polyvue
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Posts posted by polyvue
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The initial cure of the plaster (60%) takes place during the first 28 days. During this time, it is crucial not to "traumatize" plaster. Also during this time, you are most likely adding acid and brushing the pool frequently to promote an even cure. Basically, you want to give the plaster and water enough time to stabilize before adding salt. Adding salt to soon will throw everything off; TDS, Calcium levels, pH and Alkalinity, etc... This will often result in an uneven cure or discolorations as well as scale.
I have a pool thats just been resurfaced with diamond brite. can I add chlorine? I have some desert granules which has cya in it also. they say to use this when starting up pools.
I read it needs to circulate 24/7 for 3 days before adition of chlorine.
When can people go in the pool. I met like 20 people in the pool today and I didn't even get a chance to turn the system on. its on now but would bouncing up and down in the pool cause the surface to get "uneven"?
How long has it been since the replaster job? It's important to keep pH in check, of course. If you have people already swimming, turn on the pump, add some liquid chlorine so that it registers on your test kit and start balancing the water based on full test results. After you have pH, Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness where you want it, then you can either A.) add 50 ppm or so cyanuric acid and start up the SWG -OR- B.) don't add CYA, leave the SWG off and use the "desert granules" (I'm assuming these are trichlor or dichlor so you're applying both chlorine and CYA).
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The contractor is also an exclusive Bioguard dealer. Being newbie's to this, we are following his instructions however there have been a few bumps along the way. Needless to say that once we figure out and get more comfortable with water chemistry, we can cut the umbilical cord.
We followed these instructions to get our pool going (all Bioguard of course):
Our saturation index is -0.45 so we have been instructed to add "Burn-Out", "Polygard", "Stabilizer 100", "Balance Pak 100" and lastly "Balance Pak 300". This is over the course of 4 days.
Lastly is the salt but they have given us the Bioguard Mineral Springs "Beginnings". We didn't think anything of this until we had time to do some research on salts on the internet. We thought salt was salt but apparently we bought gold. Luckily, we haven't paid for it yet so I think it is going back and that is why I'm posting.
I am of the opinion I just need salt (ie. Sifto brand in Ontario). Are there any comments regarding this Mineral Springs product vs salt? It is being marketed as a 'spa' experience and all we are looking for is a great pool experience which is easy on the skin. As well, are we tying ourselves too tightly to this Bioguard regimen by the dealer? He is one of the few (if not only) water test places in town and we don't want to get adversarial with him post pool warranty.
It's curious that Bioguard sells a salt product in two flavors ("Beginnings" and "Renewal"), the latter being priced more closely with regular old pool salt and the first at double the price. Since many (all?) Bioguard products are rebranded generic chemicals that can be had for less money, it would make sense to document the constituents and to buy generic or less costly brands (see this thread). I'd look around for where you can get regular pool salt (sodium chloride) or any bulk salt that doesn't have additives (rust inhibitors, idiode). In the US pool salt is typically priced at US$5.00-$10.00 for 40 lbs. But I think if you check hardware stores it can be had for even less money.
Though it's certainly understandable that you want to maintain a relationship with the pool store, you'll have to determine whether the services they provide are worth the high cost of products. Since doing your own testing can free you from having to visit so often, why not invest in a test kit and do it yourself? The Taylor K-2006 FAS/DPD kit is available in Canada and that would be one I'd recommend.
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Looking at the EcoSmarte system because my kids have incredibly sensitive skin. Does anybody have experience using this system and would you recommend it? the other system is an ionizing system where you put these egg looking things in the skimmer. That just seems too simple for it to work. Suggestions?
I can't possibly improve on the answer provided by chem geek, who has been writing about and exploring the chlorine / CYA relationship on these forums for a number of years. Here's another perspective, my (corroborative) take on the chlorine vs. sensitive skin issue that is based on my personal experience and opinion as much as it is an understanding of the science.
