Who Makes Sams Club Spas?

[Aric]

Sam's club appears to offer spas from different manuf.

They have two that look similar, a Harmony and a Tranquility.

They have one called an Oasis, that may be made by the same company.

Then they have some really cheap looking ones called Maui and Bahama that look made by the same company.

Lastly they have a Members Mark M45 which they say is "Manufactured by the industry’s leading spa producer" (the domed foot massager does look familiar)

Anyway, just curious. Looks like about 3 different manuf. there.

[francishsu]

Sam's club appears to offer spas from different manuf.

[...]

Lastly they have a Members Mark M45 which they say is "Manufactured by the industry’s leading spa producer" (the domed foot massager does look familiar)

Member's Mark M45 is made by Imperial Spas and looks very similar if not identical to their Havencrest model.

Imperial Spas Havencrest Spa information at amazon.com

[flibotte]

The Harmony and Tranquility are made by Keys Backyard. I got a Keys tub from Sam's about a year and a half ago. I am happy with it. It is poorly insulated but other than that I haven't really had any issues with it. You get what you pay for. If you have any specific questions I would be happy to answer. Good Luck.

[Chrisj73]

Hey flibotte I know that it has been a while since you have posted this message, but I have a M45 and my circulation pump just went out and I just ordered another one. Do you have any experience with this pump? I am told that if you don’t keep it at 7.5ph or this pump will go bad like mine did. It spins on a ceramic ball like thing and then electronic magnets runs the impeller moving the water. I didn’t know if you had any information about this pump? I also am wondering what amp do you have your set at, I have mine at 50 amp and I think that I want to move it to 60amp. I have the correct size wire and enough power, but I will have to get a different CB. You know how much those in GFI are.. Did you wire your up? It does not have a neutral as far as I could tell, ( I could be wrong about the name of the wire) it has two 110v hot legs and an earth ground for the GFI and that is all I can see. I got a expert out here and said your right no neutral. Is your like that also? I am in desperate need of a manual. Would you know how I might be able to obtain a copy or a pdf or something like that of one. I need it for the jumper to move it to 60amp and well to read through it for anything else I might have missed. If you might be able to give me tech supports number it would be greatly appreciated also. Well now that I have asked just about everything from you or someone that might know these answers or can point me in the right direction that would be terrific.

Chris

PS I used this for therapeutic reasons. Fibromyalgia

I really do appreciate everything.

[spatech (the unreal one)]

Hey flibotte I know that it has been a while since you have posted this message, but I have a M45 and my circulation pump just went out and I just ordered another one. Do you have any experience with this pump? I am told that if you don’t keep it at 7.5ph or this pump will go bad like mine did. It spins on a ceramic ball like thing and then electronic magnets runs the impeller moving the water. I didn’t know if you had any information about this pump? I also am wondering what amp do you have your set at, I have mine at 50 amp and I think that I want to move it to 60amp.

Why do you want to upgrade to 60 A? That'll be extra cost for what reason. On some spas you can't run both pumps and the heater at the same time but that shouldn't be an issue for you. I haste to see added expense unless it’s necessary.

[Coastside Spas]

Before you go changing your electrical, you need to know specifically what your tub's requirements are. There are basically 2 wiring designs for hot tubs. It depends on the equipment. If your spa says it needs 4 wire service, then you need 2 hots, a ground AND a neutral. This is because your system will have need for both 240VAC and 120VAC. some components like heaters and pumps over 1.5HP will require 240VAC, while other components like stereo power supplies, blowers can be designed to only need 120VAC. If your system only uses 240VAC, then it is likely that you will not need a neutral. Again, you will need to verify this with your manual or off of the equipment pack data sheet, which can often be found inside the pack cover.

Keep in mind that your actually current load (AMPS) with everything on should be below the rating of the breaker by about 15% and the size wire should also be rated above the load you have. If you have a 50AMP and are seeing anything over 40 amps, then yes you should probably consider upsizing your wiring and breaker to handle it. Anytime a load runs close to breaker capacity, the breaker will begin to warm up and trip over time. This can also shorten the breakers life. Your best bet is to have an experienced electrician throughly evaluate your situation and insure you have the electrical capacity to handle the change as well.

As to the circ pump, yes it is possible that a mismanaged water condition can quickly disable it. You need to pay close attention to your pH AND your calcium hardness. If either of these are low, it can dissolve that ceramic post. If it is high then the post can build up scale, which in turn will cause the post to wear down in a short time. I replace these pumps regularly and in practically every case the post is the problem. There are other pump choices that could be considered if you have the space to switch to a different design.

