Swim 'N Save USA
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Posts posted by Swim 'N Save USA
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If it is the smell of Bromine or Chlorine that you are trying to avoid, you may want to look into the Nature2 spa cartridges. These slide into the middle of your filter, using silver to effectively sanitize your spa (Nature2 Express swimming pool version available also) which is a proven water sanitizer used for hundreds, if not thousands of years. The only "chemicals" you will have to use, is a small amount of "oxygen shock" known as Potassium Monopersulfate after use to destroy any potentially harmful bacteria and viruses. This method is completely safe, scentless, and sanitary.
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That sounds odd that they "don't respond to BBB claims". You should always be responding to any customer's claim whether it comes from the BBB or not. I'm very sorry to hear this company is out there pushing customer's around. I will have to agree, however, the Waterway filters and pumps are not bad equipment and in some cases can be better than the other manufacturers.
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The pool finish would not have any impact on whether a salt system is a good ideal or not. This is totally dependent on personal preference as a salt pool provides a better look & feel. You can open your eyes underwater and not feel discomfort, the water feels smoother to the touch, the clarity is much greater without the "chlorine tint" and many more benefits.
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That is correct. If Jandy covers a part under warranty, they want to be sure that A.) the replacement part is installed and brought back on line correctly and B.) to verify that there was not something else that caused the part to fail i.e. incorrect power hookup, incorrect water chemistry, etc. Who is wanting you to pay the labor? The company that will be replacing the part? Or Jandy? I do warranty for a couple of different manufacturers so i can't remember if Jandy pays its warranty station labor costs. I know that Pentair does (does you no good). Would be interesting to find out.
On the other hand, $90 is a bit under the going rate for an hour, so maybe the station gets a partial reimbursement from Jandy and you make up the difference.
Jandy does cover the cost of labor to it's warranty service stations. Sounds like this company is trying to double dip from both ends. I would call Jandy direct to get another service company to look at it.
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You definitely want the eyeball fittings to be IN and pointed toward the bottom of the pool. Not having them in, or having them pointed at the surface allows the sun's UV rays to very quickly degrade the chlorine, therefore costing you un-necessary money. be extremely careful with the hammer/screwdriver as you can puncture through the flange and cause a leak in the pool (just plastic). To repair this, you will have to dig out a trench from your garden/yard all the way under the deck to re-plumb a new flange which is very costly and time consuming. Generally, Pentair and PROtech makes eyeball fittings and can be found by contacting our service department.
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we generally hear a few complaints regarding the gears within the 360 and 380 having plastic parts that break internally very quickly. From what I understand is the 3900 sport is supposed to be a much more rugged, longer lasting model (more money too, of course). If you would like, our service tech's can answer your question more in depth.
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If you haven't already purchased your pool heater, we are offering an additional 10% off (coupon code: PCM10P) all our heaters including the Hayward H-Series. Let us know if we can assist you in any way.
-Joe
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You never quite specified if this is a D.E. filter, Cartridge, or Sand? Most commonly, if you are having this issue and it's D.E. (which is what it sounds like), your lack of pressure and debris coming into the pool may be from not putting any or enough D.E. back into the system after backwashing.
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the Baracuda X7 Quattro recently came out. At the moment they are offering a $100 mfg. rebate bringing the cost below many other (cheaper) cleaners. From the feedback we hear on these cleaners, everybody seems to be extremely happy.
-Joe
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Glad I can help! Let us know if you need any assistance!
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you must also remember, Walmart is open 24 hours a day. All those chemicals are sitting under fluorescent lights (UV) that whole time which degrades it's effectiveness drastically.
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You can make a 40,000 T-Cell and a 25,000 T-Cell work together to give you the results you need with the Hayward Goldline system. To learn more, contact our service and sales department to clear up any questions you may have. At the moment, Goldline is offering a rebate program on their salt systems that expire July 6. The Goldline systems can be seen HERE
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hi,
I am looking for a pool cleaner betwen $100-$350. Can anyone please recommend a brand and model that is good? Good as in reliable and do a good job cleaning.
Thank you.
Jenny
look at Polaris pool cleaners. They have a good supply of cleaners.
http://polarispools.com/poolcleaners/default.aspx
suction cleaners hook up to skimmer
pressure cleaner hook into returns.