Exposure to chlorine and its disinfection byproducts shouldn't be a concern in an outdoor pool that has the right amount of chlorine in combination with stabilizer (CYA), since the active chlorine is stored (I like the term, embargoed) until it is needed to oxidize the contaminants that humans and the environment bring in to the pool. On the other hand, the halogens and other aerosol chemicals that bombard us in the shower combined with the myriad hazardous substances from manufacturing processes, many unstudied, that we regularly ingest or inhale may be making some of us sick.
Even people who suffer from dermatitis (skin irritation related to atopic, contact or neural eczema, allergies, and environmental causes), who can't abide scented laundry detergents, bleach additives, and perfumed soaps, should have no issues swimming in properly chlorinated pool water. I speak from experience here. While one never knows what's in a public pool or how it's being sanitized, you can control the chlorine/CYA in your own pool.
Mineral systems are problematic at the high levels needed to adequately sanitize water. Introducing copper or silver metal ions could exacerbate pre-existing allergies. [i'm not a physician; this is just my opinion and one reason why I would avoid them.] On firmer ground, I can say that metals in solution (i.e., in your pool) can also come out of solution. In these circumstances, you'll see metal stains appear on your pool walls or floor. In solution, they can stain hair.
But swimming is great exercise and helps the immune system. You may want to consider installation of a salt water chlorine generator (SWG). Many people, including kids, like the feel of salt water... the SWG would enable you to maintain slightly lower levels of chlorine in the pool, as compared to what is required when relying on liquid chlorine or tabs/puck chlorinators. Hope some of this helps in your decision.
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Hello;
I just had installed the Apollo CPC Fiberglass pool. It's 16' x 38' and has a capasity of 17,500 gallon. It is a Salt Water system.
My dealer brought me a Hayward C3025 Cartridge filter, but it seems kinda small for my size pool?
It hasn't been installed yet, so I was thinking of telling him I want the Hayward C5025.
Does anybody know which Hayward filter is best for my size pool.
I also have a 1HP Hayward Super Pump II.
Thanks.
Welcome here. Certainly the design flow rate and filtration area of the C3025 are sufficient for your pool. See the chart on this page.
But there's nothing wrong with upsizing it! I rather insisted that my pool builder install a much larger cartridge filter than what he was recommending for my 14,000 gallon pool -- it was money well spent. I clean my monster cartridges only once a year and never because of pressure increase due to dirt or poor filtration.
Go for the C5025
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I was just wondering how much did you project cost. I know every ones pool project is different but I am curious. How much was the pool vs the additional items?
Welcome to the forum. The size and depth of the pool, installation and delivery costs in different regions, soil type and equipment will all impact project cost. If you provide a few specifics about where you live and what your dream pool should include, you may encourage folks who have installed pools in your area to share with you their thoughts and experiences. If fiberglass, do you have in mind a particular model or manufacturer?
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Just curious - IC40 is reading ~500ppm higher than my AquaChek white strips. I'll trust the strips, but don't recall experiencing such a wide discrepancy over the past 3 years. Will wait a day or two and re-test before adding salt.
Be careful about adding salt based on what salt test strips tell you! I think Pool Clown's suggestion to verify with a digital salt (or TDS/salt) meter is good advice because the Pentair controller and digital meter both measure conductivity. You could also employ a drop test.
Last summer my AquaChek white strips consistently reported salt at 800-1000 PPM higher than the controller managing my SWG cell. This discrepancy was driving me crazy and was only resolved by purchasing an inexpensive drop-test kit (see sources, below) and later, verifying the drop test with a borrowed TDS/Salt digital meter. Result: The Taylor salt water test and the SWG controller were (and continue to be) in perfect agreement, always within 200 ppm of each other.
AquaChek's white strips and the Taylor drop test both use a silver nitrate reaction to measure chloride in the sample water. The salt test strips, though they worked for me a long time, did not prove to be reliable. For a more nuanced discussion, refer to this thread.
Taylor K-1766 Sodium Chloride Kit
Taylor Technologies, Inc.
Description: Drop Test, Chloride (salt water) $23.70
Aquatic Technology (aka Poolweb.com)
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For the other two types of filters, check your cartridges thoroughly for any tears in the fabric, or a torn or missing venturi screen. Either of these problems will allow dirt or DE back into the pool.
