polyvue
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Posts posted by polyvue
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Hello, have what should be a simple question regarding our Hayward Pro 1.5 HP pump leaking from the basket cover when turned off. We typically run the pump 24/7 for our EW Millenium 15x30, no leaks, works great. When we shut it off to clean the pool, or empty the pump strainer basket, water leaks out (only when pump turned off) from the basket. When I say basket I mean the round portion that has the strainer with a circular cover with o-ring. The previous pump was replaced due to a bad bearing, and this one is new, with a new o-ring. I can prevent it from leaking (when turned off) by almost overtightening the basket lid, but my fiancee cannot open it to empty the strainer.
Great pump, but with the economy as it is, and the probable installation of a timer, we can't have water leaking out when it's on it's off cycle. I haven't really lubricated the o-ring (thought I read that somewhere), and all I can guess is it's gravity feeding down from the pool out the basket lid. Only happens when it's turned off, and no air is leaking into pump when running. Can I stack a second o-ring on top of first for a tighter seal ?
Can't address the idea of placing a second o-ring (this doesn't sound like a good idea) ... but you should try a bead of Jack's Forumula 327 or other brand (or generic) pool lube around the threads and existing o-ring. That way, tightening and loosening the pump pot cover should be a lot easier and the lube should protect the o-ring as well as provide a water tight fit.
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I have a 12ftx30" pool and it is freezing cold at the moment, im in the UK.
The ones I am looking at are :
O'Blue 5Kw - http://oblue.co.uk/c...duct_detail&p=6
3kw BESTWAY - http://www.ourtoysto...pools-upto-15ft
I'm in agreement with britinusa... the heat output of the electric heater's you've mentioned may not be sufficient. I installed an 18 kW electric heater so that I could heat my 750 gallon in-ground spa in the winter (0 degree Celsius air temperature) from 10 to 38 degrees C. --- it takes hours and hours to accomplish this. If you can install a gas-fired heater or heat pump that would be a better choice, either would provide superior heating.
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Waterbear - I appreciate your clarification.
If I am using 6 or 12% bleach, how do I shock? Or is it better to use the stuff they sell at the local pool dealer, i.e. the powder that says 1 pound per 10K gallons?
The powder sold by pool dealers/stores is usually a chlorine compound such as Calcium Hypochlorite (Cal Hypo), Di-chlor or Trichchloro-s-triazinetrione (Trichlor) and adds substantial amounts of either calcium or cyanuric acid (CYA) to the water right along with the chlorine. Excessive calcium or CYA can lead to problems with cloudiness and scaling (cal-hypo) or maintaining sanitation levels (Dichlor, Trichlor).
When shocking for algae, it's better to use liquid chlorine (10-12.5%) or 6% bleach because these add only a very small amount of salt in addition to the chlorine. The key to both effective daily sanitation and shocking is to have the right amount of Free Chlorine in the water based on CYA level (aka stabilizer or conditioner level). Refer to this chart for recommended minimum, maximum and shock levels for chlorine. Shocking consists of quickly elevating chlorine to the target (shock) level and KEEPING it at that level by frequent additions of chlorine over several days (testing, adding, testing, adding...) until the pool is clear, combined chlorine (CCs) are <= .5 PPM and there is less than a 1 PPM drop in Free Chlorine (FC) from dusk to dawn. It's much easier to perform shocking with a FAS-DPD chlorine test (part of Taylor's K-2006 kit).
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Thanks Polyvue!
Since I have a chlorine feeder I have been using the 3" chlorinating tablets (99% Trichloro). Is it ok to continue using the chlorinating tabs or should I use something else?
I would encourage you to chlorinate using liquid chlorine or 6% bleach instead of the TriChlor tabs because for every 10 PPM chlorine that is added to the water the tabs are also increasing CYA by roughly 6 PPM.
The higher the level of CYA, the more chlorine you need to fight algae and provide adequate sanitation. So, more Trichlor is added to increase chlorine but that in turn elevates CYA and you're back to where you started: insufficient chlorine.
Pool chlorine (or bleach) does not increase CYA -- it just adds chlorine, which is what you want.
