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GJJ

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Posts posted by GJJ

  1. Here is a good reference for new plaster specifications:

    I would also include these specifications:

    1) Workers will not use accelerants, such as calcium chloride, in the plaster mix.

    2) Workers will only use certified "No-burn" trowels for trowelling the plaster.

    3) Contractor will provide the new plaster with protection from direct sunlight and other sources of excessive heat.

    4) Contractor will provide a way to keep all of the new plaster continuously wet while the pool is filling.

    5) Contractor will be responsible for filling the pool, start-up and chemical balance.

    6) Contractor will be responsible for pool maintenance for the first 30 days.

    Thanks for the info...so here's the verdict:

    Three companies say you must go down to gunite. Always. Bond coating is just a less labor-intensive process, so that's why people do it. One company says sandblasting top layer and bond coating is all that's necessary. Don't disturb the plaster that is originally bonded to gunite...that's your best seal. Other company agrees, but says it will have to be determined which method is best for our pool after supervisor evaluates pool. They have capability to do both and will determine that on the job. Price is the same. So here's the verdict on prices. We're going white plaster here mixed with quartz...I think these days, that's unanimous....mix plaster with 100% quartz and you have a stronger plaster by 5-10 years.

    $4200 (just plaster...not including new "up to code" drain covers, trim tile, etc.) Down to gunite

    $4750 Down to gunite

    $5100 bond coat or gunite...whichever procedure needed

    Don't have in front of me other two bids...somewhere in the vicinity.

    No one offered to maintain pool for 30 days, and the warranties were anywhere from 5-10 years, 5 years being average, and only one company said they'd do chemicals for five days (and charge $450, by the way).

    So, I guess my initial question stands...to jackhammer or not?

  2. We have delamination occurring in our pool. The top layer of plaster is coming off exposing the layer underneath...not gunite. The question is, do we jackhammer out all of the plaster all the way down to the gunite (one company's suggestion), or do we just sandblast off top layer and bondcoat (another company's suggestion). Company A says jackhammer best way...Company B says jackhammer is overkill for our problem and Company A is saying that because they don't have equipment to do both. Help. :huh:

  3. My pool is full of water but the plaster continues to delaminate - or at least flake off. There are are number of visible bubbles that eventually break open and flake away. Perhaps the delamination is no longer happening, but the results are still playing out.

    Same here as well...when I went in and walked around, more "bubbles" pooped and chipped off, so I'm thinking it's worse than it looks. Have two estimates coming in today, so I'll pass on any pertinent info I gather. They are replaster companies, so I'm assuming they'll come in with, "you have to repair this ASAP." I'll try to get an honest answer.

    To jackhammer out all of the plaster or not...that is now the question. One company says you just need to sand blast off top layer, the other company says you need to jackhammer it all out. Make it stop please.

  4. My pool is full of water but the plaster continues to delaminate - or at least flake off. There are are number of visible bubbles that eventually break open and flake away. Perhaps the delamination is no longer happening, but the results are still playing out.

    Same here as well...when I went in and walked around, more "bubbles" pooped and chipped off, so I'm thinking it's worse than it looks. Have two estimates coming in today, so I'll pass on any pertinent info I gather. They are replaster companies, so I'm assuming they'll come in with, "you have to repair this ASAP." I'll try to get an honest answer.

  5. Without looking at it, it is hard to tell how urgent it is. Delaminations tend to spread if they are not repaired. Waiting may increase the amount of plaster that has to be removed. Once the pool is full, delaminations don't spread as fast. Waiting a few months might not cause too much increase in the damage, but it's hard to say.

    Doing it now is risky due to the heat. Fresh plaster needs to be kept hydrated or it will craze and dry out. If it were done now, I would want some way to block direct sun and a way to continuously hydrate the plaster as the pool is filling.

    You may want to hire an independent service person to check the plaster and advise you on whether or not it would be best to do it now, or if it would be OK to wait.

    Whenever it is done, all of the loose plaster will have to be removed and the plaster under the tile and around the fittings will have to also be removed. Since the new plaster will be about 1/2-inch thick, the plaster near any tile or fitting has to be removed out to several inches to allow a smooth transition.

    When interviewing contractors, ask them if they are prepared to remove all of the old plaster, if necessary. Ask them how they would do it. Ask them what they will do to keep the plaster from getting too hot and how they will keep the plaster hydrated as the pool is filling.

    Also, have the tile evaluated to make sure that all of the tiles are securely bonded. Any tiles that are not securely bonded will have to be removed and replaced. You can lightly tap on the tiles with the plastic (not metal) end of a screwdriver to tell if they are solid or hollow. The difference in sound is very noticeable.