I'm not sure what the venturi screen (aka "air tube screen") is supposed to accomplish in these filters. It may interest you to know that Hayward's newer cartridge filters seem to have dispensed with the venturi screen altogether. I don't know the reason for this change.
Last week, when I discovered that the screen, fitted at the top of the air tube, on my Hayward SwimClear C4025 was broken (the mesh was torn off) I ordered a replacement. Formerly know as the Air Relief Tube and Air Tube Screen CX4000Z3, it's now called the Air Relief Tube Assembly CX4000Z3 (but commonly identified as part #11) and is just a hollow plastic tube -- no venturi screen! This prompted me to research newer SwimClear models. All of the models I looked at had the tube, sans screen.
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Hello pool geeks, I had an algae problem when I opened my pool last year, a rip in the cover allowed debris in. After your assist in getting it clear and maintaining my FC, I battled not very clear water last year. Numbers were good just not crisp clear water. Everytime I vacuumed the fine dust just came back into the pool. Looks as it goes right through the filter. When I opened the pool this week it looks as the same dust is sitting on the bottom of the pool. Water was pretty clear (somewhat distored with fine yellow dust on the bottom) I vacuumed and the water turned milky, the dust is coming back into the water. I will go buy another filter for my Hayward but the one I'm using is only on its 2nd year. I tried a flocking last year too, but not much change. Do you have any more suggestions?! I hope! Thanks for your time.
Do you have an ABOVE-GROUND pool? (If so, wrong forum but that's OK -- just want to identify the equipment.)
I wonder if this is pollen...members from this and other forums have been reporting unexplained particles on the floor of their pool that appear soon after vacuuming. You might want to try netting the pool surface more often, vacuuming more often, adjusting the skimmer to take at least 75% suction (if there are other suction ports, that is), placing a skimmer sock in skimmer basket(s) to catch debris.
Inspect and clean the filter frequently, especially after vacuuming. If there is a pressure gauge at the filter, take readings before and after vacuuming. If the filter doesn't seem to be doing its job, it may be time for to replace the cartridge media. Or it could be gunked up with the chemicals used during spring cleaning. Check out the linked threads below for some really good procedural tips on best way to clean. If cleaning is not effectual, buy a new one.
http://www.poolforum...read.php?t=7299
http://www.troublefr...lter-t4465.html
Other thoughts: What does the water look like (clear, blue, sparkly... dull, listless, a bit cloudy)? Has the water been tested recently? What is the current level of Free Chlorine and CYA (cyanuric acid aka stablizer)?
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Hello all!
I am struggling mightily to get my 16x32 pool clean this spring. I am starting to wondering if the sand in my Pentair filter is the culprit?
The filter was in installed in 2004 and has been ran for the swimming seasons of:
2004-2007 and now 2009.
Should I change it?
Thank you so much!
How often do you backwash? What is the current PSI at the filter and what does the pressure gauge read normally? It sounds as though you may have had an algae problem (?) this spring and I was wondering if when you were cleaning the pool you vacuumed into the filter (rather then to waste) after the algae was killed. Dead algae or just dirt and debris may have clogged it. Before you commit to changing your sand I would perform an inspection of your sand filter. If it is channeled or very dirty, try reviving it per the following procedure.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/my-sand-is-channeled-how-to-fix-it-t7626.html
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Can anybody recommend an automatic pool cleaner and best (cheapest) place to buy. I want one that operates independently of pool pump and filter. thanks
As a fellow owner of a Polaris 280 I agree with BillinKingstonSprings on this model's reliabilty, but I took your question to mean that you will want to operate a cleaner when the pump/filter is turned off. If true, your only good choice is a robotic type cleaner. Other suction and pressure-side cleaners rely on the flow provided by the pool's circulation pump - the Polaris 280, like many pressure-side cleaners, also needs a booster pump, which runs coincident with the main pump to provide adequate pressure for the Polaris jets.