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I have finally managed to get pool under control in its chemistry... and now around the sides of the pool [not all] have some greenish stains from the algae. I have put in 'Metal Free' from pool chemistry to try to remove the metals from my pool it worked well but now how do I remove the stains?? I have tried scrubbing it with a hard bristol Nylon Pool bush and it did not come out instead it made the liner patterns kinda faded or disappear... so I stopped doing it... how and what can I do... any chemicals that can remove it... The pool still is a little low on Alk. Advise... baking powder? Size is around 22,000 gallons liner pool.
First, confirm the type of stain. Try positioning a Trichlor (chlorine compound) tablet in the pool so that it comes into contact with the stain. If the stain lifts or fades in a short time, the stain is probably organic. With elevated levels of chlorine and frequent brushing the stains will eventually go away. If you suspect metal staining, apply a vitamin C tablet to the affected area. If the vitamin C works, treat for metal stains (below).
For metal stains, consider applying an ascorbic acid treatment --- if the stains cover a wide area, you can perform this procedure pool-wide; or just apply topically for smaller areas. See Stain removal via ascorbic acid treatment for details. Be aware that the process requires reducing chlorine down so that it can no longer be measured. As far as I know, there are only a couple of ways to permanently remove metals (to prevent restaining) from the pool water. A.) Drain / vacuum to waste / backwash to remove the water; or B.) Hire a company that performs reverse osmosis filtering to remove them. (Distillation would work, too, but I've never heard of that being tried for the volume of water typical in a pool.) Refill with water known to be metal-free and subsequently never add copper-based algaecides or minerals disbursed via algae-control systems (Nature 2) etc.
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My tub of chlorine tablets got slightly wet and have yellowed. Are they still usable?
If the tablets appear to have congealed into a single mass or are still wet and emitting fumes, I'd get rid of them -- perhaps through the hazardous materials agency in your area. If they are no longer very wet, appear to be intact, and not letting off a horrible smell, isolate the bucket somewhere for a few days with the lid off and away from paper, cloth, oil, gasoline, people and pets so they can completely dry out.
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My question now is WHAT IS GOING ON HERE? Do I have a bad unit? Am I doing something wrong with this thing?
Sorry, I don't know what exactly what Error 91 means on an Intex SWG. It may be malfunctioning.
Perhaps this will ring a bell for PoolClown or one of the other technicians on this site.
But you've discovered through trial and error that the salt you put in the pool was not the problem: water softener/solar/pool salt should all work. The Intex manual doesn't explain the error code beyond suggesting Low Salt? Might try searching their web site or call the company for explanation. If you just purchased it, it should be under warranty. Of course, as Deckard indicated, the filter/pump should be running whenever the SWG is operating. I doubt that it will work otherwise.
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Thanks Polyvue, LOL! No skunks in this forum..HA!
I forgot to mention that for the past 6 seasons I always add BioGuard Algae All-60 (10-12 ounces per week) with great results (no algae). I saved my pool test water results from the last 2-3 seasons and I have noticed that my CYA range has always been anywhere from 57 to 151 (usually over 100) and I have never had algae. Is this because I am using BioGuard Algae All-60? Also, I have been using Nature2 cartridge and keeping my TC and Free chlorine well below 5 and not had algae problems. I want to use Nature2 this season since it has been great!
Last night I added water to pool to top off (couple inches)
I had my water tested from pool store this morning (did not have time to test water myself)and the results are:
Temp: 76
sat index: -0.4
TDS 1800
CYA 131 (pool tech told me my CYA is fine and ideal CYA is 30-200)
Tot Chlorine: 2.8
Free Chlorine: 2.8
Ph: 7
tot alk: 188
Adj. Tot Alk: 149
Tot Hardness: 236
salt: N/A
What do you suggest at this point? Can I begin to use my Nature2 now?
I am unable to drain pool water and refill. I will test water myself tonight.
Thanks for everyones help and suggestions
It's not unheard of to have a pool that is well-behaved for several years or most of a season and then becomes quickly unmanageable. This usually happens because starting off the level of cyanuric acid (CYA) is quite low, but over time chlorine compounds have been added to the pool and the CYA builds up to the point where it's embargoing (combining with) almost all of the chlorine. A little CYA (30-100 ppm) is a good thing, too much means you've disabled your main sanitizer and algea fighter.
