Aussie Pool Guy

the kit will work however i would be getting onto draining and repairing asap!! in regards to the fibreglass im assuming its a zodiac polaris if so use a suction cleaner and it will be just as effective! the X7 is a new model out and will do just as good of a job as the polaris.

No offense but when splashing out on a pool that is $19,500 you might as well pay the 700 for dewatering!! im sure there are other companies out there that will be competative.... try bartering them down, its not as difficult as you think!

A 1 to 13 mix of crusher dust or regular quarry sand and cement is most certainly the way to go no matter the terrain. this allows a secure backfill and provides easy excavation for future repairs.

Salt wtaer generator makes chlorine out of salt water, so it's exactly the same as bleach. try the salt water chlorinator post in fibreglass pools richard explained it well

I expect they'll turn it on it's side. It'll only be ~8 1/2 feet wide. If they turn it on it's side as you suggest, it would be 18 ft tall. Most bridges are less than 14 feet high. That won't work. THEY WILL TRANSFER IT AS AN OVERSIZE LOAD WITH ESCORTS ON FRONT AND BACK. ARE YOU AN IDIOT OR WHAT, CLANCY IS RIGHT YOU CANNOT FIT A POOL 18 FEET WIDE INTO MASSACHUSETTS UNLESS YOU DO IT ILLEGALLY. I DON'T CARE IF YOU HAVE 20 ESCORTS, TOO WIDE IS TOO WIDE. THIS IS FURTHER PROOF OF HOW WATERWORLD IS DOING WHATEVER IT TAKES TO SELL A POOL, EVEN IF THAT MEANS VIOLATING DOT RULES AND PLACING THE TRAVELING PUBLIC AT RISK. Ease up he was just suggesting how they would possibly do it?? perhaps they have an alternate route in which they pass under no bridges unless they are tall enough to do so. it is quite easy to load up a pool take the measurements to the government in charge (depending on the state obviously) compromising a route in which the pool can and will be transported. im sure no company would transport something that big illegelly!

High levels of calcium will be one of the main reasons for your fibreglass to be coming away as well as the sulfuric acid you are mixing into your water try a 13 to 1 mix of hydrochloric acid to water and only add 600ml (apologies for the metric units) a week that will lower both calcium hardness and ph and hopefully balance it. One would ask why you are using a chlorine free shock and superchlorinating it?