Though I can't give you any recommendations based on my experience for a robot cleaner, here's a nice selection of them to choose from:
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I'm new here so please be gentle. I'v had my pool for 4 years now and haven't had any real problems till this spring it all started when I couldn't get the fc levels to come up finally after reading online I was able to shock it enough to get stuff killed and get some free chlorine. Now I need to get things balanced out and since the only pool place in this small town have very limited knowledge about anything except for what is written down for them, I was hoping to get some help here. I'll start with my pool info and the readings I got from the pool store, I'm sure I won't leave you with enough info so please let me know what else I need to supply....here goes
16500 gallon, in-ground, vinyl lined, heated pool - 80degrees, sand filter. I'm using bioguard chemicals Silk smart sticks for chlorine, smart shock and back-up for algecide. I also have their optimizer plus product in the pool as well. The pool water looks crystal clear as well.
TDS: 1000
CYA: 151
Tot Chlorine: 9.5
Free Chlorine: 6.5
pH:8.2
Tot. Alkalinity:188
Adj tot alk:143
Total Hardness:315
Optimizer plus:64
Saturation index:1.1
Those are the readings from the pool company's computer program from bioguard. I know I need to get the pH down and that isn't a problem, what worries me is the high chlorine levels and the cya seems high as well. Their test also says I have combined chlorine but it doesn't give a reading for it, just says to add 10 bags of oxysheen. I'm looking for some help or advice on where to go from here cause so far its been a long month of messing around and it seems like I've gotten no where and have been going in circles.
Thanks in advance
Brian
Hi Brian,
Welcome to the forum! I'll be gentle.
You're absolutely right to be concerned about the CYA -- it is way too high. The amount of chlorine needed to adequately sanitize microbes and keep algae at bay is inextricably related to CYA. I'm not familiar with Bioguard but I'll wager that one or more of those products contains Trichlor or Dichlor, chlorine compounds that contain CYA. Given time, these products will build up CYA until it becomes daunting to kill off a serious algae outbreak (because of the ridiculous amounts of chlorine that must be introduced --- most of it is bound to the cyanuric acid).
Lower your CYA to a reasonable level before you do anything else. That means (don't shoot the messenger!) -- draining at least 2/3 of the pool water and refilling. Once the cyanuric acid (CYA) is in the 30-50 PPM range don't use any product on a regular basis that contributes to its increase. Instead, use liquid chlorine (10 or 12%) or 6% bleach to sanitize the water. You'll be able to safely lower Free Chlorine to about 3 or 4 ppm (see this chart) after that's done. As you've noted, pH is too high, and your vinyl sided pool doesn't require that level of calcium either. Depending on your fill water this may be something that corrects itself when the pool is refilled.
Please divert some of the dollars that you've been spending on these chemicals at the pool store to the purchase of a high-end residential test kit. It's a great investment and if you want to compare the pool company's read-outs to your own results, fine. Most people discover that they can do their own testing (at home, whenever they want) in less time and more accurate results. The test kit most often recommended on this site is Taylor's K-2006, priced under $60 at the sources listed below. If you buy a different test kit, be sure it contains the FAS/DPD Chlorine test.
Amato Industries (Amatoind.com)
http://www.amatoind....test-p-555.html
Swimming Pool Supply Company (Spspools-spas.com)
https://asp5.secure-...asp?prodid=1259
Poolcenter.com
http://www.poolcente...r_test_kits.htm
Good information about pool water chemistry and the best way to manage it is found in the threads of this forum and in a few others--you may want to check out this series of articles; it's a nice compilation of best practices. Post back with any questions.
Greg
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I have recently bought a house, and it already had a aboveground pool in place. This is the first time I have ever had a pool. The pump and filter is setup, but I seem to have issues with maintaining water pressure to vacuum and filter the pool. The pool has a cartridge filter.
I have cleaned the filter with a hose, and put it back in. Once I start the pump it runs fine for about 1 hour, then the pressure seems to drop and unable to vacuum the pool and there is barely any pressure coming out of the jet.
I am wondering if anybody has any tips they would be able to give, so I can keep the pump running all the time. I was told by the previous owner that filter was bought last October, so it very new.