My understanding is that the minerals you've been adding via the Nature 2 have some impact on sanitation - yet it's the chlorine that's doing all of the heavy lifting. I recommend reading the following articles regarding the Nature 2 system. Bottom line, I think, is that in the concentrations required for good sanitation the minerals cause problems, and in low amounts, don't quickly enough kill pathogens. There is also the issue of increased cost in adding unnecessary chemicals (or minerals) to the pool.
Stains & Metal Matters: Iron, Copper, Silver & More
Alternative sanitizers and "chemical free" pools
Even if you reconnect the cartridge there likely won't be enough sanitizer/oxidizer in the pool to effectively kill the hardier algae species and/or other organics. If draining part of the pool water is impossible I would look into hiring a company that performs reverse osmosis filtering --- available at a reasonable price (from what I've heard) if you live in Arizona or Southern California.
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Thanks Gavin... I just received my Taylor K-2006 FAS-DPD Test kit and it really is simple to use. My free chlorine is 4.6 total chlorine is 5.2. Ph is 7.5. The cya is over 100 as the black dot dissappeared long before water level got to 100.
Free chlorine is holding nice! Had not added bleach since the 15 gallons last Friday (5 days ago). It will be exciting (starting tomorrow!) to compare my results with pool store results to see how close we are.
I'm a bit late to this conversation...
Your report that the chlorine is holding overnight is good news but since the measured CYA is > 100 PPM you must endeavor to maintain a much higher Free Chlorine (FC) level on a daily basis. The FC/CYA ratio that Gavin refers to can be found in the Best Guess CYA chart. You should target a FC concentration that is comfortably above the minimum (5% of CYA for a SWG pool, 8% of CYA for a non-salt pool). If the black dot disappeared "long before the water level got to 100" there is too much CYA in the water. You can determine the level of CYA by diluting the sample water with tap water (50:50) and doubling the result. If the CYA is much more than 100 PPM I would drain off some of the pool water to reduce it to a maxium of 80 PPM (Salt Water Chlorine Generator SWG) or 50 PPM (no SWG).
Finally, TC 5.2 minus FC 4.6 = Combined Chlorine .6 PPM; this is a bit high and shows the need for elevated levels of chorine for a while until it gets down to around .2 PPM. If the CYA is very high (and seems to be) you may be better off draining some water and refilling before you add more chlorine.
Sorry to be the skunk at the dinner party... Throw me out if you find my dour message discomforting!
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The pool IS 5800 gal. I put new sand in the filter every season just to be safe, my three shocks consisted of 2-1 lb bags of green out twice and the last shock was 2-1 lb. bags of pool shock plus 19 0zs of wac./groan. added I 2.56 bottle of bleach last nite to try and get the FC/free clorean, this morning added PH up and the pool ligthened up somewhat but still light green , any help further would be appreciated greatly cause this is getting exspensive now AND ANY general STORE PRODUCTS THAT CAN REPLACE THE POOL STORE ITEMS which are expensive would also be greatly appreciated as I live on a fixed income and trying hard to keep the expenses down a little as this season to open is getting out of hand already TIA...
It sounds like you need a reliable, inexpensive test kit so you can know exactly what's in your pool... add just the right amount of bleach to kill off the algae and keep it gone. I'd recommend a one-time investment of $50 - $60 to purchase a Taylor K-2006A FAS-DPD Chlorine test kit (it's listed at the top of the linked page). You'll save this much in unneeded chemicals during the swim season but the kit will serve you well for several years. If you already have a test kit you like but don't have the FAS-DPD chlorine test (starts off pink and turns clear) consider purchasing just this test. The Taylor K-1515-A is about $21 from this supplier, excluding shipping.
Want to save money on pool chemicals by purchasing most of them at the grocery store instead of a pool store? See this link and this one for a discussion about this approach.
The basic idea behind successfully defeating algae in your pool is described here. If you need more specific answers regarding how to clear algae, please post current test results (indicate if the tests were run at a pool store).