The most popular cleaner is the hayward navigator, which sells for $420. It currently comes with a $50 mail in rebate, and we are also taking another $20 off at the moment bringing your total price down to $350
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The equilibrium constants for the multiple simultaneous chemical equations are described in the link I gave to the O'Brien paper from 1974. I put all of that into a spreadsheet here, but this is not for novice users. It turns out that there are rough rules-of-thumb you can use where the equivalent FC with no CYA is approximately equal to the FC/CYA ratio, at least at cooler pool temperatures and near a pH of 7.5 (I derive this rule-of-thumb in this post).
However, there really isn't a need for you to calculate the hypochlorous acid or hypochlorite ion concentrations. Just remembering the FC as a % of CYA is sufficient or you can use a table such as this one that is based on these principles.
Thanks Chem. yes I was thinking I really wouldn't need to calculate active chlorine as I usually calculate the % of CYA and that keeps my pools nice and clear. Just thought someone might say one day that 8ppm was a hell of a lot of FC to keep in a pool but when the CYA is 100ppm and the owner doesn't want any water drained and pool refilled what can you do? Just thought the active chlorine number might put their mind as ease and realize the pool was still safe to swim in even at 8ppm.
for easy use and future reference, using a test kit and the "pool calculator" will help you greatly in balancing your swimming pool. They also have a handy application available for the iphone and ipod touch.
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In a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG) pool, if one maintains a Free Chlorine (FC) level that is 5% of the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level, then not only is there minimal to no chlorine smell, but there is no need to shock the pool at all under normal circumstances. The same can be said for manually dosed (i.e. non-SWG) pools where the FC is maintained at a minimum of 7.5% of the CYA level.
kudos! this is the method I like. never need to shock or use an algaecide.
however someone told me that I should be keeping my chlorine below a certain amount as this is law. Is there a law that prohibits maintaining a pools chlorine level above a certain amount?
Thanks.
As far as I know of, there is no "law" governing the use of chlorine levels in a pool. This is something you would have to check in your particular area, however, I also don't know why anyone would want an abnormally high concentration of chlorine as this does just as much damage to your pool surface as having too little sanitizer with an algae infestation.
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when your automatic cleaner is plugged into the suction side, it will increase the pressure in the pump/filter/chlorinator/etc...
How does that work? Putting more load on the suction side(i.e. attaching the Kreepy Krauly) will reduce the pressure that the pump puts out, not increase it.
This increased pressure will suck in air from the environment if everything isn't screwed on tightly. This includes the covers for the pump & chlorinator as well as the clamps that holds the filter together.
I can see the pump lid, and some suction side Cl feeders, but how does air get sucked into the pressure environment of a filter?
If you have any further questions, feel free to contact our service department at (727) 686-9219 / (813) 639-8890 or visit us on the web at www.swimnsaveusa.com.
This sounds somewhat like a solicitation. The purpose of these forums is to answer the questions of pool owners, as well as the "further questions". The professionals here don't solicit their company's, we just offer our knowledge.
When an automatic cleaner is attached, you are therefore reducing the amount of water flow continuously entering the pump. with this happening, the pump still wants to keep "sucking" something, so it will start to suck air from any loose fittings INCLUDING the lid of an unsecured pump housing.
Correct, However,as more air gets sucked in, you begin to loose prime which will DECREASE your pressure not increase it. Also, you didn't explain how air gets sucked in through the fllter clamp when running.
Also...I am not soliciting, if that were true, I would have said "hey, we have a whole new system we can sell you for $1,500!!!" that is not true, I was referring to our DIY guide and also our SERVICE department, not SALES. Our company does well by NOT pushing products, excess chemicals, etc onto customers unlike the other stores. We simply help anyone with questions and most likely, they are more than satisfied saving money with us and having this rapport therefore switching to us for their pool and patio needs!
Then one would not have to call you, but to ask further question(s) here. So others can learn/benefit from the responses. Thats what this forum is for.
air can also get sucked in via the filter if A:) The o-ring is worn or bad OR B:) The clamps or "nut" is not tightened down. other reasons air may be in his/her system can stem all the way up to cracked pipe(s), bad hoses, or a combination there-of.
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when your automatic cleaner is plugged into the suction side, it will increase the pressure in the pump/filter/chlorinator/etc...
How does that work? Putting more load on the suction side(i.e. attaching the Kreepy Krauly) will reduce the pressure that the pump puts out, not increase it.
This increased pressure will suck in air from the environment if everything isn't screwed on tightly. This includes the covers for the pump & chlorinator as well as the clamps that holds the filter together.
I can see the pump lid, and some suction side Cl feeders, but how does air get sucked into the pressure environment of a filter?
