Private Shrink
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Posts posted by Private Shrink
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It may be the stickler variable that determines satisfaction with BaquaSpa. My wife and I not only shower before using the tub (kids are grown and out) but we always go in naked (tub is indoors in a sunroom in isolated country setting). So, we really keep contaminants to a minimum.
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I have just bought a 2006 Sundance Optima. Im using Baqua Spa. This is my first hot tub. After 2 months I've had to replace the filter because it caved in, I keep getting a sticky brown scum line. The spa dealer told me that the filter caved in because the chemicals fouled up the filter. We had to replace the water several times also. Has anyone else had this problem? Is anyone out there that can give me some advice as to what chemicals to use?
I switched from baquaspa to nature2 about a month ago. That was a fantastic decision!
Any baqua spa lovers want to buy a bunch of unopened chemicals?
Seriously, I have a bunch of them.GOOD GOD! Where did you dig this thread up from??? Its almost 5 years old!
Just want to chime in that I've been using BaquaSpa in my Sundance Capri for nearly 4 years now and I couldn't be happier. Water is crystal clear, no odor, no problems, and maintenance is about 5 minutes once a week.
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Can you offer a few anecdotes about the downsides of Chlorine and Bromine?
Ok, let's hear them.
I was actually hoping that you had some, and were holding back. LOL. Okay, how about the lady that burned herself from chlorine. Or the guy who breathed in Bromine and his lungs got sucked up by the filter. Ah, I made those up. I've just read lots of posts about smells, irritations, ugly smelly water, etc. But in truth, I respect the knowledge of both you and Waterbear, I'm just a happy BaquaSpa user (so far...three years and counting).
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There has been some discussion about Biguanide (Soft Soak, Baquacil etc) lately, so I thought I'd post some important info. Anyone considering this method of sanitation needs to read this.
Here is a post by Waterbear (the expert on the subject) from this thread.
Biguanide works by causing bacterial cells to 'explode'. The 'baquagoo' is actually the remains of the cell wall and other stuff. Biguanide is not an oxidizer so these bacterial remains do not get 'burned off' like they do with chlorine and bromine. The peroxide oxidier that is used with biguanide does help burn them off to an extent but it is not as strong an oxidizing agent at the concentrations used. Higher concentrations are out of the question because they would cause bather discomfort, to say the least!This goo gets collected in the filter where it is, hopefully, removed by frequent filter cleaning (MUCH more fequent than is needed with either chlorine or bromine.)
This is just the nature of the beast, so to speak, when using a biguanide system.
Also, since it is basically a biocide like the antibiotics our doctor's prescribe it has been found that bacteria do develop an immunity to it over time much like they can do with antibiotics, which is why both pink slime and white water mold, which are both bacterial, are a problem with biguanide system.
Biguanide is also used as a medical preservative and there has been a case in recent years where it was used in a popular contact lens solution that let to the outbreak of a corneal amoeba infection that led to blindness in several cases. There was a large recall of this well known contact lens solution just a few years back because of this. Once again this seems to be more evidence of it's limited effectiveness as a biocide. Also, it is not registered for use in Canada. What do they know that we don't?
Add to this the known fact that biguanide will destroy certain plastics that have been used in spas and are suspected of affecting pump seals makes this, IMHO, a sanitizer of last resort for those who CANNOT use either chlorine or bromine (rare but it does happen!)
Can you offer a few anecdotes about the downsides of Chlorine and Bromine? This comparison seems so much like the Republicans and Democrats. To hear one talk about the opposing party, you'd think they were referring to either devils or morons. To be even handed and present all of the facts in a balanced manner would be too confusing for the average listener, I suppose. Regarding the "goo," I had a bit three years ago when I started up my hot tub, was told by representatives that it would go away if the water was properly maintained, and IT DID GO AWAY.
