Tadaia

Hello Gman and thanks very much for your response. My results were as follows: CH = 150 TA = 90 pH = very high! I've adjusted to acceptable level with pH down and will monitor. CYA = ?? FC = 3.8 I also recently ordered some Freshwater Salt Water Test Strips, which came in the mail today. Per the strips my salt level is very high, however the Ace system reads low (really wondering if its more trouble than its worth). I'm going to drain 30% of the water today to get that level down. I've called the local dealer once for advice and a second time for a callout but I've not received a callback. :-( I'll try one more cleaning then call the manufacturer again to see if my warranty is still good.

I recently refilled my 2010 HS Vanguard and apparently screwed up big time because despite several cell cleanings initially I could not get the Ace system working properly. I blame myself because I did not wait for the temp to rise properly before adding salt. As well... though I measured the hardness (good) and added the "usual" amounts of Alkaline and ph chems I did not check/measure them carefully BEFORE adding salt. Finally after a couple of days of measuring and tweaking, the Ace system appears to be working without call for service indication. I just received my Taylor K2006 tester on recommendation from pros here, but after going thru the booklet I'm more confused than when I started. I believe I can follow directions on doing the actual tests, but I need to know simply this... if water, salt and chems are already in the spa, in what order should I test and make adjustments (i.e. 1. Hardness, 2. Alkalinity, 3. PH, 4. Chlorine, etc)? Thanks for any assistance

Randy The instructions do not specifically say I should insert the hose in that inlet but I am getting some minor "surging" from the jets since refill. It's raining down my way today so I'll likely pursue this (steps 2 & 3) tomorrow just to be sure there's no issues there. Peteyboy hi There appears to be a good flow of bubbles. I'm trying to avoid the dealer if its something simple. They are the only one in the area and I get angry and frustrated everytime I have to deal with them. Their follow-up (and attitude) is not the best when I've had an issue or question. They called me almost weekly to encourage me to purchase a salt-water system. I finally agreed, paid for it and was given a delivery date. As with the hottub order itself it is now well late. They haven't bothered to update me and when I call them to inquire about it they act as if I owe THEM something. Of course, push comes to shove I will call them if necessary. Spa God The tub does seem to stop at 104, or perhaps that's just where I happened to have caught it each time. I've never seen an overheat message and still plan to buy a duckie thermostat thingy by tomorrow to be sure. I'll pull out the board diagram today and try to find the sensor. I should have a ohmmeter around here somewhere and will measure tomorrow. Also where can I find this serial number?

Hi Randy An airpocket sounds reasonable. I filled the tub by putting the hose and attached Freshstart prefilter in the filter compartment. All filters were in place with caps ON. The "Ready" light works as yours, turning on within +2F of the setting but the heater doesn't shut off. Mine shows the actual temp most always unless I'm entering another command. Steps 2 and 3 after refilling might have been where I went wrong... 2. After the spa has been filled with water and the equipment compartment door is secured, power must be applied to the spa. • 230 volt models: Open the door of the electrical subpanel, if your spa is a Vanguard or Sovereign model reset the 20 amp GFCI breaker first and verify the system is primed (see step 3), then reset the 30 amp breaker. If your spa is a Vista, Grandee, Envoy or Aria model reset the 30 amp GFCI breaker first, verify the system is primed, then reset the 20 amp breaker. Close and secure the subpanel door. 3. The jet pump, heating system, and all internal plumbing will achieve a partial prime as the spa is filled. To check the operation of the jet system and to purge any remaining air from the heating system, push the JETS hardbutton button once then push the JET MAX soft button to make both jet pumps run on high speed for one minute. Once the jet system is fully operational (as indicated by strong, non-surging jets), priming of the spa is complete, press the ALL OFF soft button to shut the jets off. Weak or surging jets are an indication of a low water level condition or clogged filter cartridges. MPORTANT: Be sure the air control valves (see illustration in Comfort Control® system section) are open by turning each one clockwise and checking to see that the SmartJet® lever is pointing to the 3 o’clock position (see illustration in SmartJet system section). I'll take another look tomorrow and go through the routine post refill once more to see if that clears the problem. Thanks... I think you're on to something!

