to make sure the level is Zero.

    Lol.. just when I tought things where becoming easier.. :(

    I've never tested for phosphates.. I don't even think I have a kit to test for that..

    I iknow I need to buy a kit to test for CYA and another for salt... which are from what I understand from reading the forums (please correct me if wrong) are the two most important things to keep an eye on with SWG pools.

    I already have one for ph/cl/total alk/acid demand

    I'm assuming another kit entirely different is needed for phosphates right?

    I would have the water tested for phosphates at the pool store rater than buy a test kit.

    Great.. I can get them the water to test when I'm ready to buy the salt. They sell the 80pounds bag at about $20.. Is that what it usually sells by?

  3. ALWAYS test your existing salt level first. Then refer to the chart that comes with the unit to add the required amount to bring it up to 3200ppm. Save 2 or 3 bags and let it run for 24 hours. Then add the rest, referring again to the chart. If you over salt you'll have to drain & refill to lower it. Then bring your Cyanuric Acid up to 80 ppm. Better test for Phosphates also since your cell is under sized. Use Phos-X or No Phos to make sure the level is Zero.

    Lol.. just when I tought things where becoming easier.. :(

    I've never tested for phosphates.. I don't even think I have a kit to test for that..

    I iknow I need to buy a kit to test for CYA and another for salt... which are from what I understand from reading the forums (please correct me if wrong) are the two most important things to keep an eye on with SWG pools.

    I already have one for ph/cl/total alk/acid demand

    I'm assuming another kit entirely different is needed for phosphates right?

  4. Just got a deal for a full system with Tcell15 for just $700!!

    Will try that first.

    Thanks everyone

    Now.. off to get a truckload of salt..

    Don't go crazy and add all the salt at one time. add 3/4 of and let it circulate for at least 24 hours. Look at the reading in the box and get your self a good salt water tester then add more if needed. It is always easier to add more then if get salt level to high

    Thanks for the tip.. thought about that.. only I thought about half..

    42000gallons.. should be about 20 salt bags right?

  5. Hi guys/girls, hope everyone is doing fine.

    I'm considering changing my pool to a salt system. Only problem is that it is a very big pool..

    At 20' x 40' and 4'- 10' deep I'm calculating about 42800Gallons..

    I've seen the Aqua Rite system but the TCell 15, which seems to be the biggest capacity cell, is for pools up to 40k gallons.. and I've read the manuals and it states that for larger pools to get an additional system.. smallest one is listed for 15k gallons.

    My question is... is it really necessary to add a second unit for those extra 2,800 gallons? Or can a single Tcell15 handle the job?

    I'm really tired of fighting with chems.

    Thanks in advance..

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