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oldparr

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Posts posted by oldparr

  1. @chem geek: My FC was 3 ppm, so I think the measurement was correct

    @gman: Yes, I have topped off 2 or 3 times. That can be the reason for the higher TA. What I think is strange is that the PH was rock solid 3 days before the addition of the Gentle Spa. But no sweat, now the water is perfect again. I enjoyed the almost full moon last night :)

    Regards,

    oldparr

  2. Oldparr,

    Pro Team's Gentle Spa is supposed to be pH neutral. I have been using Gentle Spa for 2 years without a problem with rising pH. Therefore, my first thoughts after reading your post was that the cause of your pH rise is from another source or condition. Of course, it's possible that your batch of Gentle Spa is flawed in some way.

    Given you did not post any of your other water chemistry numbers, such as TA, CH (or Br), FC, CYA, CC, etc., (unfortunately), either before or after the addition of Gentle Spa, nor did you tell us what you may have added to your water in addition to Gentle Spa, if anything, we have no idea what was/is in your water.

    If you post some numbers, and provide more information of what's in your water, we may be able to help explain your sudden rise in pH.

    BTW, how did you determine your concentration (level) of Borates (not that I think the Gentle Spa is the cause of your high pH)?

    Kindest regards,

    gman B)

    Gman,

    Unfortunately, I do not have the numbers prior to the addition of the gentle spa. I measured my PH 3 days ago and it was 7.6 (it was in the range 7.5-7.7 for a couple of months). Also, my TA was 60 2 or 3 months ago. Since then, I didn't measure it until now. After the gentle spa, it was 80. Now, I'm lowering it with dry acid. I use the CYA then bleach method (I add stabilizer right after the refill). I added 16oz of gentle spa using a postage scale and a plastic bag.

    Regards,

    oldparr

  3. Hello everyone,

    I have a 550 gallon SPA. The water in it is now 6 months old. I'm using Dichlor than bleach method. I use it twice a week, two people for about 1.5 hour each time. The water is perfect and my question is: do I have to change it now? My concern is the concentration of salt (Na-Cl) which I do not have a test for. How much salt will be bad for the hot tub?

    Thanks!

  4. Thanks to all who posted replys! It is a little overwhelming to absorb all that must be learned to manage the therapy pool environment.

    Our goal was to use as few chemicals as possible since Liz would be in the pool everyday. We have read the previous forum posts regarding mineral bacteria control but it requires the use of a sanitizer anyway. Same thing as with an ozonator. So we will try the chlorine method suggested.

    We have ordered the K2006 test kit and will get some Dichlor from the local supply store (Chicago area). We tested the tap water with test strips and can see that they are not very accurate.

    We picked out a pump/filter package that will filter 30GPM. Now we are looking at electric heaters and two seem like good choices.

    Raypak 11022 11KW and Hayward CSPAXI11 11KW. Both will require 240VAC, 60 AMP circuit. Raypak is about $75 more. Any suggestions welcome.

    When the pool arrives, we will need to cut round openings for the suction and drain fittings. We are curious what is the best height for the return/drain line? There are NO jets, just the two lines to and from the pump/filter/heater. Would more than one return line, e.g. one close to the bottom and one about half way up be better?

    The cover we ordered is a bubble pack type we plan to attach to a sheet of ridgid insulation and lay the bubble pack side against the water. The thought here is to keep the cover in place to reduce heat loss. More insulation on top of the pool and sides may be necessary as the weather cools even though the garage(faces South) is insulated, R40 ceiling, R22 walls, and R8 doors.

    We are also working on an entry/exit system that will be safe for carrying Liz in and out of the pool.

    A lot to think about!

    P.S. To footie. After 30 years with a CP child nothing offends us anymore. Liz has a number of serious motor problems that prevent her from speaking, walking, standing or sitting without support but so far she has excellent bowl/bladder control. Her muscle spasms are reduced with the warm water pool.

    Make sure you will hire a good electrician to install a good GFCI circuit.

    Good luck!

    Claudio

  5. Ok....

    JUst went for a soak last night and said to hell with it.

    Measured today.....

    CC-0

    FC 3ppm

    alk110

    ph7.3

    CYA (measured for the first time) estimated at 120-150 using taylor kit. I know this is high, not sure if it's a concern.

    Water isn't cloudy, but not crystal clear. has sort of a dull slight yellowish tint (not urine). Water is about a month and a half old.