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Yes, try to get as much goo off using scrapper, Spa Flush, etc. Afterward I would do a Supershock to clean it all out from the tub, pipes etc. First add Spa Flush (Purge etc) to the tub and let sit overnight. Drain, clean again and refill. Then supershock with Chlorine Bleach (2 cups Clorox) AND MPS (Non-Chlorine Shock 4 oz). Let the jets run for an hour, and let sit over night. This may be an overkill, but it should clean your tub up like new. If not, drain, clean, refill and repeat supershock. Lastly, buy a new filter, because yours is most likely a mess.
Then decide which sanitation method you want to use. Hopefully it will either be Chlorine or Bromine. If you do decide to try Soft Soak (not recommended), you'll need to drain the tub, suck the jets out with a wet vac to remove as much water as possible. Otherwise any Chlorine in the water will react with the Soft Soak and you'll be right back where you started, which may happen anyway if you have Chlorine in your tap water.
Hope that helps.
As always, putting down the Biguanide choice. Apparently the original author didn't much like Bromine. Honestly, I read as many complaints about Chlorine and Bromine as I would expect proportionally about Biguanide. I know...if done correctly, they'd be perfect.
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I have no reason not to believe your first point, that I might not know that you are using Chlorine if I soaked in your tub. I'll also concede that you probably spend less money than I do. But less time...I doubt it. I put in a few minutes once a week. It's so quick and easy that I sometimes feel guilty, LOL. That's why I'm willing to spend a little extra money. And I have perfect water with no odor or side effects. I am not putting down Chlorine, simply saying that done properly, BaquaSpa is laughably easy.
If I were to add up the total amount of time per week I maintain my tub water, it would be about 5 mins. I bring a bottle of Chlorine to the tub when I soak. Then I squirt in the right amount after I get out, and cover it up. I'm at the point where I only check the FC/pH once a week. It doesn't get much easier than that. On my next water change I'll be trying out a SWCG. That should be interesting.
I'm glad BaquaSpa is working out for you (for now), but to consider it much easier to use than Chlorine is a mistake. It really isn't.
Happy tubbing.
I appreciate your experience and reassurance, especially since I may someday be forced to switch from BaquaSpa. I seem to recall from several years ago that Bromine systems are discouraged for indoor use (I may just be imagining that), so I could end up with Chlorine, and I hope it's as successful as yours has been. Of course, until then....
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PS,
I'd be willing to bet if you soaked in my tub, you wouldn't even know I'm using Chlorine. I'd also be willing to bet I spend less time (and a lot less money) maintaining my tub than you.
The biggest reason people get turned off from Chlorine is because they don't use enough. If your tub is well disinfected, you won't notice ANY chlorine smell.
To be honest, I find it silly (sad really) that all these people are looking for an alternative to Chlorine (maybe Bromine). Chlorine is the safest, cheapest and easist to use sanitizer there is, PERIOD! The ONLY reason to use bromine is if you leave the tub alone for long periods. Even then I believe a SWCG is the way to go.
IMHO Chlorine is King.
But what do I know.
I have no reason not to believe your first point, that I might not know that you are using Chlorine if I soaked in your tub. I'll also concede that you probably spend less money than I do. But less time...I doubt it. I put in a few minutes once a week. It's so quick and easy that I sometimes feel guilty, LOL. That's why I'm willing to spend a little extra money. And I have perfect water with no odor or side effects. I am not putting down Chlorine, simply saying that done properly, BaquaSpa is laughably easy.
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Hello,
I am new to this forum and new to spas. I am shopping for a spa but prior to purchasing I am trying to figure out the world of spa sanitizers. Here is the problem, I am what many call "chemically sensitive" I have allergies to most chemicals...have been that way for years. It's a real pain in the neck.
Chlorine gives me dry itchy skin. And the smell gives me a headache. Have heard about Rain Forest Blue.....but after reading the data sheet on it that doesn't look all that safe either; looks like a fungicide they spray on crops(copper sulfate pentahydrate). I am highly allergic to pesticides......can't even spray my own backyard for spiders without it triggering a migraine. Not sure Rain Forest Blue would have the same effect but I am suspicious.
