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Oxy-brite By Aquachlor.


Lynn

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I have been recommended this product for use with a cd ozone unit. They recommend about 10gms every two days. And to use no other chemicals. The active ingreditent of this product is Potassium Peroxymonosulphate. Is this peroxide?

My biggest problem is how to use the Ozone unit with the minimum of chemicals and this is what has been recommended. Has anyone else used this?, what were the results?, is the recommended dosage correct for 1500 ltrs of water? A search of the site did not bring up this product. It is made in Australia by Water Co Ltd.

I have only had my spa for a few months and I have been logging on to your forum as a guest. I have had so many of the problems everyone else has had and you have answered all my queries. THANKS

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I have been recommended this product for use with a cd ozone unit. They recommend about 10gms every two days. And to use no other chemicals. The active ingreditent of this product is Potassium Peroxymonosulphate. Is this peroxide?

My biggest problem is how to use the Ozone unit with the minimum of chemicals and this is what has been recommended. Has anyone else used this?, what were the results?, is the recommended dosage correct for 1500 ltrs of water? A search of the site did not bring up this product. It is made in Australia by Water Co Ltd.

I have only had my spa for a few months and I have been logging on to your forum as a guest. I have had so many of the problems everyone else has had and you have answered all my queries. THANKS

That chemical is a non chlorine shock. If you do as they are recommending you will eventually have some problems. For one thing Potassium Peroxymonosulphate is not a sanitizer, it is a shock to burn off chloramines , persperation, cosmetics, and body oils. With their recommendation the only sanitizer that you will have being introduced is the ozone gas. Ozone is great at killing bacteria but one of its shortcomings is that it is a gas so it is only effective while it is in the water. Since it is a gas it will dissipate as soon as it leaves the return jet in the spa and rises up out of the water. Ozone works great but you will still need some type of sanitizer such as chlorine or bromine. The nice thing with a ozonator you can maintain your sanitizer levels at lower levels so that you dont get the strong chemical odors and the drying effect on your skin when you get out.

The next thing to consider is your sanitizer has nothing to do with your Ph or total alkalinity and both of these things are important to protect your spa equipment. Be careful of instructions that make it sound to easy as we see a lot of customers that end up with rashes and infections due to lack of sanitizer because of such instructions.

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I should have also added that I also maintain the recommended ph and ta.

If the ozone is running on a 24 hour pump and is working constantly, is that enough sanitation with the oxy-brite. If not, what should I also be adding.

Hi Lynn

Oxy Brite is only a non chlorine shock and as such will not do anything unless you have a Bromide bank in your tub that the oxy brite can activate to produce Bromine. I too have a hot tub with a CD ozonator and a 24 hour hush pump that runs my ozone 24 hours. Simply ozone is more of an oxidizer than a sanitizer, that is why you must keep a minimum Bromine/Chlorine level of 1-2 PPM.

If you only rely only on your ozonator, you have to remember that only the water that is running through the ozonator is being treated not the entire tub. When you enter the tub you are bringing bacteria in that affects the whole tub, your ozonator will not be able to keep up. the ozonator will allow you too not have to worry about giving the tub a super shock to rid it of Chloramines and odors, but cannot be trusted as a sanitizer alone.

I have a Beachcomber 750 which is a 1500 litre tub, what i did is i bought a Bromine tablet dispenser and i leave the floater in the tub all the time, with the dial set at 2.5. This gives me a constant Bromine level of 1.5 PPM, so i always know the water is clean. You will need to add some Sodium Bromide at start up, then after each time you use the tub, throw 1 teaspoon of Oxy Brite in to kill any bacteria that you introduced in the tub. This will raise you Bromine levels and kill everything, then your levels will go back down to the minimum, where your floater will keep the level.

This allows you too keep a safe tub with minimal chemical use, then once a week during your weekly maintenance you will add a couple of tablets to your floater and thats it for sanitizer. You don't want to get hot tub Folliculitis from not enough sanitizer, trust me its not pleasant.