If you have any further questions, feel free to contact our service department at (727) 686-9219 / (813) 639-8890 or visit us on the web at www.swimnsaveusa.com.
This sounds somewhat like a solicitation. The purpose of these forums is to answer the questions of pool owners, as well as the "further questions". The professionals here don't solicit their company's, we just offer our knowledge.
When an automatic cleaner is attached, you are therefore reducing the amount of water flow continuously entering the pump. with this happening, the pump still wants to keep "sucking" something, so it will start to suck air from any loose fittings INCLUDING the lid of an unsecured pump housing.
Also...I am not soliciting, if that were true, I would have said "hey, we have a whole new system we can sell you for $1,500!!!" that is not true, I was referring to our DIY guide and also our SERVICE department, not SALES. Our company does well by NOT pushing products, excess chemicals, etc onto customers unlike the other stores. We simply help anyone with questions and most likely, they are more than satisfied saving money with us and having this rapport therefore switching to us for their pool and patio needs!
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You are no doubt talking about No-Chlor which is just potassium monopersulfate and is NOT specifically designed for salt pools. It can be used in any pool, but is a lot more expensive to use than just superchlorinating with chlorine, such as bleach or chlorinating liquid. Also, if you properly maintain an appropriate FC/CYA ratio, there is usually no need to shock a pool at all.
chem geek, you are absolutely correct, you can use them on salt, chlorine & bromine based sanitized pools, however, most pool owners select the salt water alternative due to a number of reasons, one of the most common is the absence of the "chlorine" smell. Using "no chlor" will in fact keep the need for chlorine type products not be placed into your pool. In all circumstances, it is really up to the pool owner as to the decision of using cal-hypo, no-chlor, or simply super chlorinating using the mix of muriatic acid/liquid chlorine, or tablets. Of course, super chlorinating or cal-hypo is the cheaper alternative
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Hello all.. i have the same problem. when my pump shuts off DE goes back into the pool. I have a brand new pump, DE filter, check valve and some various tubing. In the skimmer there is a valve that i can rotate and when i turn it all the way in one direction DE does not get in the bottom of the pool. but today i had the spa on and when i turned the pump off the bottom of the spa filled up with DE. i'm lost i have no idea what else to do. when kreepy krawly is installed there is bubbles coming in the pool and if i take kreepy out the bubbles go away... any ideas??? thank you all in advance.
when your automatic cleaner is plugged into the suction side, it will increase the pressure in the pump/filter/chlorinator/etc... This increased pressure will suck in air from the environment if everything isn't screwed on tightly. This includes the covers for the pump & chlorinator as well as the clamps that holds the filter together. If the problem goes away when the automatic cleaner is disconnected, this appears to be the problem. If you have any further questions, feel free to contact our service department at (727) 686-9219 / (813) 639-8890 or visit us on the web at www.swimnsaveusa.com.
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I read somewhere that you have to use an oxidizer like Cal Hypo to shock an SWG pool. but why would a SWG pool need to be shocked? doesn't the cell destroy CC?
Thanks
There is a special "no-chlor" shock specifically designed for salt water generator pool systems. If you need any further assistance, feel free to call our service department at (727) 686-9219 / (813) 639-8890 or visit us on the web at www.swimnsaveusa.com. We have an on-site "do it yourself" guide as well as tips, advice, sales, promotions & giveaways.
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Hi All
My Landlord has refused to replace the salt water cell in our pool and has informed us to treat it as a chlroinated one ?!?!?!
I seem to be using an awful lot of chlorine etc to get the levels right. Can you just convert a pool like that or is there some mechanical work involved ??
Thanks
If you plan on staying there for awhile, it may be cheaper in the long run to just replace the cells that have burnt out. They are usually rated to last 10,000 hours (4-5 years). Chlorine will cost much, much more than the cost of replacement cells & the few bags of salt you will go through compared to the hight cost of chlorine, stabilizers, etc... Feel free to browse our store at www.swimnsaveusa.com as we always run promotions, sales, free products & an on-site "do it yourself" guide to help you through troubleshooting. Also, contact our service department at (727) 686-9219 / (813) 639-8890 if you have any further questions, or a price quote on your particular cell replacement.
Pressure High Even With No De
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
Although having broken pieces of the grid can cause slight pressure increases, it will not cause enough for the pressure they are noting. It sounds more like a clogged line between the filter and the returns, or can also be DE clogged in the bulkhead elbow or a multi-port valve issue.