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Coleman/Maaxspas 107 heater issues


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I have the spa listed in the title. It's direct wired 240V with the appropriate disconnect.

Filter is new and water is maintained correctly and replaced every 90 days.

It has a Balboa 137 spa pack with 5.5 Kw 240v heater. No error codes and everything works as intended except for the heater which stopped working a couple of days ago.

I turned it up and went to get I it a few hours after and the temp was still 35C/96F.

The heater light is displayed on the top side controller pad. I made sure I had turned it up correctly and sure enough it was set at 38C/101F.

I checked for power at the posts on the heater and got 115v at both and 0 ohms when I tested for continuity.

I'm confused at why the heater light is on and why it's not heating if there's power to the heater and why it's not throwing a code.

Hopefully someone's got the answer.

Thanks for reading 

Sorry for the duplicate post . I accidentally posted this in the wrong forum originally. 

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Is the spa wired 120V or 240V? If 240V do you get 240V at the 2 heater terminals? Post photos of the circuit board and schematic on the inside cover.

Also make sure the spa is set to Std (Standard) mode and not set in ECN (Economy) or SLP (sleep) modes

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Upon closer inspection, I discovered a burnt jumper wire on one of the relays. And since the relays are soldered and not bolted to the board, I'm assuming the board is fried. 

That's unfortunate due to the cost of a replacement. Yikes!

Is there a way to find out if there's another board that will replace it that doesn't cost so much?

The board is made by Balboa and the label identifies it as 137 MAAX SUV M7 52532-02.

If you still want me to post pics I will. 

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If it's a relay, relays can be sourced from Amazon and replaced. If you can't solder, you should be able to find an electronics guy that can. I would replace them all while it's being done. New relays will refresh the board and in the overall scheme of things, are not expensive.

If it's a trace on the board, that can be repaired with a piece of wire, simply jump between solid terminals that bridge the break.

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24 minutes ago, cranbiz said:

If it's a relay, relays can be sourced from Amazon and replaced. If you can't solder, you should be able to find an electronics guy that can. I would replace them all while it's being done. New relays will refresh the board and in the overall scheme of things, are not expensive.

If it's a trace on the board, that can be repaired with a piece of wire, simply jump between solid terminals that bridge the break.

There isn't any burn marks on the board, just on the jumper connector and the plastic jacket of that wire is melted a bit. 

How can I identify the relay?

Thanks for your reply! 

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33 minutes ago, cranbiz said:

If it's a relay, relays can be sourced from Amazon and replaced. If you can't solder, you should be able to find an electronics guy that can. I would replace them all while it's being done. New relays will refresh the board and in the overall scheme of things, are not expensive.

If it's a trace on the board, that can be repaired with a piece of wire, simply jump between solid terminals that bridge the break.

There isn't any burn marks on the board, just on the jumper connector and the plastic jacket of that wire is melted a bit. 

How can I identify the relay?

Thanks for your reply! 

20240328_141457.jpg

20240328_141419.jpg

20240328_141354.jpg

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I deleted  the other post .

Yes I did get 240 across both posts

 

.

If you look at the 2nd pic below you can see burn marks on the jumper connector .

What is that component? Relay? I did the ohms test as directed and got 11 ohms from the disconnected heater.

At this point, I'm feeling like it's the board. What I don't understand is the pumps worked and there was good flow, the heater light was illuminated, and there were no error codes., it just wasn't heating. 

What is the component in the 2nd pic with the burn mark n the jumper connector?

I thought it was a relay but the relays are above that component at the top of the board if I'm not mistaken.

Not looking forward to dropping $400 on a board for a 20 yr old tub. 

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Here would be the test to find the bad relay. (After you replace burnt black wire connecting the 2 relays) With power to the board and heat light solid place one probe on the left coper heater relay and the other on the open tab on the top black relay... do you get 240? next test at where the black wire connects to the top relay... do you get 240? next test where the black wire connects to the bottom relay.. do you get 240? then test the open tab on the bottom relay... do you get 240V. Follow the power and where it ends is where the bad relay is.

You can do all that but in reality I would be replacing both of the relays.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiQBBHtejMA&t=294s

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1 hour ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Here would be the test to find the bad relay. (After you replace burnt black wire connecting the 2 relays) With power to the board and heat light solid place one probe on the left coper heater relay and the other on the open tab on the top black relay... do you get 240? next test at where the black wire connects to the top relay... do you get 240? next test where the black wire connects to the bottom relay.. do you get 240? then test the open tab on the bottom relay... do you get 240V. Follow the power and where it ends is where the bad relay is.

You can do all that but in reality I would be replacing both of the relays.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiQBBHtejMA&t=294s

Thanks for hanging in there with me.

According to the Spa Guy , that bypass he demonstrates in the video works on several Balboa boards but he doesn't include the 100 series in his list .

My board doesn't have all the tabs he points out as places to attach a jumper to, so I don't know how to go about jumping the areas without something to attach to.

I'll continue looking to see what I come up with and report back. I have to work today so it won't be till later this afternoon. 

Thanks again. 

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After following the steps shown in the video linked above, I reinstalled the board and filled it up.

As soon as I turned the breaker on, there was a loud pop and the top heater relay exploded.i had jumped power from the board to it but didn't use its line out tab to jump to the lower relay due to the burned wire attached to that lug.. instead, I jumped the lower relay by attaching a jumper wire from the board to the line in tab of the relay. 

Apparently the board didn't like this configuration . I pulled the jumper wires and attempted to turn it on but the breaker trips immediately 

Sat this point I'm convinced the board is fried.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and advice. I truly appreciate it. 

I will check back in after I get the new board. I just hope I can find a board that's compatible that doesn't cost as much as the OEM board .

 

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4 hours ago, Spa Board Doctor said:

Hello,

This is a common problem and the board can be repaired.  You might want to consider having it repaired and keeping it as a spare.

Spa Board Doctor

I have a client who's an electrical engineer and I asked him if he was interested in replacing the relays to which he took me to his garage and showed me his soldering station!

So, that was a yes. Lol.

I'm ordering the relays today and will report back with the results of the board once repaired. 

Fingers crossed!

Thanks.

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On 4/11/2024 at 1:47 PM, radetailer said:

I have a client who's an electrical engineer and I asked him if he was interested in replacing the relays to which he took me to his garage and showed me his soldering station!

So, that was a yes. Lol.

I'm ordering the relays today and will report back with the results of the board once repaired. 

Fingers crossed!

Thanks.

There isn't any numbers or letters that identify the relays whatsoever. The ones in question are the 2 directly left of the transformer in the pictures above. The diagram on the inside front panel of the box just shows 240v on each one.how can I identify the relays?

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4 minutes ago, radetailer said:

There isn't any numbers or letters that identify the relays whatsoever. The ones in question are the 2 directly left of the transformer in the pictures above. The diagram on the inside front panel of the box just shows 240v on each one.how can I identify the relays?

Who or where would I take a board to be repaired? What would the search terms be to find someone?

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10 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

With the help of an electrical engineer, we dr-soldered the relays which revealed the part number which I used to order the new relays. They'll be here next Tues.

What a relief this was.,

I was ready to condemn the board a couple of times but with the suggestions of those who replied to this discussion and insisted the board could be repaired, I'm now spending $20 instead of  $459.00!

I will report back as soon as the relays are installed and the tub is powered up and heating.

Thanks again to everyone that replied.

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