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Thanks Polyvue. My current pressure at the filter is 10 PSI. When it gets to about 20 PSI, I typically backwash it.
I am using HTH Shock 'n Swim #3 with CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE 47.6%, OTHER INGREDIENTS 52.4%, TOTAL 100%, MINIMUM AVAILABLE CHLORINE 45%. (43% Potassium Monopersulfate)
(that's all I can find for ingredients)
I use HTH Liquid Chlorinator with SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE 10%, OTHER 90%, once the pool gets balanced, then I will use the HTH hockey pucks.
I went and checked on the pool this morning first thing. I do not see any more algae at the surface like I had been seeing. I think I may have won that battle.
You've probably read here that liquid ("pool") chlorine or 6% bleach is a better way to chlorinate and/or shock pool water. The "other ingredients" in the products you cite are often unnecessary or even counterproductive. If you find a recurrence of algae in your pool, please consider buying a good test kit and read this article, which outlines a very effective procedure for defeating algae. Here's another article that may be helpful.
The process involves shocking the pool with liquid chlorine according to the concentration of Cyanuric Acid (CYA) that is in the pool. Rely on the Best Guess CYA chart to determine the amount of chlorine to shock with.
The prospects for a first-time success is improved by the use of a good test kit (the Taylor K-2006 is discounted by various on-line sources, including that linked by chem geek, above). Welcome to the forum. Feel free to post back with any questions you may have.
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It is not a problem. The quantity is very small and will be greatly diluted by the volume of pool water.
Over time will it dissolve completely?
What are you supposed to do with the test water in tube. Dump it in your grass? Down the drain?
Taylor discourages dumping samples back into the pool but I've observed that pool service company employees do this routinely. As chem geek stated, the quantity is so minute that it really shouldn't affect the water. The contents of most common tests (used samples) will likely dissolve instantly. Since I started testing inside I empty the used samples down the kitchen drain. If you use a salt test that involves silver nitrate, do be careful during titration, "full strength" silver nitrate stains hands and countertops (and probably other surfaces) rather quickly. Highly concentrated acids and bases used in a few tests can irritate or burn skin and I usually flush testing surfaces and drains with plenty of water if spilled.
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I started to opened my pool about 2 weeks ago, and my water levels were better than expected. I had a issue with my sand filter automatically backwashing while it was on filter which resulted in the chemicals being wasted and no circulation. Once I discovered the backwash issue and resolved it, my pool started growing algae and turned a hint of green. I instantly put in 3lbs of shock for my pool size approx. 12000 gallons. Then the water became cloudy (no longer green). I am still seeing very small amounts of algae heading towards the skimmer, but I still keep fighting that issue as well (trying to shock the you know what out of it) and now the cloudy water issue. My readings are not changing and I am not able to get any kind of CYA reading. I am stuck and not sure how to proceed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Welcome to the forum.
A few questions: What is the current pressure at the filter in PSI (or bars)? What product are you using to shock with (brand name, ingredients)? What do you normally use to sanitize (chlorinate) your pool?
You said that you weren't able to get a CYA reading but you didn't say why. Best (most accurate) results would come from a test kit but if you have to, take a water sample to a nearby pool store and have them provide a full set of test results, including CYA:
pH
Free Chlorine (FC)
Combined Chlorine (CC)
Total Chlorine (TC)
Total Alkallinity (TA)
Calcium Hardness (CH)
Cyanuric Acid (CYA)
Salt PPM (if this is a salt water pool)
Knowing the level of CYA is critical because of its relationship to the right level of chlorine needed to shock and kill algae. It's quite common after shocking at inadequate levels for algae to keep coming back. But this problem can be addressed.
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Cover failed me this winter it seems , opened the pool Sunday and three shock and the water is still pale green
Even the ugliest water can usually be rescued... with enough chlorine, filtering and attention. It would be helpful (in addition to information already requested) to post a full set of test results. If you don't have a test kit, take a sample to the pool store and request a print-out:
pH
Free Chlorine (FC)
Combined Chlorine (CC)
Total Chlorine (TC)
Total Alkallinity (TA)
Calcium Hardness (CH)
Cyanuric Acid (CYA)
Salt PPM (if this is a salt water pool)
Is the water cloudy or clear? What type of filter (sand, DE, cartridge)? Has it been backwashed or cleaned lately?