Not sure what size your equipment (pool, pump, filter) is but the pump and/or filter may be undersized. When I built my small in-ground pool I installed an over-sized cartridge filter because I had read that large filters were more effective in keeping the water clean, required less maintenance (soaking & cleaning the filter media) and wouldn't impede flow when matched with a high capacity pump. If you can improve the jet pressure just by cleaning the filter (if only for a while) purchasing a new, larger filter may be a sound investment. If you have an Intex pool and plan to keep it awhile, consider upgrading both pump and filter.
I just finished cleaning my cartridge filter. It was only the third time it has been cleaned since 2007 and it hardly looked like it needed it. Never have flow problems nor is there any detectable rise in filter pressure (PSI).
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I've taken my pool water to be tested for chlorine and it's always at 0 only a few days after Boosting the pool or adding shock. It's almost like the cell isn't generating chlorine unless I set it to Boost. I'm hoping someone can help.
-There's enough salt, and other chemical readings are fine
-No error codes on the Aqua Pure
-Flow light is on, so I know water is flowing
I did notice that on the panel it reads 00% for the production rate. But on my Jandy Handheld it reads 60% which is what I set it to. Not sure if this is normal?
Any advice would be much appreciated. Technical support from Jandy told me to have a technician look at it.
The discrepancy may not be normal -- check to see if this is mentioned in the manual.
The output for my SWG displays in volts and amps. When the SWG is operating (producing chlorine) it shows the level of both, when it's not operating, it displays zeros. This doesn't mean it has stopped working, only that it is between cycles of operation (at a 25% setting, the SWG turns on to make chlorine approximately 15 minutes an hour, on average).
One way to verify chlorine production is to set the SWG to 100% (or super-chlorinate) output. Log the output displayed on the panel and the handheld for later reference. Gather a couple of water samples - one from the closest return jet in the pool. Another, far away from any pool return. Test these samples immediately, at home, with a FAS/DPD chlorine test (it's more precise than the yellow OTO type). By the time you've taken the samples to the store, some of that chlorine is gone and any comparison between the samples will be difficult. If the sample taken at the return contains significantly higher Free Chlorine than the sample taken away from any return, the SWG is producing chlorine.
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My girlfriend threw away the bag that contained my pool light glass, the ring that holds it on and the new gasket, below are the pictures, where is the cheapest place to find something like this? The hole in the pool is about 10 inch and the pool was built in 1990.
http://i48.photobuck...er/f364da5a.jpg
http://i48.photobuck...er/2e2c35d0.jpg
thanks!
Perhaps someone in the industry will recognize the light and give you more information, but have you tried examining the remaining parts for a manufacturing name or model number? In the second picture the label looks more like a serial number. Can you determine whether the light is on a 12 or 120 volt system, etc.? With the specs you have and a manufacturer's name, you may be able to find the parts available here.
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I was just wondering is there any reason to use colored pebbles in plaster? My contractor insists that it will significantly prolong pool life (up to 12 years, vs 7 years with regular plaster). Also, how much we should pay for 41 feet/by 19 feet pool if we choose pebbles in plaster? What are other options if any? Thank you in advance!
My understanding - from reading forum discussions about pools surfaces and how they're applied, not from experience - is that Pebbletec and equivalent products that are expertly applied will outlast regular marcite plaster. Since there are plaster pools that have endured 20 years or more, I don't know if longevity of the material should be the primary motivation for its use. Many pool owners like the look and feel of pebble surfaces, others don't like the sensation (rougher texture) of pebble.
Careful expert application of plaster or pebbletec by experienced crews - followed by good maintainence and balanced water chemistry - should result in a pool surface that stands up over time.
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My main concern that nobody can answer is: Which is the smartest system when it comes to watching water temperature and pH levels, etc, and adjusting itself. Basically, I want the system that requires the least amount of work for me (that sounds lazy, but I'm being honest. My twin boys drain all my energy, leaving little reserve for pool work). I'm worried about spending big bucks on a SWG, only to find that I still have to do all kinds of chemistry manipulation. The internet has some troublesome stories about pH levels going out of control with a SWG, and the pool requiring lots of acid. I'm trying to avoid that.
