ANG

I own a pool route with 150 pools and the only thing I know that works without a doubt is Yellow Treat by United Chemical.

I owned a retail store with the exact same machine and to tell you the I trusted my Taylor kit more than the machine.

More likely the pump housing b4 the seal plate but I still say its the seal...

If your leak is from the bottom then its the seal.

What kind of valves do you have? Is it one 3 way valve or ball valves that control each line seperately?

Sounds to me like you didnt need a pump or motor. If the old motor isnt screaming and sounds normal, you probably just lost prime. There can be a couple of reasons why you lost prime but the easiest way to find an air leak, the reason why a pump loses prime, 1) try and prime the pump. 2)Get close to the suction side of the motor, turn the motor off at the timer and look for spit of water. Water will always find an air leak. It could be around the pump lid, suction male adapter( fitting that goes to the front of the motor), any suction valves, pot plugs, or flange gasket. Ive also seen something as stupid as the skimmer weir door getting stuck and not alowing a water flow. I would suggest trying to find the air leak first especially if it in the valves because you can replace the pump and still have the problem.

Your PH is controlled by the Total alkalinity. If the alkalinity is low it will drag down the PH with it. Try and get the alkalinity to 120ppm and you will see the ph rise with it.

A good 2 part epoxy for pools will work. I've done it countless times. The only problem that arises, is that attaching the vac hose sometimes loosens up the patch and it will need to be applied again.

I hope you don't have a problem with the Jandy because they suck to work on. The motor seal cost is about 5 times the cost of a regular seal and not to mention it has to be basically epoxied in place. Not to mention how much fun it is to take it apart and put back together.

A Hayward 1 hp SuperII would do a good job. Even a StaRite 1 hp Duraglass. The nice thing is both are very easy to work on if a problem arises.

As long as the rest of the pool is solid , its ok to plaster over old finishes. It is very important that it has no hollow spots because it will just pop again.

Unless your CYA or Calcium levels are high, theres no reason to drain and fill the pool.

I have been in the service and retail end for 20 years in Florida and have never seen either system be able to keep up with the demands of the Florida climate. I sold the Natures2 system for a short time and found that they work well in January.... THATS IT. Seriously, between the rainfall and the heat of the day they just are not worth the headaches. Salt systems are the rage for the last couple of years but they also have their own problems because of the climate. You will probably get alot of feedback on how great the salt systems are. Im just not a big fan.

I've done it both ways. Hand laid and used the chop gun. Either way it is labor intensive and a very hard job. What questions do you have.

Hayward Super II are good pumps. Sta Rite Duraglass are ok too. Nice thing about both of them is they are real easy to work on. Either one shouldn't be more than $550-$600.

When it comes to the effectiveness of the filter, they both will filter the water real well. I personally like the Hayward better because the bumping action when you clean the filter actually will get more of the old DE off the fingers, so the filter itself can go longer before having to dismantle it to acid wash. Also, where I live in Florida, the grids last about 5 to 7 years before they need to be repalced. The cost can be a couple hundred bucks.

The only way to fix your problem is to get to the rebar a grind it down. Acid washing won't do anything and it will keep getting worse, eventually bleeding down the side of the wall.

What you probably have is Mustard algae. I'm also in Florida and this is the time of the year when mustard starts to bloom. I know, I have been treating more and more pools because of the season change. Your pool store is right, a perfectly balanced pool can still get algae. The easiest way to get rid of it is to treat the pool with a product like Yellow Treat or Yellow out, anything that is based in Sodium Bromide. Just follow the instructions and you won't have a problem

It dosen't matter what the mud base is. When they mud the pool they will float the pebble tech to the tiles.

Thx for posting and reminding me Im not missing anything... Enjoy!!!!

Saltwater chlorine generators will bring the raise the PH( the reason why the high muriatic acid demand.) Also be careful because you are getting to the bottom of the scale when it comes to the ideal range for the Alkalinity. I also noticed that you said it was your first pool. Is it a new pool? If so is it a concrete pool? If it is, the PH will run on the high side until the finish cures.

Anthony, I own a service route of 150 pools in the Daytona Beach area and unfortunately living in Florida takes a toll on everything more than anywhere else in the country. Your right , from my experience the salt cells generally last around 3 -5 years and cost about $500. They also need to be acid washed every 3 months or so, not to mention having to add more salt and stabalizer to the pool than other parts of the country because we are all year round pools. Alot of the other options for sanatation don't work as well because of the heat. When it comes to the cost for the salt systems its about $1500 to install, $500 in a couple of years for the cell and not to mention the cost of chemicals ie. salt , stabalizer, acid. Alot of people do say that the water does feel better to swim in than chlorine dispensed pools. Bottom line is though, you really won't save much with the salt systems.

The best filters are DE filters. They filter down to about 3 microns. Cartridge filters down to around 20 microns and sand filters much higher(especially when the sand is new). The time to clean a DE filter is about 5 minutes 2 or 3 times a month with a cost of about 10 bucks. The Cartrige filters are cheaper to install, except the newer 4 system setups, which in my opinion arent worth the work. They generally take around a half hour to dismantle clean a reasemble There is also cost of repalcing them in 3 years. And sand filters, in my opinon arent woth it. What you really need to figiure out is how much use the pool will be getting . If you have kids and the pool will be a hangout for everyone in the neighborhood then I suggest a DE filter. If its just for a couple a Hayward C series cartridge filter would do the trick. I own a service route of about 150 pools in Florida and if I cleaned filters 4 times a year I would probably wouldn't stay in business very long.

I'm a fan of Diamond Brite finishes. I have seen pools that are 10 years old and the finish looks like it did the day it was installed. Unfortunately the biggest concern with the Diamond Brite is that whoever does the work has to know what they are doing because of the need to acid wash the surface so the Quartz will be exposed. I have seen rookies wash out the surface when its not done properly.

If your water is still green I would recommend trying any product with at least 96% sodium bromide, ex: Yellow Treat or Yellow Out. Just make sure you follow the instructions and at least double shock the pool after the treatment is finished.