StarBrightPools

Update. I went back to the pool October 16,2009 and added 4gallons of chlorine and 1 1/2 orange cups of Alum Sulfate. I also made sure I increased the TA and ph levels so that foaming would not result. I then went to go turn on the pump, and nothing. Find out the starter coil on the motor was bad due to condensation. So I replaced the motor the next day and vacuumed out the pool. Performed a top sweep and pool looks a cloudy blue. Much better now. I did not add a clarifier unfortunately. The water level was low, so I told the homeowner to fill to the proper level and super chlorinate and run the pump for 3 days. I also added 2 cups of Soda Ash because the ph was still 7.0. I will check the results out tomorrow. Also when I tested the chlorine it had 3 FC last Saturday. And I cleaned the filters again. They were green. Thank you all again.

Thank you for the links for the better test kits. I was told that you could dilute the pool water to obtain a more accurate reading of the CYA present. Like a 1:1 ratio of distilled water and pool water. Is that correct? Also I was going to use 2lbs of Calcium Hypo-chlorite because it offers a higher level of available chlorine. But if the pool does indeed have over 10ppm of chlorine, should I not proceed? With anything above that amount, shouldn't it have destroyed any traces of green algae? Also if the test for ammonia does show it is present; how do I proceed? If none is present, what is the next step? You said it takes at least 8 times the ammonia amount as chlorine. Did you mean it takes 8 times the chlorine amount? I also realize that the Cal Hypo will increase total hardness. Would you happen to know by how much? I also did not know that bacteria could convert CYA (Cyanuric Acid) into ammonia. I was told the only way to dispose of CYA is to drain the pool partially and add fresh water. I also realize that there could be a high CYA readomg even if you were to drain the whole pool and refill with fresh water. Which would not be recommend due to the possibility of the pool to become dislodged from the ground. I will be purchasing the OTO test kit and an ammonia tester tomorrow. Thank you very much.

Hello Everyone! I just joined today and have some concerns about a green pool. Yesterday Oct, 10 2009 I checked out a customers green pool. I am still very new at this, so please bare with me. The chlorine level was 0, ph 8.0, TA:90;Calcium 170; and cya 60ppm. This was using the Taylor Complete DPD Test Kit K-2005. First I cleaned the filters, and then I brushed the walls and steps. I then proceed to add 8gallons of chlorine(Probably too much), 1g of Muriatic acid(Definitely Too Much), and 8ozs of dropout(recommends 4oz per 10,000g). The pool is approximately 20,000g. I then let the 3/4hp pump circulate the water for 18hours. I went back today and tested the water. There is no FC and the ph is 7.0. The water is not as green but still present. So does that mean that the algae consumed the 8gallons of chlorine with a 10% chlorine percentage? Based on the size of the pool, should I add 3 more gallons to help kill the rest of the algae, and have it circulate for only 7hours based on Pentairs Energy website? And if and when I add more chlorine and cycle the pump again, will the dropout that is in the pool do its job after another cycle? Thank you for any insight on this.