Then there are the ozone makers....well they appear to only do part of the job....and I read that Ozone isn't good for your lungs, really rips up the cells(thats really great)....so you need to install a switch and have it off when your in the spa. Looks like there are some extra powerful ozone maker out there from startup companies....but it's hard to know what to believe on the website claims.
Then I heard about UV...but the companies that sell the units don't seem like they have been around for long....then their is the light bulb replacement which I am sure isn't all that cheap. Also, how do you install them in the spa.
Can someone out there help??? There has gotta be a solution. If not I guess I will just pass on the whole spa purchase idea.
Thanks much!
Try looking at Aquafinesse, they only use salts and you only have to add a trace of chlorine each week. My wife and I have been using it for 18 months. Look at their web site.
BaquaSpa is always criticized by the experts here, and I may someday agree with them. However, we started 3 years ago with BaquaSpa for the exact reasons you gave at the beginning, and we've been absolutely pleased. No smell, no irritation, sparking clean water. We do shower before use and don't use bathing suits, so that probably helps a great deal. And our tub is indoors, so lots of outdoor crap doesn't get in. I will be overjoyed if I never have to switch (drat that pink slime/white mold if it ever comes).
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Does the MPS have any odor?
FWIW, My Capri has been maintained since it's "inauguration" with BaquaSpa, and there is NO smell. The experts here always steer people away from BaquSpa (for good reason I guess...I certainly wouldn't want white mold), but it has served myself and my wife very well with only weekly maintenance, no smell, and crystal clear, healthy water. Sure, BaquaSpa is more expensive, but 15 minutes/week for odor-free clean water, I'd say it's worth it.
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I've had my hot tub about 3 years. Recently I noticed that there were periods of time that the circulation pump wouldn't be on (water just stagnant, waterfall wouldn't turn on, ozonator not on) and the temperature reading would spike up to 106 or even 107. Repairman replaced the circuit board because the capacitors had supposedly blown. Only one week after replacement, I see that the temperature reading was up at 106 again (always without heater being on). A little later the circ. pump started and temp went down to 103. This just doesn't seem normal nor the way it used to work. Shouldn't the circ pump always be on (the setting is for 24 hour duration) and thereby keep the thermostat reading moving water..more accurately? Our electricity in the house has periodically gone off because of storms and we are speculating that this might affect the hot tub but the problem persists even 24 hours after an outage. I don't really know how these things are supposed to work, but in the past the thermostat would typically stay near the upper limit that we had the heater set at. If we set it at 102, the water would rarely go to 103...the tub is inside a sunroom but not in direct sunlight and the room has more often than not been in the 60's temperature wise. I've put another call into repair given that it's under warranty, but my confidence in their knowledge is beginning to wane. Any thoughts?
Thanks for your post. I have made note of it for future reference.
I recently had this issue with my used Capri. When I noticed it, I went to the control panel and re-set the Circ pump to start at whatever was the closest time to NOW. (Even though it was set for 24/7) It did come on then. I had to do this several times (each time I noticed pump not on) ... but now it has been running fine (the last week or so).
I'm guess that it is likely the sensor it is going. Thanks for this info Hot Tub Guy. I'll now be prepared when the resets cease to work.
Crossing my fingers that it won't be for quite awhile! Is that an expensive fix?
The visit was $75, but they didn't charge for the second one. First, they changed the circuit board and the guy said it's a $700 or so item. I believe the temperature sensor is under a hundred, but thankfully we're under warranty for both. Love the Capri.
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I've had my hot tub about 3 years. Recently I noticed that there were periods of time that the circulation pump wouldn't be on (water just stagnant, waterfall wouldn't turn on, ozonator not on) and the temperature reading would spike up to 106 or even 107. Repairman replaced the circuit board because the capacitors had supposedly blown. Only one week after replacement, I see that the temperature reading was up at 106 again (always without heater being on). A little later the circ. pump started and temp went down to 103. This just doesn't seem normal nor the way it used to work. Shouldn't the circ pump always be on (the setting is for 24 hour duration) and thereby keep the thermostat reading moving water..more accurately? Our electricity in the house has periodically gone off because of storms and we are speculating that this might affect the hot tub but the problem persists even 24 hours after an outage. I don't really know how these things are supposed to work, but in the past the thermostat would typically stay near the upper limit that we had the heater set at. If we set it at 102, the water would rarely go to 103...the tub is inside a sunroom but not in direct sunlight and the room has more often than not been in the 60's temperature wise. I've put another call into repair given that it's under warranty, but my confidence in their knowledge is beginning to wane. Any thoughts?
