Jump to content

HockeyKat

Members
  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by HockeyKat

  1. We got an old spa from a friend, where the tub itself was in perfect condition but the skirting and electronic parts were not.

    We decided to go DIY on most of it... have replaced both pumps and the control pack/topside controls from ebay, as well as the cover (twice), and painted the skirting.

    It's been a bit of an adventure in learning how to do all of this, with some bumps here and there, but we probably have less than $800-1K invested, 5 years later, and lots of good tubbing time in the process. :)

  2. With undermounts, do you have to lift the spa? Any recommendations for doing so? My spa is old and the skirting is iffy.

    The brackets are not that big and have holes to fasten to surfaces. If you don't mind you can leave the brackets out from the spa. Otherwise I would wait until the spa is empty and alot of times you use a rubber mallet to get them under the spa. i do not recommend any type of prying device. It could break the frame

    Thanks!! We can't fasten it to the surface as the tub is sitting on a stamped concrete patio. But, we definitely could use a mallet to get the brackets under.

  3. I couldn't agree more with what people are saying here.

    My GFCI has tripped once in 5 years, and it was because my tub was emptying itself (plumbing issue). I was in it at the time, and couldn't be happier that it tripped, and therefore I am alive to be typing this right now.

    The breaker box was about $75-100 at Lowe's and included everything. It looks almost exactly like the A/C one but is made for spas/hot tubs. Have them wire that in between your current breaker and your spa.

  4. No hotties in this one today...gedc0344.jpg

    Go brush that puppy off and get in!!

    We got 8 inches here in NC last weekend, and that is the first thing we did. With a beer, of course!!

    We have a kegerator about 10 steps from the tub, just inside the door. I can 100% speak from experience that drinking in the hot tub may not be recommended, but we sure as heck do a lot of it.

    Btw, don't EVER spill beer in the tub. Yeasties and hot water = BAD.

  5. I will third the used market.

    I actually got mine for free, but had to put about $600 into it for parts up front -- paint, new control pack/topside, 1 new pump, and a new cover, all from ebay and DIY assembly. We have probably put another $150 in parts (plus DIY labor), and then just got a new cover ($250), so total into it is $1K for a free tub and 4.5 years of use.

    It's sure not the highest end one out there, and is probably 15-20 years old, but it works for us!

    Electricity hit hasn't been too bad, but we live in a warmer climate and run it as a cool spa in the summer.

  6. I agree with pkillur.

    What we did was find an electrician that was willing to work with us. Even with a new construction, we still had to run a dedicated line to the tub, about 30 feet from the electrical panel. The electrician gave us a list of parts and we bought them at Lowes and did all of the manual labor ourselves... digging a 30 ft trench, burying conduit, installing the GFI panel, etc. All he had to do was wire the breaker box, and wire the hot tub control pack. Shaved TONS off the estimate.

  7. Changed my water this Monday the 28. Outside temperature at the start was 19 degrees and when I finished it was 22 degrees.

    I have 2 hoses that I use to drain the tub. A 25 foot hose that connects to the tube drain and the other one is also about 25 feet cut from an old hose that I put in the middle of the tub and start the syphon from the other end manually. Using 2 hoses the tub will empty in an hour and 20 minutes.

    Started @ 10 AM and was finished with the tub filled by 12:30PM

    I do the same thing with mine, as to the syphoning. Can usually have it drained, cleaned, and filled within 3 hours. I fill with 2 hoses as well.

  8. I have a 2001 D1 Nautilus which is rarely used but well kept (filled and running) that I am looking to get rid of. I've been trying to find an answer to my questions and came across this board. Is there an outlet for reselling a used spa? Also, how do I gauge the fair market value of my unit?

    Any assistance is appreciated.

    Craigslist is usually your best bet for large items, as it is mostly local traffic and you don't have to worry about shipping costs. Plus it is free to list.

    I can't really help you on the actual listing price. However, with craigslist, if you are in no hurry you can always start high and then post again with a lower price every week or so.

    How much did you pay new? What are you hoping to get?

  9. Great writeup!!

    Gosh! We bought ours off of Craig's list. It was not very old and was hooked up and working when we looked at it. We didn't even think of wet testing it. The number one feature for us was the size, we needed a small one to fit the spot where it was going to be.

    We bought it, wired it up and haven't had any problems with it. It fits us perfectly and we love it!

    I guess we did everything wrong, but it worked out anyway.

    Dave

    I had the same kind of buying experience... well, not even, because I tried to buy one from CL and got a free fixer-upper from a coworker when I talked about it at work. We fought it for a month or two, replaced parts/plumbling, and have had some issues here and there, but overall we are really happy that we have it.

  10. I don't have any experience with that cover, but it looks like a POS. They don't show you any pictures of the cover off the tub, or of how the cover is constructed, and they want you to send them $175? Plus, with their awesome NO RETURNS FOR ANY REASON policy, how can you go wrong? Send me $150 and I'll ship you a tarp, some tie-down straps, and some trash bags that you can fill with air, and you'll probably have the same effect.

    That looks like something you should stay away from, unless you have an indoor tub in a very warm environment. I don't think it will give you any insulation value at all. You'll be watching your money float away with all the heat loss that your tub will experience.

    Thanks for the advice! I decided to buy a traditional cover, and go with the 5" to 3" taper this time. Maybe it will last a little longer than the last one.

    Our wood cabinet/skirting has seen better days, anyhow, so anything that relies on a tie-down approach is likely to not work very well.

    As to cover lifts... we could go with anything but the cover caddy (it would cover up the bay). I think almost anything will require us to reinforce, though.

  11. I looked through the forum and could only find information on a Spa Cap cover, so sorry if I am a n00b asking a question that has been asked dozens of times....

    Anyhow, my cover has given up the ghost. I was looking on ebay and came across this: http://cgi.ebay.com/FACTORY-DIRECT-BEST-SO...=item359fd4e619

    I have never seen such a thing! Is this any good? I live in central NC, and it rarely gets below freezing here. However, it is very humid and our cover rotted away within 4 years.

    Also, assuming we are to go with a traditional cover, any tips on cover lifts? We built one ourselves and it was rather a fail. Our cabinet is made of wood and it isn't in the best shape, so we would prefer one that didn't require cabinet mounting.

    Thanks!

  12. Can anyone recommend a pump for draining my Sundance Chelsee? How big a unit (GPH) should i buy?

    I have an ultra cheap solution....I siphon it out with the hose on my wet/dry shop vac.

    I start up the vac and start sucking....once the siphon is started, I unplug the vac, and then disconnect the hose from the vac.

    Then I direct it into all the downspouts that I took off the house and connected together.

    I just let it run into my back yard.

    Takes about 5 minutes to drain the tub.

    Wow, that is a great solution. We have been creating the same effect by inserting a running hose, attaching another hose while in the water, then detaching. The shop vac likely creates a much better version.

    Ours is on a patio with a retaining wall about 2 feet away, and a creek behind, so I wouldn't have to mess with the downspouts, although I do have some extra lying around if needed.

  13. Yes it was, got it really cheap, going to see if we use it enough to justify buying a better one. I called the toll free number on the owners manual told them the serial number a new wet end is on the way. Glad to findout all parts are still in stock and can be obtained. Thanks for your replies and am sure I will be asking a lot more questions in the future, like how do you keep the foam down? Thanks again.

    I am new to this forum as well... We have spent 4 years replacing various parts of our used spa. It can be a pain, but still a lot less $$ than buying new.

    For foam reduction, just buy spa-grade anti-foam from Lowes (can be found in the spa/pool area). $6 or so a bottle, and half a capful works like a charm.

×
×
  • Create New...