tedinelkgrove
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Posts posted by tedinelkgrove
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As a practical matter, given your CYA and CH levels, I wouldn't bother testing tomorrow AM - you'll see only nominal changes in your test results; you really need to drain 1/2 your pool volume and refill. That should not pose any problems w/ a gunite pool, and should reduce both your CYA and CH levels by half, leaving your CH within range for a gunite pool (250-400) upon refill although, as Richard noted your CYA will still be a bit high (100 is still too high but definitely much more manageable than your current level). While refill time will vary depending upon your local water pressure, my notes indicate I was able to re-fill roughly half of my 16,500Gal pool overnight w/ a single hose.
You'll need to add tremendous amounts of chlorine until you reduce your CYA level. You're right to adapt to bleach - not so much to maintain FC but instead to keep your CYA from getting out of control. Those jugs get heavy, so best to drain/refill ASAP.
How do I drain the pool? I assume I need a submersible pump and a hose long enough to go to the street/storm drain.
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Thanks for the advice Richard. I am going to dilute the pool tonight and fill it to the top tile. My auto-fill seems to always keep it low (middle of bottom tile, 3 tiles total, even at high setting), so this gives me an excuse to fill it all the way up. I'll check FC/TC/CC in the morning, along with pH, CYA, and TA. Just to see if there is any change and I'll adjust according to the pool calculator. That is a great tool.
My supply water is relatively low in Ca/CaCO3, 18 and 78ppm respectively. This is according to a Sac County water report. I would imagine a refill when the temps cool will be warranted. Is it better to drain/refill during cooler weather?
Ted
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Imnay, I appreciate the advice but you are comparing apples and oranges. You live in humid Florida which gets plenty of rain and dilutes your pool. I live in the dry Sacramento Valley of California where it doesn't rain from May until Nov, the humidity is very low, and I get direct sunlight all day long (no shade). Plus my pool is plaster, so TA and the use of algaecides does matter with respect to staining and care of plaster. I may be new to pools, but I have a degree in Biology and I am a LC mass spectrometer field service engineer. So I actually enjoy taking care of the pool and doing the necessary testing.
Richard, please see my post on FC level in Water Chemistry.
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My CYA is really high. According to my test kit it is around ~200ppm. From reading posts on the forum, I need to keep my FC high in order to combat the high CYA level. But being my test kit only shows a maximum color index equivalent to 5ppm for chlorine, how can I tell what my true FC level is? I use the Leslie's Complete Poolcare DPD Test Kit. I just did a Chlorine test and FC and TC had same color (a little darker than the 5ppm level), so CC is ~0.
After I figure this out, what level of FC do I want? I see a lot of recommendations for FC to be at 10% of the CYA level. But 20ppm of FC seems really high.
I was using Cl tabs, but I have stopped due to high CYA and CH. I want to start a liquid bleach protocol for maintaining proper FC levels. I will drain the pool when the heat subsides to bring CYA and CH back down. It is 100+ here in the valley and I was reading never drain a pool in hot weather.
16000 gallon pool
pH = 7.6
TA = 100
CH = 750...ouch!
However, pool looks great and water is sparkling.
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When you are tightening the clamp, the gap is decreasing. Do not decrease the gap past 1/16 inch. In other words, don't tighten so much that you make the two half's touch.
That fixed it. Thanks for clarifying the gap issue.
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You probably need a new oring. It may not look like it.
Just to be sure, Your not exceeding Less than 1/16 inch?
That is the question, what do they mean by the gap should not exceed 1/16"? The wording they use makes it seem like the gap should be less than 1/16". Do you think they actually mean the gap should be greater than 1/16"? Where can I get a Jandy o-ring locally?
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I cleaned my Jandy filter cartridges yesterday. There were 4 all together, very dirty. I made sure to put everything back just as I had taken them off. It went pretty easy. Only issue is the tank has a slow leak where the ring clamp goes around. I removed everything and made sure the BIG o-ring is not kinked or has anything on it. All looked fine. I also made sure to tighten the clamp so as not to exceed 1/16th of an inch gap where the ends meet. This is note on the ring clamp.
Any suggestions? Do I need to lubricate the o-ring?
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I answered the CYA question in your other post.
FC and TC being the same is good, it means your CC (combined chlorine) is low or zero and there is probably no problem (algae etc) in the pool currently. Does the water look clear?
Liquid chlorine (from pool stores or pool departments) or regular unscented bleach (Clorox etc) are usually the cheapest forms of chlorine in the long run, and don't add anything to the pool except chlorine (and a teeny bit of salt too little to worry about).