The most common reason for a green pool is algae growth but there are other reasons, as well.
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A stroke? That's going to be hard to sell! If the water is below body temperature, then it won't cause the body to heat, in fact 1 degree cooler will cool the body. Sounds like a personal hidden agenda. But... Listen to pool clown! They may close the pool on "hot" days, probably a set pool temp. As far as danger in swimming in warm water??? As long as it is properly balanced, there should be no concern! Your arguement should be that you paid dues when they were chilling the pool... They can either continue to chill the pool or lower your dues!
Plausible, if the body can maintain a safe internal temperature range while the exodermal temperature varies with the environment (equilibrium) but what happens when that body is being exercised (e.g., during swimming)? During vigorous exercise that 1 degree differential may not be sufficient to wick away the additional heat. Though I haven't tried swimming in a 97 degree Farenheit reservoir it doesn't sound pleasant. For non-runners, jogging in 97 degree heat can lead to heat exhaustion.
Is there a physiologist in the house?
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Thank you for all your help. I have attached a 3d sketch. I am thinking not to go more than 5 ft. at the deep end.
/Users/Shared/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Jun 18, 2010/LUIS_CABALLEROS_004.jpg
I am not sure if the picture attached.
Unfortunately, can't see the pics . It seems like the front (left) portion of the URL is missing.
There should be a web address that starts with http://
Try uploading to Photo Bucket or similar web photo site and then paste the address using the Insert Image function. They should show up when you click [Preview Post].
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[Deleted post - duplicate.]
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Just opened the pool about a week ago. Using cartidges in my filter which I have cleaned twice in a week. Both times they are filled with slimy dirt. Pool is still cloudy. Last year the cartridges were cleaned in the winter and I don't remember cleaning them again all season.
What is going on?
What was the condition of the pool when you opened? Was it green? If it was a dirty mess then one might expect that it will take a bit of time (and frequent cleanings) to clear a half year's worth of debris and silt that found its way to the pool over the winter. But when you write of "slimy dirt" and a pool that is "still cloudy" that raises a concern that you might be dealing with algae. Please provide more information, including latest test results and what is used to chlorinate the pool:
Type of pool (in-ground, above-ground, vinyl, plaster, fiberglass)
Number of gallons
pH
Free Chlorine (FC)
Combined Chlorine (CC)
Total Chlorine (TC)
Total Alkalinity (TA)
Calcium Hardness (CH)
Cyanuric Acid (CYA)
Salt PPM (if chlorinating w/SWG)
If you have algae, the general prescription consists of applying enough chlorine to eradicate it, followed by a daily or weekly regimen of chlorine at a level indicated by the amount of CYA in the water.
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I have been taking my water to Leslie's Pool Supply every day for testing since I began the shock process. My chlorine went from 2 ppm to 5 ppm and never higher. I talked to the guy at the store today and he told me that their test equipment does not go higher than 5 ppm!!! So I might have been up at 24 or 20 or 32 ppm but I never would have known it!!!! I have to get the Taylor k-2006 and do my own testing from home. I ASSUMED the pool store would use the BEST test equipment!!??!!
As chem geek noted, pool store testing can be unreliable. They are all over the place in their testing methods and outcomes. My local Leslie's uses the DPD Chlorine method found in the Taylor K-2005 complete test kit -- it's arguably better than using OTO (yellow color) or test strips but the chlorine test found in the K-2006 delivers more precision, is easier to use and works at very high levels of chlorine. This all translates into control over outcome.
Store personnel seem to be entirely uninformed of any relatiionship between Cyanuric Acid and Free Chlorine levels. I've heard them instruct customers having issues with algae to lower their chlorine and use phosphate remover because of "chlorine lock". Amazing! Of course, they haven't received any education in pool chemistry (beyond basic titration techniques) that would allow them to help customers with problems; it must be a frustrating job.
Just think how many dollars you can save this summer by procuring a K-2006 (FAS-DPD) kit from a discount vendor and doing your own testing. And, needless to say, it's also nice having an algae-free pool with clean water and the knowledge to correct problems before they become serious.