I have been installing fiberglass pools for 25 years. In order to give you a decent recommendation on who to choose for a manufacturer it all depends on what area you live in. I live in northern NJ. If you have any recommendations I would greatly appreciate it. Also, I am thinking of going "heat pump" rather then a gas heater. Do you recommend any manufacturer over another? Oh and as long as were talking pools - how about the salt water filters? The salt water chlorine generators work very well. The only down side to them is that once the water temperature gets below about 58 degrees they don't work. Heat pumps work out OK as long as you have a decent amount of humidity in the air. They are more expensive up front and I don't believe that they are as energy efficient as the natural gas or propane heaters. In regards to recommendations for manufacturers in your area:Aloha, Viking, Leisure, San Juan, CPC, and Waterworld are among the major manufacturers of quality fiberglass swimming pools in this country. Every one of them will tell you why their pool is better than others and how their gel coat, ultra granicote ceramic core etc. etc. is by far superior to anything else on the market. The truth of it is that they are all good quality products but the most important key to all is to have the right person install your pool. If the pool is not leveled correctly or back filled properly your going to have trouble. The manufacturer may say they warranty the pool for lifetime or for 25 years but the warranty only covers defects due to manufacturing and there is really no warranty on the installation of the shell. So a fiberglass pool is only as good as the person installing the pool. Don't get in a rush to make a decision, it's still a little cold in your part of the country. Ask every salesman that comes to your house to provide you with at least 10 local references from customers they built pools for during the last year. Call the people, go see their pools and get a feel for how they were treated and if they were happy with the final result. Take a good look at the person that comes out to sell you the pool. If you are real lucky the same guy that sells you the pool is the same guy that's going to put the pool in for you and he knows what he is talking about and gives you straight answers to your questions. Once again the most important thing that you can do to try and make the right decision is to talk to people that recently had these companies build their pool. I wish I would've read your post BEFORE I hired the hack that installed my San Juan pool. It's 1 1/2" off level and that irritates the heck out of me. He said he'd shoot a level on it before he back filled it. Apparently not. In the 'beach entry area" he didn't sufficiently back fill it and it sounds and feels hollow when you step into the pool. There's no backfill under it. Another irritation. THEN, the .5" distance between the bottom of the bullnose coping and the top of the tile line, he squirted grey silicone sealer. It's peeling off now. VERY ametuerish. I could've done a better job. I should've taken his suggestion that I do it myself when he suggessted it. Apparently he knew that this was his first pool....or so it seemed. I don't know what you could have done to cause the pool to fade. Is it white or blue? I am not making excuses for your installer but there are some things that you need to understand about leveling a fiberglass pool. The fiberglass lip on the pool is not even close to being level in most cases, and from an installer viewpoint there are some things that we can't fix. There may be 1 or 2 areas in the pool that the mold could be off by a half inch or so, but the pool should not be out of level from end to end or side to side. Your beach entry may sound hollow but it may not actually be hollow. In most cases that beach entry area is higher where it meets the pool than it is where it meets the outside lip of the pool. In other words it is very difficult to get sand to wash uphill in a case like that. All the steps in a fiberglass pool are reinforced for extra protection. Once again, I am not doubting your opinion on the hollowness of your beach entry. Im not sure why the mould would differenciate any of the pool levels the mould should not have an effect on this at all, sometimes the pool installers get slack and sometimes they just simply do not kno what they are doing! However as a customer it is always best to be on site on the day of installation to ensure the installer has taken the right datum point and ensure the pool is level. as for the beach entry, there is no area on a pool that is impossible to backfill and that would be a case of your installer either not knowing what he is doing or couldnt be bothered doing the right thing. be sure to check your main drain valve regularly and if you see any movement contact your installer as incorrect levels can lead to: A) twisting and cracking leaking and underfilling C) pools lifting and moving

1) The life of the SWG cell depends on usage and the manufacturer, but generally speaking you should get at least 3 years of life from the cell and up to 5 years with many of the better units today, especially if you get a somewhat oversized cell for your pool so that the on-time can be reduced (longer on-times reduce cell life). SWG systems aren't a future system; they are very common today with nearly 85% of all new in-ground pool installations in many areas having an SWG. 2) Yes, the chlorine it produces is the same as from other products -- closest to that of bleach or chlorinating liquid as it does not increase Calcium Hardness nor Cyanuric Acid (CYA). At the same Free Chlorine (FC) level, it is at least as effective as manually dosed chlorine products and generally one can use a somewhat lower FC with the same effects (i.e. prevention of algae growth). 3) There is virtually no chance of electric shock from the SWG itself since it is low voltage and isolated, but the increased salt level in the pool (independent of whether or not you have an SWG or whether it is turned on) does increase the conductivity of the water so any stray voltages around the pool could lead to a greater chance of feeling electricity. A properly grounded pool installation should not have this problem, but this has to do with the construction of your pool and not with the addition of the SWG. Some jurisdictions or older pools may not have grids in the cement around your pool so may not prevent stray voltages from other sources (such as power distribution systems). The increased salt level in the pool required for use of an SWG could cause problems if your coping is made of a soft or absorbent stone (this can be mitigated by sealant) or if you have metal (iron) around your pool that is not resistant to corrosion (such as diving boards or patio furniture). Stainless steel is generally OK, but copper heat exchangers in gas heaters may be more sensitive compared to newer titanium or cupro-nickel alloys. Richard