I installed Hayward's Aqua Logic PS-8 with Turbo Cell SWG when my pool was built and enjoy steady Free Chlorine levels without having to resort to dosing the water with bleach/liquid chlorine every few days. The pH does tend to rise over time but lowering Total Alkalinity and targeting a slightly higher pH (7.7 instead of 7.4, for example) seems to lessen this effect. Once a week I test for pH and add a cup or two or muriatic acid if necessary. I've never had the pH level go "out of control" even leaving the pool untreated for a couple of weeks. Tabs/pucks are also convenient but their regular use can lead to water chemistry issues because of excessive stabilizer or calcium. A SWG cell and dedicated controller costs about $1000. I'll have to let Sal tell you why he doesn't like SWGs -- I like mine, though.
There are control systems that incorporate a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWG) cell along with CO2/muriatic acid dispensing equipment for pH control. Example: Hayward Pro Logic Total Pool Management The controller centralizes switching of all pool equipment: heaters, solar, auto pool cleaners, filter timers, pumps, water features, lights, valves, chlorination, acid-dosing and probably a few more things that I've forgotten. Like my system, it has numerous remote control options, from wireless indoor and spa-side displays to internet and phone interfaces. If you have many thousands of dollars handy, this system or one like it may be for you.
Even with the most sophisticated automation system, you will still have to contend with "all kinds of chemistry manipulation" (if by that you mean testing the pool water regularly and making some adjustments, at least occasionally) as well as regular maintenance. Calcium, alkalinity and stabilizer (cyanuric acid/CYA) may need to be added from time to time. Someone has to replenish the muriatic acid or CO2 when it runs low, etc. It will not empty your skimmer or pump baskets or notice if your automatic pool cleaner has lost a wheel. These systems are complex and use multiple sensors, circuit boards, wires and switches. That means many more parts that can fail.
That said, I think these systems are the future. A SWG is a timesaver and is proven technology. Controllers using ORP and other methods to monitor and adjust sanitation/pH levels are trickier and may require periodic calibration (best case) or endless tinkering. How do you know these systems are doing what they're supposed to be doing? Regular testing of the water – by the pool owner.
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I bought an older house with a pool and spa combo. I am having it re-plastered now, but there is not a return line to the pool only the spa jets. They are telling me I will need to have one installed. It has a 9-12? deep end, they say it will be a hard beating algae without good circulation. I think originally there were two lions spitting water into the pool according to a neighbor, would that have been the return?
Do you think I need to install a return in the pool, not just overflow from spa? Thanks for your help, I am new to pool care.
An IG pool/spa with a 9 or 12 ft deep-end can be expected to hold a sizeable quantity of water. If the pool has a working main drain that should help circulation, as would multiple skimmers. Are the lions missing or are they just refusing to spit? If the latter, they can work again as returns. Depending on the distance between equipment and pool, and the amount of concrete deck that must be excavated and repoured for additional return lines, this could prove an expensive undertaking.
Echoing the comment made by AFiremanFirst, 3 returns is a good starting point. That's the number of wall returns in my much smaller 14K gallon pool. Circulation is great - thanks to a short run to equipment pad, a spa overflow, a main drain and skimmer, pressure-cleaner and water feature. If you're collecting bids to retrofit a pool return line, I'd suggest requesting a range of prices: installation of just 1 return, 2 returns, 3, 4, etc. Depending on the pool layout, increasing the number of returns may be economical.
Though a simple water feature (e.g. deck jets) could be installed in place of one or more wall returns and be configured to operate in tandem with the main pump, there are potential downsides. Water features (slides, deck jets, water falls) that must be "ON" when the pump is operating to secure adequate circulation will increase ambient noise near the pool. That's OK when you're swimming but not so good if your pool is under a bedroom window or close to a neighbors house -- many pool owners pump at night to save electricity. The features may add more to Total dynamic head (resistance to flow) than wall returns, resulting in higher energy costs or need for a larger pump. And the constant splashing and/or aeration will work to increase pH, requiring more of your attention and muriatic acid.
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I live in southeast TX and have little, fast, black bugs in my pool, is there any thing I can put in the pool to kill them?