Hi Dan I'll find a thermometer to check but I actually got in yesterday to check for the possibility of that but I ended up jumping out it was so hot... and reading 104 deg. As well when I add fresh water the temp seems to drop and gauge appropriately. It's as if whatever is supposed to shut off the heater when it reaches the set temp is not working. It just keeps on a-heatin'.

Ok... I ran fresh cool water in the tub and the temp dropped down to 93 deg. I then set it for 95 deg to see what would happen. When I went back out the water had heated to 100 degs and rising. Is there anything else that I can try? The ready light seems to work properly in that it doesn't blink (error) and when I set the temp within 2 degs it will turn on. The heater just seems to never turn off.

Hey Hotubdan Thanks for your response! It is the latest model Vanguard. I'll set it to 96 degs, give that a try and post the result later. I will say however that before the refill my water temp was always fairly consistent with my setting, deviating at most only +1 deg.

I recently bought a Hot Spring Vanguard and performed my first water change per manual instructions. I 'believe' the indicators are as they should be on the panel however whenever I set the temp to 98 and leave the tub overnight I return to find the temperature anywhere between 100-104 deg. It's not so hot outside here such that the outside environment would heat the water so are there any steps that I can take to fix without having to call the local dealer (poor support)? I've tried a 30sec reset of the breakers but still getting the same problem. thanks!

I am looking at this spa too. Could you please tell me what you ending up paying for your spa. I am in sticker shock right now and want to make sure I'm not being taken. Thanks. Sorry just seeing this clanofyettys... I paid about $8500 after tax

Thanks Peteyboy... I'll reluctantly call the dealer tomorrow to inquire about replacement of remote. If I'd thought longer and better of it at the time I'd simply get the Balboa Dolphin remote and buy my own waterproof speakers. I've not gained much with this arrangement but wireless icast... and I didn't need that as I can run speaker wiring under the deck from the basement. The biggest advantage might've been the IQ2020 remote to operate both the tub and entertainment equipment. Since that seems to be the only thing that DOESN'T work it was a waste of money. Lesson learned

By the way I can hear audio through the speakers via the iCast system.

Well I received my 8 port card and installed. I have two questions/concerns however for anyone that can assist. Should I see a light on the Flatpack Amp? I see one on the power supply. The remote will not sync with it's module. Is there a sync command to be used with the 2009 Hot Spring Vanguard?

Hi Peteyboy Thanks for the advice! I'll double check that power supply. I discovered that both sets of power terminals were already used on the control board when originally installed. So I will need an extra set of Y adapters to connect both the flatpack pwr sply and the icast system. I'm hoping Radio Shack carries them. I expect to receive the hub next week. I'll post here when install is complete.

Roger I agree with part of your post in that not all are interested in buying a Costco Hot tub and want more quality, however I disagree that most want to "dance" the dance with dealers any more than they want to deal with a shifty used car dealer. I lived in southern Europe for several years and as an American one of the things you had to deal with was the bartering culture in the marketplace. My personal experience is that either out of habit or our own culture, most Americans are not used to this and don't care for it. We want a fair price up front, especially when it comes to high dollar luxuries that we don't purchase often. Some are savvy enough to surf the web to get an idea of pricing or will visit several dealers and make detailed comparisons, but all of it makes one very nervous and at times frustrated. It hardly helps when you're dealing with a slick character or an arrogant salesperson that acts like you owe him something rather than making an honest effort to earn your trust and business in a way that's beneficial to all concerned. I think that Reeffreak hit it dead on... this isn't food or a utility... no one NEEDS a hot tub, particularly in this economy. And even if they really want one, they can and should look for the best deal and service they can find from someone that appreciates their business, before during and after the fact. We all learn as we go along. I would imagine the best dealers make a habit of building that reputation and maintaining it.

I called Watkins and have an answer in case of the remote possibility that someone has the same issue. The only incompatibility between the 2009 HS control board and the older version spAudiocast system is the 8 port hub that comes in the iCast system packaging. The old green board (1117701) is not compatible. You'll need to purchase the new blue board (74150). All else is fine.