Thanks for your post. I have made note of it for future reference.
I recently had this issue with my used Capri. When I noticed it, I went to the control panel and re-set the Circ pump to start at whatever was the closest time to NOW. (Even though it was set for 24/7) It did come on then. I had to do this several times (each time I noticed pump not on) ... but now it has been running fine (the last week or so).
I'm guess that it is likely the sensor it is going. Thanks for this info Hot Tub Guy. I'll now be prepared when the resets cease to work.
Crossing my fingers that it won't be for quite awhile! Is that an expensive fix?
Turned out that the temperature sensor had (also?) gone bad, causing havoc with circ pump. Happily, repairman came back and put in new temperature sensor (no charge for second visit
) and now everything is back to the way it use to be. When my wife sets temp to 99 (I'd prefer 103 but what can you do), the water temp stays at 99 and the circ pump is on all the time. On the occasion that my electricity goes off because of storms, I too reset the pump to start at the next closest half hour and it works. I recently emptied and refilled and initially water was a bit cloudy (I use BaquaSpa so I started to worry) but a little Water Clarifier fixed everything so I'm in business. Hope you enjoy your Capri, I really like mine. -
I'll throw in my 2 cents, but there may be an easier way.
If it were me, I would still do the decontamination procedure, regardless of which method you use. However, if you want to go back to baguanide, after supershocking do this:
1. Drain and refill
2. Run the jets/air for 20 mins
3. Then drain and refill again
The key is to get as much Chlorine out of the tub and pipes as possible before using baguanide. Chlorine and baguanide don't play well together. i.e. Goo
Someone else may have an easier method though.
SpaFish,
For what it's worth, I've used BaquaSpa since I got my Sundance Capri 3 years ago, and other than some goo at the very beginning, I've been VERY happy with it. Of course, my tub is inside a sunroom and we do shower and go in sans bathing suits, so we're real careful. But the ease of use, clear water, and absence of smell or irritation is pretty darn appealing.
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I've had my hot tub about 3 years. Recently I noticed that there were periods of time that the circulation pump wouldn't be on (water just stagnant, waterfall wouldn't turn on, ozonator not on) and the temperature reading would spike up to 106 or even 107. Repairman replaced the circuit board because the capacitors had supposedly blown. Only one week after replacement, I see that the temperature reading was up at 106 again (always without heater being on). A little later the circ. pump started and temp went down to 103. This just doesn't seem normal nor the way it used to work. Shouldn't the circ pump always be on (the setting is for 24 hour duration) and thereby keep the thermostat reading moving water..more accurately? Our electricity in the house has periodically gone off because of storms and we are speculating that this might affect the hot tub but the problem persists even 24 hours after an outage. I don't really know how these things are supposed to work, but in the past the thermostat would typically stay near the upper limit that we had the heater set at. If we set it at 102, the water would rarely go to 103...the tub is inside a sunroom but not in direct sunlight and the room has more often than not been in the 60's temperature wise. I've put another call into repair given that it's under warranty, but my confidence in their knowledge is beginning to wane. Any thoughts?
First what climate are you in. the spa maybe going into whats called summer logic. and it also sounds like you have a bad temp sensor 6600-167
I'm in Maryland, but as I said the tub in inside a fully enclosed sunroom in which there aren't wild temperature swings. It might get sunny and warm during the day, but unlike summer when temp in the room can get pretty high, during spring the temp in the room remains comfortable in the 60's to 80's during the day. It would be nice if the technician would even mention "summer logic" or temp sensor instead of grunting and exchanging the circuit board with ultimately no benefit.
