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carlee33

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  1. 99% of spa owners will have no difficulty getting their water into proper balance. But like hot tub users themselves, there's great diversity in water types from region to region, even within communities. a plus certification Municipal water supplies differ from well water. This sometimes leads to difficulty in getting pH and Total Alkalinity (TA) into balance.
  2. Kent's recommended doses tend to be pretty enemic--especially the ones listed for Tech A&B (B-Ionic and Tech A&B are different by only about 3%, so the doses are interchangable). I dose 28ml/day (1 fl oz) for my 37 gallon tank with a medium calcium load (2 medium sized SPS corals). If you go from pretty much zero calcium demand and add a couple frags, I'm not surprised that you noticed a difference! While calcium test kits are always suspect, I believe in this case that there is an increase in calcium demand due to the addition of the new frags. Try upping the dose to something like 15 ml/day and see how it goes.
  3. on 99.9999999% of the heaters in the world you will always get 120V from each leg of the heater to ground. For this reason you NEVER check voltage to gound when dealing with a spa heater, in order to properly check voltage on the heater you need to check between the two terminals of the heater. that is where you will either get 220V or 0, when you see that you get zero you can then move back to check your heating contactors and you pressure switch, see if the contactors are closed and check your pressure switch for continuity while the pump is running (disconnect the wires on the pressure switch). if there is no continuity then you need to replace the pressure switch, if there is continuity then you will more than likely have to replace the heating contactors. --------------------------------------------- cwna certification - mcdst certification - mcse exam
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