If you're thinking pesticide, no. Not much you can do about flying insects bombarding your pool water without adding to the chlorine's oxidation burden and/or introducing a hazardous substance that may affect you and your guests' health. If the bugs are of a species that will persist throughout the swim season, you may be able to reduce their numbers by changing the environment -- remove nearby shade trees, flowers, plant beds, sprinklers, weed growth and other potential nesting sites. Bugs that crawl may be dissuaded by barriers or chemical substances (borax) sprinkled around the deck perimeter. (Don't use poisons if there are pets or native wildlife in the area, or high winds.)
Keep a solar cover on the pool/spa and turn the pool lights and water features off except when swimming. Use a leaf rake to net any bugs swimming without a signed consent form. Turn off area and patio lights to discourage winged insects. Remove all nearby fresh water sources. Introduce predators (or not). Surround every side of your pool with a Florida bird-cage -- a screened enclosure. Bug-proof each section of screen with no-seeum netting.
Or do what I do (involuntarily) during summer evening bike rides: eat them.
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Recheck 9:45 am today:
T97.1, pH ≥ 8.0 w/ acid demand stable at 4 drops to reach pH 7.6, TA 90, FC 11.0, CC 0.5
BTW, I have an ozonator. Had 3 ppm drop / 15 hours. This extrapolates to ~ 5 ppm over 24 hours, if degradation curve linear, yielding a chlorine demand of approximately 35% [1-(9/14)].
At this point, should I just go ahead and add the acid required as calculated by the acid demand test?
pH control is crucial and the TA may be a little high... I didn't run the numbers, but you can using the Pool Calculator. You've got a lot going on here in the two days since it was filled. I'd recommend continuing to add small amounts* of acid to reduce pH and TA, testing between applications. Chlorine demand is a different matter. As I don't have hands-on experience managing a spa that incorporates so many different methods of sanitizing (ozonator with "Nature2 + MPS + dichlor shock prn") and uses borates.... I hope others will offer their advice.
Using a 10 mL sample for the FAS/DPS chlorine test? If so, don't worry about a Combined Chlorine (CC) total of .5 PPM. You can always increase the sample size to 25 mL (each drop of reagent R-0871 = .2 PPM) to get a bit more resolution. If CC tests > .5 PPM with either 10 or 25 mL I'd suspect MPS interference. More on this at http://www.poolspafo...showtopic=22984
Are you testing for Calcium Hardness (CH) and cyanuric acid (CYA)? I didn't see those numbers. If you run Pool Calculator, be sure the CYA and CH values are entered.
* Free Chlorine may be high enough to have a slight affect on the pH test result; this combined with test imprecision (due to imperfect ambient or back light when color matching pH level, variability in size of sample, titrant drops) would lead me to be cautious when making adjustments. If the spa jets have been working overtime, as I assume they would be while you're adding chems, mixing, testing and adjusting, the resultant aeration will tend to increase pH.
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hey after reading this forum I have decided to move to liquid chlorine as my main chlorine source. no more trichlor for me....
I have a hypothetical daily chlorine requirement question (ignoring shocking, assuming no daily change in bather load, no change in weather, no change in CYA, etc.) and I want to keep my FC ~4ppm:
Assuming good water balance, and a goal FC of ~4, I seem to recall reading on this forum that if FC goes below 2 someone suggested that you should add enough liquid chlorine to bring the FC to around 6, but if the FC was in the >2 but <4 range they would add enough chlorine to only go up to 4ppm.
Is there a rough "rule of thumb" that I should follow, or should I always just add enough to bring it to 4 and not overshoot?
Thanks, hopefully this question makes sense..
Every pool is different. Chlorine demand can vary greatly -- it's affected by the angle and duration of sunlight on the water (time of year), environmental pollution (dust, bird droppings,etc), the amount of cyanuric acid (CYA) in the water, pumping time and flow rate (determining how much of the water is filtered), not to mention the type of filter media and how clean it is, effectiveness of pool cleaner..... I think the best approach would be to set goals for CYA and Free Chlorine, and pump/filter time, then experiment to see how much and how often you need to add chlorine. In the middle of summer with lots of swimmers you'll be adding it every day I imagine. But if you use a pool cover (another variable!) you may find yourself needing to add chlorine only once or twice a week.
