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I'm getting ready to winterize my pool, which includes lowering the water level several inches. It usually takes about an hour and a half to perform that task. To save time on the overall closing process this year, I'd like to remove and clean my Jandy CV-460 filter cartridges while draining water from the pool. Is it safe to pump water through the filter if there are no cartridges present?

Thanks for the information and advice. I think I'll rinse the cartridges with a garden hose and nozzle, and then soak them overnight when the pump is idle. It would be nice to have a spare set of cartridges, but there are four of them and they cost about $80 each. I sure hope the ones I've got last a while.

I would like to use a pressure washer to clean the cartridges of my Jandy CV460 filter. Does anyone know what a safe maximum pressure would be to use on these cartridges? I inquired thia of Jandy and was told that a "standard" pressure washer should be fine. If you've ever looked at pressure washers, you know that there is no "standard" size or performance.

If my pool water is in good balance and my salt water generator (SWG) maintains a proper FC level, is there a need to shock the pool on a regular basis or at all? I've been advised to add granular shock or run the SWG in boost mode once a week and especially after a heavy bather load. Also, does running a water feature (24" Sheer Descent) have an effect on the water chemistry? I'm wondering if the water aeration caused by the waterfall does anyting to the PH or any other component.

Thinking ahead to spring... For various reasons, we just closed and winterized our 16x32 gunite pool on January 25. We'll probably open it the middle of April or first of May. Even with the short closing timeframe, I know our mesh safety cover will let dirt and sediment through that will settle on the pool bottom. When we open the pool, I'd like to vacuum to waste all or most of the crud sitting on the bottom. I also know that when we start circulating the water, much of the settled dirt will get stirred up. Shy of purchasing or renting a portable pool vacuum, what is the best way to remove the dirt and sediment without stirring it up and running it through the filter?

Actually, the quote for the 160 lb cover was from Loop-Loc. After receiving their email quote I called and just asked them the weight of their solid cover. I was told that they only weigh the covers right before they ship them and that there is not any way for them to determine the weight prior to shipping. That leads me to believe the weight I was quoted is the shipping weight. I asked my friend to double check the brand of her cover. She did, and it turns out that hers is actually an Anchor. I'm now convinced that I won't know how much a cover for my pool is going to weigh until I actually purchase and receive one. I'm going to assume that it will be in the neighborhood of around 100 lbs, which is acceptable. My wife and I should be able to handle that weight just fine.

In an attempt to get an accurate approximate weight for a solid safety cover, I sent emails to six different cover companies. Without naming names, here are the esitmates I received: 90 lbs 100-120 lbs 100 lbs 90 lbs 125 lbs 160 lbs Ironically, the estimate from the company that we're most interested in is the 160 lb one. And they advertise that their solid safety cover is 33% lighter than that of other companies. I still can't believe that their's could be 25-44% heavier than the others.

Well, after experiencing two different incidences of our pool freezing over, we've decided to winterize and cover it for the remainder of the winter. We're in the process of getting estimates for solid safety covers, and as soon as the current layer of ice melts, I'm going to lower the water level to 2-3 inches below the tile/skimmer. That will put the water level at 8-9 inches above the returns and light. However, it will only be about 2-3 inches above the Polaris cleaner port. Therefore, I'm going to plug that port in case the pool freezes more that a couple of inches thick. Would it be best to plug that port with a rubber compression plug or with a threaded PVC plug? Also, how much insulation, if any, will a solid safety cover provide in minimizing the freezing of the pool water?

We've been looking at safety covers for our 16x32 kidney shaped gunite pool. We'd prefer a solid cover for the total protection it provides. However, my regular pool guy only deals with Anchor covers. I called Anchor directly and was told that their solid cover for my size pool would weigh about 200 lbs. A friend of mine with a similarly sized pool got a solid Loop-Loc cover. She said they store it in the 3'x4' box it came in and it's light enough for her to lift. Is there really that big of a difference in weight between these two covers? Are other brands of solid covers really heavy also, or is it just the Anchor brand?

Thanks for the suggestions. Our plan, at least for the rest of this winter, is to leave the equipment connected and running whether we decide to cover the pool or not. The filter pump is programmed to run daily to keep the water filtered. It runs even more so as it regularly goes into freeze protection. The Polaris is also programmed to run on a regular basis to keep the pool swept. We have been, and will continue to monitor the chemical content of the pool water throughout the winter. We have already experienced a power outage. On Christmas eve we had blizzard conditions and the power went off for about three hours. The temperature outside was about 25 degrees at the time. After about ten minutes, I decided not to wait on the power to return, so I went outside, shut off all of the breakers to the equipment and pulled all of the drain plugs. The pool froze over that night and the next, which had me worrying about the water line tile cracking. On Saturday, it warmed enough that I was able to replace all of the plugs, prime the filter pump and get things running again. The ice in the pool quickly melted when the water began to move again. Ironically, just three days before the power went out, we did something we had talked about doing even before we got a pool. We contracted to have a standby generator installed. The model we purchased had to be ordered, so it wasn't immediately available to be installed in time to prevent the power outage. We were advised not to close the pool this winter since the plaster is so fresh. We'll see how the rest of the winter goes and then evaluate whether or not we'll actually close pool down next winter. We haven't experienced a close/reopen process yet, so we're not sure if that will be more of a pain than dealing with and worrying about freezing conditions.

So basically, there isn't really a minimum water level requirement, other than the cover should not be touching the water. If that's the case, then you've answered my question. Thank you. FYI...The link below shows the "typical" weather for my location, although it already seems to be colder than usual: http://www.accuweather.com/us/ok/broken-ar...=0&zipchg=1

Our inground gunite pool in NE Oklahoma was just finished in early November. Like most pool owners in our area, we are leaving our pool open for the winter. We're not actually swimming in it, we're just not going to winterize it. This was recommended since the white plaster finish is so new. Anyway, for safety, our pool guy recommended that we get a safety cover for the winter. He said he has customers who do this, and even has one who leaves their Polaris pool cleaner connected and running on a daily basis beneath the cover. His recommendation is a Loop Loc mesh cover. I read Loop Loc's FAQ's and it says that the water level should be 15"-18" below the top of the pool. That would put it below the level of our skimmer opening and below the tile line, which would not be good for the curing of the new plaster. What would be the cons of leaving the water at normal level, other than if someone ventured onto the cover, they would get wetter that if the water level was lower?