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Do you know if oak trees pose a threat to the pool? Should I stay away a minimum number of feet from them?
I'm not an arborist or tree expert and I tend to be a bit paranoid about trees close to pool installations, so my thoughts are not be taken as professional advice. Trees provide shade and that may be a good thing if pools in your area tend to get too warm in the summer. Trees also provide leaves, nuts (acorns) and miscellaneous debris; spiders and other insects; the animals that eat insects or nuts or leaves, including birds, squirrels, rats, [o]possums, snakes; and their excretions. If the trees are within 10 or 15 feet of the pool, these items ARE going to be distributed into the pool and that means an increase in maintenance (leaves/bark stain pools) and higher chlorine levels, to beat back (oxidize) the additional organic load on the pool. To determine if the pool will be directly threatened from roots I suggest determining the typical root ball size for the tree species closest to the pool and estimate its growth over the next 20 years. If during the dig you notice roots being dug out at the perimeter of the hole, remove the tree or plant that put them there.
I have a favorite sequoia sempervirens that I planted 15 yrs ago and an even older all-in-one almond tree, both less than fifteen feet from the pool at the time of build, that I refused to remove. But after only 3 years, I see the folly of this decision and will probably have to take them out in the next couple of years. Just my 2 cents.
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Am I doing this right? Am I supposed to try to get that number 5 up to a number 24??? That sounds impossible.
No, you're not doing it correctly. You need to target a high chlorine amount based on current level of CYA. 5 PPM FC is likely not even close to your goal. If CYA is 60 PPM, you should aim to put enough chlorine in the pool AT ONE TIME to bring it up to 24 PPM FC. If you just throw in a few bottles here and there without frequent testing and adding more bleach whenever the Free Chlorine drops below 24 PPM you'll be doing this forever and probably still have an algae problem.
How many bottles of bleach will I go through in 2-3 days of this? When I started I thought I'd go through 7 or so total...Will I actually go through more like 20? Or am I doing the calculations incorrectly?
What is the numer of ounces in these bottles? 96 oz jugs? Are you using bleach identified as "6% sodium hypochlorite" or is the label missing the percertage? Seven (7) 96 oz. jugs of 6% bleach should add 20-22 PPM chlorine to the pool. But you'll have to have additional jugs in reserve so that you can add more throughout the day --- whenever your test results indicate that the chlorine has come down from your target of 24 PPM.
And when do I know when it's done? When the walls are completely clean and white? I have been brushing them at least 2X per day.
Once the walls are clean and white (and the water is clear) perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This will be the criteria to tell you that you're finished shocking.
I'd encourage you to not give up... stopping too soon may allow the algae to return. You've been fighting this for a year according to your post. Time to finish it off. Good luck.
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When you are done, throw it on the lawn, it'll green up nicely.
Or throw it in your spa/pool (not!) --- it will have the same effect.
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When I did this calculation last year (3/4 HP booster pump vs. 1 HP SF 1.85 TriStar main pump) I too was surprised... The cleaner was at almost 85% of the single-speed main pump. My solution was to reduce the number of hours the cleaner ran. And if I happen to be out by the pool and see the sweeper cleaning an already clean pool, I turn it off .
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I tried 2 gallons and that didn't work so don't want to chance it this time and will shock using 6 gallons. I used 6 gallons in an 8,000 gallon pool last week and the next evening the FC had dropped down to 15ppm. of course that pool had a CYA of 35ppm. Its really hot now and the water temp is 94F.
Wow. That's a lot of chlorine demand. Are these US gallons (128 ounces)?
Is this pool you shocked last week another 8000 gallon pool or one you're working on currently? You mentioned 60 PPM CYA in an earlier post.
Heating Above Ground Pool
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
3 meter diameter by 1 meter depth round?
A sheet of plastic of almost any thickness would help retain heat... lost mostly through evaporative cooling and, in most places, at night. There are many sources for inexpensive plastic bubble "solar" covers in the US; I'm sure this also applies to the UK. Most pool owners seem to get the most utility from 12-16 mil blue covers, but clear also works.