--paulr
Paul, thanks for the replies. The water is crystal clear and sparkling. I guess I'll just buy some bleach when needed.
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The only way to reduce CYA is to drain and replace water. The tabs (trichlor) contribute both chlorine and CYA; the chlorine gets used up but the CYA does not, it just accumulates forever.
One way to get a better handle on your CYA level is to dilute the sample 50-50 with tap water (which has no CYA) and try again. Double the result of course. If it STILL shows > 100 then your CYA is really > 200...
If your fill water is low in calcium, then that would be another reason to drain and refill, you would kill two birds with one stone. I poked around on the Leslie's website and didn't see anything claiming to reduce calcium; what is it?
--paulr
The weighted avergae of calcium in our drinking water is ~21ppm. That was a 2007 water analysis done for our area by the Sacramento County Water Agency, http://www.msa.saccounty.net/waterresource...2008_Laguna.pdf. So based on that analysis, I would say our supply is low in calcium.
Can I drain half the water or just do it all? What about the pool "popping out" of the ground? You know these crazy Californians.
I'll have to stop by Leslie's to get some stuff today. I'll see what the name of the so-called calcium reducing product is.
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pH was 7.6
Alkalinity ~100ppm
CYA was 100+++ (only took a little liquid to hide the black dot)
Calcium was ~750ppm...OUCH!
FC and TC had same color reading (seemed darker than the 5ppm). I guess no chlorine is needed?
I suppose Calcium is what it is until I can drain the pool a bit. Leslie's sells a product that claims to reduce calcium. Any thoughts?
To get CYA in normal range, I am taking the chlorine tab out of the pool. I assume the CYA in the tab is a big contributor to my high CYA reading.
Any ideas on chlorine?
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After my initial testing, I discovered my CYA is way too high, 100+++ according to the test kit, Calcium is 750ppm, and my FC and TC are the same color.
My first plan of attack is to stop using those chlorine hockey pucks for the time being which should help getting my CYA under control. Any other suggestions? If FC and TC are same, is that good?
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I bought the all-inclusive test kit from Leslie's. It has everything to test for TC, FC, CYA, Calcium, Alkalinity, etc..
As far as shocking the pool, I was told I need to do this once a month to balance out the FC and TC amounts. What kind of shock chlorine do I need? There are quite a few types.
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I am a new pool owner since June 1st. I went to Leslie's pool supply today and bought a chemical test kit, muriatic acid, and a pumice bar for removing scale. I still need to get chlorine (granular and tabs). Are there better places to get pool supplies at a cheaper price? Are there certain brands of chlorine that are superior to others? Are there other chemicals I need? The pool is looking great. I had a service get it up and running, but that was just for the first month. I am on my own now.
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Well, I called Jandy and they said to get the information of the PCB chip and email it to them. Still waiting for a repsonse. Any ideas on which PDA I can buy?
Chip: PORS 4, Rev. PDA 1.2, 8269
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If you have a good pool service Co. in your area, he should have a service panel he can hook up to your unit and be able to program for you. Make sure he tells you what revision you have, It should come up when he plugs his panel in. That way, when you go to order your new PDA, you'll be able to get a revision compatible unit. They just recently rolled out a new faster PDA. Hopefully you'll be able to get the new type because the old rev. PDA is painfully slow.
I have a pool guy (family friend who gets chemistry right and cleans) but he was not familiar with the aqualink RS and accessories. Is the revision labeled on the main PCB, or is it a firmware rev. only revealed by software/interface?
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We bought a foreclosed home with a pool, and they took the remote. I have the Jandy Aqualink RS panel and there is a black diamond shaped transmitter (with antenna) on the out side of the panel. I need a way of programming the pump to come on and off in "auto" mode. It runs, but for only 3 hrs. I assume I need the PDA to program that feature. My question is which PDA do I need and how do I tell what revision will work? I only have a pool, no spa, with waterfall feature which is control by manually turning a valve, and a light wired to aux 1. I have a legend II pressure side sweeper with no booster pump necessary.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I am new with pools...but love it!!!
If My Cya Is High, How Much Fc?
in Swimming Pool Water Chemistry
Posted
Richard, I order the FAS-DPD Chlorine test kit you recommended. That should really help out with determining how much chlorine (FC, etc.) I have in the pool. I also added a gallon of 10% bleach (from Lowe's). The Pool Calculator said I need to add 2 gallons based on my current chemical levels, but I'll hold off on adding more until I get he FAS-DPD test kit.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Ted