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I've had my hot tub about 3 years. Recently I noticed that there were periods of time that the circulation pump wouldn't be on (water just stagnant, waterfall wouldn't turn on, ozonator not on) and the temperature reading would spike up to 106 or even 107. Repairman replaced the circuit board because the capacitors had supposedly blown. Only one week after replacement, I see that the temperature reading was up at 106 again (always without heater being on). A little later the circ. pump started and temp went down to 103. This just doesn't seem normal nor the way it used to work. Shouldn't the circ pump always be on (the setting is for 24 hour duration) and thereby keep the thermostat reading moving water..more accurately? Our electricity in the house has periodically gone off because of storms and we are speculating that this might affect the hot tub but the problem persists even 24 hours after an outage. I don't really know how these things are supposed to work, but in the past the thermostat would typically stay near the upper limit that we had the heater set at. If we set it at 102, the water would rarely go to 103...the tub is inside a sunroom but not in direct sunlight and the room has more often than not been in the 60's temperature wise. I've put another call into repair given that it's under warranty, but my confidence in their knowledge is beginning to wane. Any thoughts?
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As always, I'll be the lone voice that touts BaquaSpa. I started with it 3 years ago, and for the first few weeks we had the brown goop. We were told that under proper maintenance it would dissipate and it did completely. Since then, it has been the simplest (once a week quick work) and most enjoyable (no odor, no rash...perfect). I remain on the lookout for white mold but my water is as clear and refreshing as it gets. I fully expect that someday I may have to switch but I couldn't be happier so far for 3 years now.
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My tub is nearly 3 years old and has been working perfectly up until now. Recently, we've had a few incidents (every few weeks) where the temperature displayed starts rapidly jumping from 102 to 103 to 104 to 103...etc. and the heater will be clicking on an off. this isn't normal. Then we can either set the temp. way down for a few seconds and it'll settle down or turn power off then back on and it will be okay. does anyone know if this is the beginning stages of the heater or thermostat acting up? Probably many people wouldn't even notice such a thing until their unit fails, but our tub is in a sunroom that my wife sleeps in so the clicking on and off is immediately bothersome to her. Thanks for any feedback.
Did you buy the spa new?
yep, bought it new almost 3 years ago I believe. Capri 880 Series...has been great, I'm just wondering if this odd thermostat functioning suggests total failure on the way.
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My tub is nearly 3 years old and has been working perfectly up until now. Recently, we've had a few incidents (every few weeks) where the temperature displayed starts rapidly jumping from 102 to 103 to 104 to 103...etc. and the heater will be clicking on an off. this isn't normal. Then we can either set the temp. way down for a few seconds and it'll settle down or turn power off then back on and it will be okay. does anyone know if this is the beginning stages of the heater or thermostat acting up? Probably many people wouldn't even notice such a thing until their unit fails, but our tub is in a sunroom that my wife sleeps in so the clicking on and off is immediately bothersome to her. Thanks for any feedback.
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Its been rumored that Biguanide can do harm to some of the internal workings of the tub itself.
Just what I want, to use rumors to guide my use of chemicals.
Not trying to pick on you. Don't even know if it is true that it hurts the hot tub, which I doubt. But judging by your posts, you are at about the same time limit I was when Baquaspa stopped working(3+ years). I liked Baquaspa too because there was no skin smell, etc.
I know I did more damage shocking the tub heavily to get the mold out, because it wasnt 6 months later, and all the jets started falling out due to the acidic nature of all the bleach I had used breaking the locking tabs.
Just keep an eye on your tub. The white mold wasnt evident until it was more people than my wife and I in the tub raising the water level in the air vent pipes where the white mold was growing, and then shooting it out into the tub. It was so gross, it looked like long stingy cooked egg-whites you might see in your chinese soup only on a lot larger scale.