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well... it wasn't that easy. My controller says goldline. my cell only says "turbo cell" t-15, no manufacture. any help? One other question. I've always used a 2 parts water to 1 part acid for cleaning the cell. In line with what I did find concerning this cell. however they recommend 3-4" of water and 1-1.5" of acid, soak one end, then the other. Doesn't seem like a deep enough mix of solution to cover all of the cell. I've always used a gallon of acid and 2 gallons of water, or enough water to submerge my cell. Is this not recommended for a reason I can "reason"?
If your controller is Goldline doesn't that indicate that you have a Goldline cell? Or are you saying this is an aftermarket product (didn't know there were any)? I've seen a bunch of synonyms for the cell I have (Hayward Goldine Aqua Logic PS-8 controller with Aqua T-CELL-15) including "Turbo Cell" "Aqua Rite" and others.
Here's the manual for the standalone SWG (Aqua Rite controller and cell) [PDF file]
Cell maintenance is discussed beginning on page 38 in the PS-8 operation manual (Aqua Logic PS-8 controller & cell) [PDF file]
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Aqua Pure requires min. 30 gpm to work so run the pump at high speed long enough to get the required levels.
I think your owner's manual will tell you precisely.
Well, this is contrary to my response to one of your posts but you may be right. If the Aqua Pure requires 30 GPM and for whatever reason that can't be effected using low-speed it would generate a low-flow error. I guess I should look up the minimum flow rate for my Goldline Aqua Cell before I invest in a 2 speed pump.
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I want to use a 2 speed pump on my new pool in Miami with only 5000 gallons which will require high speed for about 2 hours per day. However, PB advises that that is not enough time for the SWG to make enough chlorine in the summer thus requiring up to 4 hours at high speed. As you know Miami is very hot and rainy in the summer?
Would going to a bigger capacity SWG (say APURE 700 to the APURE 1400) create more chlorine in a shorter time period?
Thanks, Michael
Not familiar with APURE but many SWGs have adjustable output, which is to say that the time of operation (the time it is producing chlorine) can be adjusted. When I set my Aqua-Cell T-15 to 30% it releases chlorine for the first 15-20 minutes then shuts off for at least an hour. Note that my unit is advertised for use with up to 40K gallon pools and puts out a maximum of 1.45 pounds (ideal conditions and 24 hour pumping, per documentation). That's more than enough output for my 14K gallon pool operating 2-3 hours per day. In Miami, you'll probably want a higher level of CYA and target a chlorine level that is at least 5% of the CYA ppm. Example: 80 PPM CYA, 4 PPM Free Chlorine (minimum). So, if the bather load (number of swimmers etc) is not too heavy and your system can achieve 1 turnover (5000 gallons+) in 2 hours then you should be fine. If you can ensure that the low speed setting of the pump pushes enough water to avoid a "low - flow" condition, you should be able to generate chlorine no matter the the speed.
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new person here....pool owner for 23 years, always used polaris cleaners. i am trying to decide between the polaris 380 or the 3900. would appreciate any comments of the two before i make the purchase. thanks in advance.
Regarding reliability all I ever read about is how wonderful the Polaris 280 is but if you've owned this model (or any of them, surely) you know how annoying they can be as well in terms of tiny parts (that break one a time) and the constant fiddling required to keep them operational. If I was buying new I'm sure I'd have to buy the 3900 because I like new, shiny things. Probably performs nearly as well or the same as the 280 or 380. What's an extra few hundred dollars? heh heh If you elect to purchase the 3900, please post back with your opinion.
Call Me Crazy, But A Submerged Removable Shelf?
in All Swimming Pools Types
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In the design stage of my pool build 3 yrs ago I decided to nix what the builder referred to as a Caribbean bench because, it was explained to me, the bench required extra re-bar. This feaure would have added $7,000 to the total cost of the pool. Instead, the kids played in the attached spa. A year later, the spa was too pedestrian for their consideration -- they swim in the deep end and center of the pool. So, whatever you do now for the children, realize that its attractiveness will wane in a year or two. My shallow end is 4 feet deep but the youngest took to it quite soon when the "water wings" were removed to teach her to swim.