He are some levels you want to strive for:

Bromine/Chlorine: 1-2PPM with an ozonator

T.A.: 100-120

P.H. 7.4-7.6

Calcium Hardness 150-250

Change water when TDS reaches 1500

Go to this website he answers every possible question you could have about water chemistry.

http://www.askalanaquestion.com/ozonators1.htm

Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Lynn

Oxy Brite is only a non chlorine shock and as such will not do anything unless you have a Bromide bank in your tub that the oxy brite can activate to produce Bromine. I too have a hot tub with a CD ozonator and a 24 hour hush pump that runs my ozone 24 hours. Simply ozone is more of an oxidizer than a sanitizer, that is why you must keep a minimum Bromine/Chlorine level of 1-2 PPM.

If you only rely only on your ozonator, you have to remember that only the water that is running through the ozonator is being treated not the entire tub. When you enter the tub you are bringing bacteria in that affects the whole tub, your ozonator will not be able to keep up. the ozonator will allow you too not have to worry about giving the tub a super shock to rid it of Chloramines and odors, but cannot be trusted as a sanitizer alone.

I have a Beachcomber 750 which is a 1500 litre tub, what i did is i bought a Bromine tablet dispenser and i leave the floater in the tub all the time, with the dial set at 2.5. This gives me a constant Bromine level of 1.5 PPM, so i always know the water is clean. You will need to add some Sodium Bromide at start up, then after each time you use the tub, throw 1 teaspoon of Oxy Brite in to kill any bacteria that you introduced in the tub. This will raise you Bromine levels and kill everything, then your levels will go back down to the minimum, where your floater will keep the level.

This allows you too keep a safe tub with minimal chemical use, then once a week during your weekly maintenance you will add a couple of tablets to your floater and thats it for sanitizer. You don't want to get hot tub Folliculitis from not enough sanitizer, trust me its not pleasant.

He are some levels you want to strive for:

Bromine/Chlorine: 1-2PPM with an ozonator

T.A.: 100-120

P.H. 7.4-7.6

Calcium Hardness 150-250

Change water when TDS reaches 1500

Go to this website he answers every possible question you could have about water chemistry.

http://www.askalanaquestion.com/ozonators1.htm

Chris

No need for Calcium ever unless it is cement. You might as well use HTH in your spa until you change the water. What is TDS? Total disolved solutions? Thats interesting as I never heard of TDS

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No need for Calcium ever unless it is cement. You might as well use HTH in your spa until you change the water. What is TDS? Total disolved solutions? Thats interesting as I never heard of TDS

Total disolved solids. That is the number that you need to pay attention to as it goes up your water will become harder to maintain and at a certain level you want to drain the pool or spa. We recomend draining in our area at 2100 ppm.

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Total disolved solids. That is the number that you need to pay attention to as it goes up your water will become harder to maintain and at a certain level you want to drain the pool or spa. We recomend draining in our area at 2100 ppm.

Or if you are using a stabalized based chlorine you should do a water exchange at 100ppm.

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You would drain the spa if the TDS is at 100 ppm? In most areas in the southwest you couldnt fill your spa because tap water is 300ppm right out of the tap.

Total disolves solution is 2000ppm and Cynaric acid or stabalized granules @ 100ppm. Therefor 300ppm is only a fraction of what the diminishing return is, exactly 1/71/2

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Total disolves solution is 2000ppm and Cynaric acid or stabalized granules @ 100ppm. Therefor 300ppm is only a fraction of what the diminishing return is, exactly 1/71/2

WHAT? :blink:

Total disolves solution is 2000ppm and Cynaric acid or stabalized granules @ 100ppm. Therefor 300ppm is only a fraction of what the diminishing return is, exactly 1/71/2

Where did you get your water chemistry training? Your statement does not make a bit of sense. :blink:

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