Thanks for being specific about what to look for. I don't pretend to know the future, and it is honestly unsettling to hear that other people have been as pleased with BaquaSpa as I have been up to the third year, but then developed white mold. Perhaps my only hope is that the tub is almost exclusively used only by my wife and myself, we shower before every use and go in naked, and of course it's indoors. So we have introduced the minimum of contaminants but I don't pretend that that totally protects us. My fingers are crossed because I still don't like what I read about either of my other choices.
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Its been rumored that Biguanide can do harm to some of the internal workings of the tub itself.
Just what I want, to use rumors to guide my use of chemicals.
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You don't even mention Baguanide. FWIW, I've been using BaquaSpa for 3 years with No problems, ease of maintenance and no smell.
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Man, I wish I'd stumble upon one of my hot tub maintenance's at the job with a couple of nice, young, naked ladies with the no swimsuit rule
I have a 2-3 person Sundance, and most of the time it's just me and the wife. We have always gone the naked route, and my water stays great. It's more fun, too.
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renew is not a sanitizer, you are right. It is MPS which is an oxidizer.
To kill that bad germs, you have to have some residual of sanitizer to be safe, ozone does kill stuff, but not as fast as the EPA says it has to, so it can not be considered a sanitizer. The Natural are enzymes that "eat" bacteria, but not as fast as the EPA says they need to so thats where it falls into this "war".
After talking several times back and forth with the guy from the Natural hot tub company, they got in trouble from the EPA for selling their prouct as a sanitizer, so they tell people to use dichlor with it. Their theroy is if you add dichlor when you exit the tub, leave the cover open with the jets on for 10 minutes, the product will kill off everything before the next spa use and be just about gone. Dichlor does not last long in hot water, and its 99% pure if you get a quality kind, so according to them between gassing off and being "used" up at your next tub use it is chlorine free.
Every person that goes into the tub brings fecal matter and urea in, as gross as that may seem its just what happens. You are taking a risk without a sanitizer. If a tub is maintained properly, chlorine should have little to no smell, with the natural it should help with any dry skin issues.
Good luck on your quest!
Thanks. A dumb question - what are MPS and dichlor? I see the terms used all the time her, but don't know what they mean. Are these substances I can ask for at a spa store? Are they forms of chlorine?
Gene,
Just a quick vote for BaquaSpa (no, I don't sell it). It has no odor, is easy to use but is supposedly more expensive. Also, some people apparently experience "BaquaSpa cough," a respiratory reaction to it. I've used it for 2 years now. I had some of the brown goo initially a couple of years ago, but proper maintenance made it go away after a few weeks. My wife and I ARE very careful about our water...we always shower before and go in without any clothes (bathing suits still have some soap in them). Nevertheless, to be fair several people talk about BaquaSpa being good for a few years until white mold develops, and I can only maintain the water and hope. All that being said, so far it's been wonderful.
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okay, before other people start reading this list of what i have written. I have never owned a hot tub or a pool before. I don't even own one now, it's arriving soon though. i'm a high school chemistry teacher, so hopefully i'll pick up on the water chemistry quickly, although please be forgiving, i'm only a freshly graduated first-year chem teacher. i hate being confused about things i should understand. and this hot tub chemistry is on my list of things that frustrate me. i realize that perhaps things will be easier when i have a hot tub, have the owner's manual, and have chemical bottles/test strips in front of me. but i like to be prepared. i've read this forum, and have put together a list of things i have learned - OR think that i have learned. some of it is me filling in the blanks from posts that don't specifically say what i've said. i'm wondering if those who know things could read over my list of do's and don'ts and make adjustments to any misconceptions i may have. i'm intending to use bromine because it's a used spa that is coming with all the owners old stuff and he used bromine. some things on my list may be true for bromine but not chlorine, or vice-versa. i appreciate all of your help, i realize this post is long.