    Any ideas on next steps? This is all new to me. If at all possible I do not want to drain and refill.

    oh ya... no ozone or Nature2

    Help please!

    Your CYA is way to high. Try to dump at least half the water and refill, bringing the CYA to 60. And take a look on the Nitro approach to water maintenance. I'm using Dichlor than bleach method and my refill is 5 month old with no problems. Water is cristal clear.

  6. Wouldn't it be easier to just dose with Dichlor a couple of times (instead of bleach) to get CYA back up? I just hate to buy another chem just to use it once or twice.

    I think it would be easier, but when I got my tub, I bought tons of stuff. One of them was 100% CYA. Now I have to use it. 100% CYA might be cheaper too, but I never did a good calculation on that.

  7. Snow is something we generally only see on TV here in East Texas. This morning, however, we were blessed with a light dusting that is expected to accumulate an inch or two later this evening. I've soaked down into the 20s before, but not yet in the snow. Here's to hoping!

    Just got out of the tub here in Dallas region (McKinney). For you in north east and Canada that will sound silly, but we had 7'' of snow!!! Wonderful tubing in snow!

  8. It happened to me too. At some point, I couldn't measure the hardness with a HTH test kit. Then I bought a Taylor K-2006 and I could measure it - the Calcium Hardness was 140ppm. I don't know what was wrong with the HTH kit. The sample didn't became red with the indicator.

    My tub's calcium hardness was 180ppm right after the refill. I think my cover let some rain inside the tub. It's raining a lot here at Dallas area.

  9. I'd be concerned about the Trichlor tablets. They are very acidic so you are right to raise the TA to help counter-act that, but with the cover closed on the spa there won't be much outgassing of carbon dioxide counter-act that acidity. You are right that the tablets will dissolve slowly at 60F -- that's a lot lower than even pool temperatures -- but are you using small Trichlor tabs used for spas? I assume you aren't talking about the large ones used for pools. Can you tell me the size of the tablets? Are they 1-ounce 1/2" tablets? If so, then one of these in 350 gallons would raise the FC by 20 ppm and lower the pH from 7.5 to 7.2. I think that 4-5 tablets is way overkill and dangerous, if these are the kind I just described. At the most I'd only use 2 tablets and have the feeder on its lowest setting -- if they both dissolved then that would be 40 ppm FC and a pH down to 7.0. Not great, but not a disaster either -- I still think one tablet would be safer.

    Do you have an ozonator? If not, then the 30% CD sounds like you might need to clean your filter.

    Chem Geek,

    I didn't buy the tablets yet. I was thinking in buying the 1'' ones and use them with the feeder in the lowest setting. Do you think they are too large? I have a 650 Gal tub. I tested my CD a while ago. I'm going to clean the filter and test it again. Should I expect a significant drop in the CD with lower temps (lower than 100Fº)?

    Thanks

  10. I'm leaving for a 15 day vacation. I use the dichlor/bleach method and I don't want to switch to bromine. My plan is to low the water temp to 60F (the lowest my tub can go), put 20ppm using bleach and leave a floating with 4 or 5 tablets of thichlor. I intent to raise the TA from 50 to 80 - to control the acid that will come from the trichlor.

    I think that with 60F the CD will drop (now it is 30%) and the tablets will dissolve very slowly. I live in Dallas, so I'm not very concerned about freeze.

    My CYA is 35 and CA is 150

    What do you think about that strategy?

    Claudio

  11. OldParr and Mike,

    Though both of your readings were low, the sample mixed with reagent wasn't clear, was it? That is, it was lightly cloudy, but not enough to obscure the black dot at the lowest reading available on your test kit, correct?

    Richard

    That's correct. I edited my post. I said below 20ppm, but that is incorrect. My test kit lowest reading is 30ppm and the dot was barely visible at this point. So I presume my CYA was between 20 and 25ppm. Now I will use dichlor for 3 days and test again.

  12. Hi all,

    This is my fist post. I just bought a Leisure Bay "Flores". I live in Dallas region (100+ºF now!!). I read a lot about Spa chemicals and I think I can leave the spa uncovered in the summer using Sodium Dichlor and monitoring the CYA levels. Is that right?

    I'm also concerned about the other parts of the spa. Is it safe to leave it without the cover?

    Thank you!

    oldparr.

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