    How much of the tile was recently replaced? Just a few, or all of it?

    There were a couple of "sections" of tile that were removed and replaced....the spa wall between the spa and pool and then a section about 2' X 2' on one of the bond walls. Also, a few tiles in the corners were replaced where they were loosened. The tile guy did a great job and went around himself and checked every tile to make sure they were adhered well. The sound is definitely different when they are not bonded. The tile should not be an issue.

    I guess my main concern is that the gunite is not getting wet...that the "new" layer of plaster we are seeing is still waterproof. I really don't care how much of the pool becomes delaminated because at this point, it is obvious we need to replaster. We just want to wait until it's cooler/conditions are better, but we don't want "problems" (meaning leakage, damage to gunite, etc.) to get worse. If it's just cosmetic, if more could delaminate, that's fine. We have a guy coming out today...it will be interesting to see what he says.

  6. Some of the areas are bigger than my hand and growing. Trouble is, it seems there are more and more spots cropping up,

    That definitely does not sound good. Sanding won't work. I'm thinking that much of the second layer of plaster may have to be removed.

    You can scoop up a piece of the plaster with your leaf net. No need to jump in.

    The quartz is stronger and more durable, but somewhat rougher depending on how the surface is finished. Be sure that the contractor shows you actual samples so that you can feel the texture. I would avoid the pebble. It can look nice but it is too rough for most people.

    Jumped in and pulled up a small piece. About 3/32" thick or 1/8" at most. Sanding definitely is not an option at this point...it is literally peeling up as I moved across the bottom. It would take forever to sand. Here's my question before a new round of contractors come in for bids...is this a cosmetic issue only or does this need to be fixed ASAP. I mean, it is obvious we need to replaster, but we're just wondering if it has to be done now to avoid further damage, or is nothing going to happen if we wait a few months. I'd heard the same thing about pebble tech, so we were looking at the Colorquartz or similar plasters. If you have any recommendations, please feel free to divulge. You've been right on the money so far, and I appreciate the advice. Hindsight, and the pool contractor should have warned us, we should have done the tile work above water line, mastic, and waited to seal cracks until it was cooler.

  7. How thick are the chips that have come up? How deep are the defective spots? How wide are the spots?

    If it's a full layer of plaster, then sanding won't work. If it's just a thin layer, like less than 3/32-inch, then maybe sanding would work. Plaster is normally 3/8-inch to 3/4-inch thick.

    It's pretty thin, but I think more than 3/32-inch. I'm going to get a piece when it heats up. Some of the areas are bigger than my hand and growing. Trouble is, it seems there are more and more spots cropping up, so it would take a scuba diver and half a day to sand them. We're getting estimates on replastering this week. Any suggestions there? We've heard the new quartz plasters are much stronger.

  8. The delaminations could have been partly the result of poor procedure on the part of the people who replastered the pool. If the original plaster was not properly prepared, the new plaster would not have good adhesion.

    Sometimes the delaminated sections fill with water, and when they are heated by the sun, the water expands and causes the bubble to break open.

    The contractor who drained your pool to work on the tiles should have informed you that there was some chance of finding delaminations and that there was the chance of new delaminations happening while the pool was drained.

    The contractor should have taken reasonable precautions to avoid causing new delaminations. If the work was done on a very hot and sunny day, then the risk of delamination is fairly substantial.

    While the pool was drained, the contractor should have thoroughly checked the entire pool for delaminations and repaired them. If the contractor were experienced, they would know this.

    At a minimum, they should be responsible for draining and refilling the pool. If they took reasonable precautions to avoid causing new delaminations, then you would be responsible for the repair costs.

    If they did not take reasonable precautions, then they should be responsible for the repairs.

    Either way, they should have made you aware of the risk.

    We just spoke with the contractor, and he said to just go underwater and sand them to blend with non-delaminated plaster. The spots are white, so I guess we are looking at plaster not gunite. Is this a reasonable solution? A reasonable response from contractor? Admittedly, our plaster is not in the best condition, but it definitely was not chipping before repairs.

  9. Thanks for your help. There was a crack that they also repaired below the water line. The pool has not been replastered in at least 15-20 years. We have lived in the house for 8 years. I went out and checked. The material that is exposed from under the bubbling and flaking off is white. Can these areas be patched? Or do I have to have the entire pool replastered? It would be nice if they could fix it without draining the pool again (this may be a stupid statement). Is that possible?

    The people that repaired it come back to work tomorrow. They seem reputable. So, I think they will treat us fairly.

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