DO NOT:
- leave control for air jets in open position while spa is not in use
- use bleach if there is no CYA in water, otherwise it is fine
- dump chemicals in one area, make sure they are spread out in the water
- make fun of someone else for using chlorine or bromine, whichever one you don’t use. Some people think chlorine smells, some think bromine does, but if you are using correctly there should not really be a smell from either. They both are carcinogens, bromine more so, but in the concentrations used in a properly cared for hot tub – probably not a big deal. Studies show men who use hot tubs w/bromine have lower sperm count, but when out of hot tub for a month, sperm count raises. Bromine is known to be less demanding, although using chlorine isn’t really demanding either. You just have to find what works for you.
- Use tub if there is no chlorine or bromine reading
- Shock the hot tub only and expect it to be healthy.
- Use trichlor, or any other made-for-pool chemical, in a hot tub
- Expect all brands of test strips to be the same
- Expect an ozonator, ecopur, or other mineral system to work as a sanitizer.
- Ask questions about spa chemicals on here w/o mentioning how many gallons your spa holds and how often/how many people use it
- Switch from bromine to chlorine without draining the spa
DO: (im not so sure about these)..they’re more like questions?
- check chemical levels (chlorine/bromine, CYA, total alkalinity, pH) weekly?
- Shock the spa after each heavy use and once a week..you can use a non-chlorine shock as long as you have a chlorine/bromine sanitizing system, but don’t just depend on the mps to do the sanitizing. (perhaps you need to shock more often, when using chlorine?)
- Have other chemicals on hand such as defoamer, and a clarifier, enzyme product, calcium up, phosphate remover all of which will not get used as often as the ones cited above.
- Rinse the filter out monthly or more often if heavy use – in some cases by hosing off, in some cases by rinsing in a filter cleanser.
- Invest in a taylor k-2006 test kit or tf100 from tftestkits? These are often more accurate than test strips
- Drain tub every 4 months, or 3 months if heavy user.
- Circulate water when adding chemicals (jets on)
- If you get a rash or have itchy nipples, let chemgeek know because he has some sort of list going.
- Switch from chlorine to bromine without draining the spa
For a 350-450 gallon tub (does this matter?) keep chemicals at the following levels:
pH should be 7.2-7.8
alkalinity should be between 60 – 180
chlorine/bromine should be 3-5 ppm
calcium hardness should be 200-400 ppm
pH should be adjusted last, because the above chemicals all shift ph. If adjusted first, then after all others are fixed, then ph will be off. . (is this true, or did I make it up?)
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again, none of what i said above is fact to my knowledge, i'm just writing all of my (mis)conceptions down in a list so that it can be corrected/amended by those who understand water chemistry -which i feel clueless about. i would hate to be responsible for giving some false information.
thank you!
Not considering switching to BaquaSpa or similar baguanide system? I know that it is often criticized, but if one does it correctly just as you inferred for the Bromine or Chlorine, it is easy and wonderful.
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PrivateShrink,
I don't think the "experts" are just making things up. If you read this thread or this forum I think you will come to the conclusion that Baquacil can have problems in pools. For spas, the water is changed completely but even so there are reports of white water mold and other problems (cloudy water, etc.). Nevertheless, one could use something like Spa System Flush or similar products after every or every other water change to kill any white water mold forming in pipes or other surfaces you can't reach. I can't comment on the concerns about Baquacil directly affecting certain types of spa surfaces as there are fewer direct reports about that, but you've read what people have written.
Since these sorts of things are statistical probabilities and not certainties, you may never experience a problem with Baquacil. This is similar to pool users that have high CYA levels without correspondingly higher FC levels -- they may never see algae because of other factors such as low nitrates or phosphates, but that doesn't disprove the chemical theory of the chlorine/CYA relationship. Using Baquacil with ones eyes open is just that -- not a problem so long as one knows the pros and cons.
Richard
I do appreciate your very good points and even better perspective. I can only hope that I fall into the category of those who never encounter problems, but what I "worry" about are exactly those issues that have been written about. For now, we are very happy with our system, if my plastic corrodes, we all know what the number one suspect will be.
Bye Bye Baqua Spa!
in Hot Tub Water Chemistry
Posted
If you think going in the tub naked with a beautiful woman is too much time/trouble, then I'm available to provide some psychological help (LOL).