[Chrisj73]

Ok well this is Chris again, I have some news and was wondering what ya'll think if you don't mind. I called Jacuzzi up and explained that I am getting the FL1 error and that I have been getting this error from time to time ever since day one and they had it on record that when I would call it was working and when I would hang up it would say FL1 this error is the flow control switch error and well I think that I might know what did cause it and what is causing it to stay on 90% of the time (the FL1 Error that is). Well the ozonator was never hooked up from the factory, the tubing is wrapped up in a nice bundle and wired tied under the lip of the Tub, and the ozonator is powered up but not plumbed to the spa's plumbing. I was told that by that not being hooked up and me not using chlorine that I got scales in my pipes so that was also causing the water to flow very slow and causing the FL1 error to come on (and the pump was bad because I didn’t keep my ph at the correct level also).

The spa tech came out and looked at my spa and said that the scales in the pipes was slowing down the water and to just load it up with chlorine to clean all of the scales out of the pipes then everything would be fine after that. It didn’t work because the pump was bad and it did need to be cleaned out, I hate using any chemicals in my spa because of the little bubbles popping in my face and just not that pleasant to me. I would rather not use them and replace the water every other month. I have rethought my non chemical using practices and will consider using them 100% of the time now. I called the tech and told him that it just was not working and he said add more chemicals so I did. It didn’t work so I called him back after a week and he ordered the circulation pump

So the Spa tech came out to may house Today and replaced my circulation pump, he called me up after about a minute and said that everything was great and to have a nice life. Well not in those words. I get home at lunch time to check out everything and guess what, FL1 error as soon as I turned the main pumps on. I called him back and said that the error was back up then he asked what error and I went back out to read it and low in behold it was working. Not a clue as to why but it was working with no error. I get home from work at the end of the day and the error was back up, would not clear out. I called the tech and let him know what was going on. He said that he would adjust the flow sensor or get it replaced and I would rather get it replaced myself.

What gets the scales out of the pipes the best? Chlorine? How much, I can barley breath when lifting the top and I have a good bit in there. I hate how it smells, but I don’t know any other way to get it out of the plumbing. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Also how do you hook up and ozonator? It has only one tube, I can only assume that you plumb it in one of the pipes that water is constantly circulated so that it can try and kill everything that the light comes in contact with? The tube is very long and I would like to cut it down a good bit. Get a T fitting and try and figure out where the best spot would be to tap in. I am guessing here so if anyone would like to chime in and tell me how to go about doing this a different way please let me know.

Lat but not least, the reason why I was thinking about moving to 60 amp is because I would like to have the heater on while the pumps are on high, sometimes it does start dropping in temp while having the jets on and I would like to keep the temp up but after reading your post I think that I will keep the 50amp CB in and keep the settings at 50 amps. Does the ozonator do very good at what it does? Defiantly hook it up? Just tap on any pipe that water moves through and be done with it?

Please point me in the right direction, the tech just is not the best one out there and I feel like it is going to be up to me to because he did say that I had to hook up the ozonator myself and I asked here and the place that he pointed out didn’t even have water in the pipe at that time and I am not to sure that it ever gets there, But I do not know. It was the small pipes that lets air out the pump so that there is not a air lock and water can flow in to the pump freely and I can be wrong about that also. I don’t mind being told that I am wrong with what I am thinking, but in a nice way please. I have had enough smart butt comments to fill up a life time.

1. Scaly pipe’s how to clean?

2. Ozonator and where and how to hook it up?

3. Fl1 flow control switch and what else could be the problem beside the circulation pump?

4. What chemicals do you use and is there a good place on line to order them at a good price?

5. What to use to check ph (the strips?)

6. What to use to check the calcium hardness?

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

1. Scaly pipe’s how to clean?

2. Ozonator and where and how to hook it up?

3. Fl1 flow control switch and what else could be the problem beside the circulation pump?

4. What chemicals do you use and is there a good place on line to order them at a good price?

5. What to use to check ph (the strips?)

6. What to use to check the calcium hardness?

#1 Adding chlorine will not get rid of scale. You need to use swirl away or jet clean to clean out the lines.

#2 Ozone will have to be hooked into one of your lower jets that works with the circ pump

#3 If you have that much scale, have you checked your filters? If they are all covered in scale you will need to clean them if you can, if not new filters. Is the heater also coated in scale restricting the flow of water through it?

#4 If you go to the water chemistry section, it will give you and idea on differnt chemicals and help you choice what might be right for you..IE Chlorine, Bromine, Nature2 and more.

#5 A test kit or strips, kits are more accurate if you want to get to exact science.

#6 kit or test strips also.

If you dont use or keep your chemicals correctly, not only are you going to trash the tub, you will get very ill. You would have to dump it after every use not to get sick, your "clean" body brings in all kinds of stuff!

[Hillbilly Hot Tub]

1. Scaly pipe’s how to clean?

2. Ozonator and where and how to hook it up?

3. Fl1 flow control switch and what else could be the problem beside the circulation pump?

4. What chemicals do you use and is there a good place on line to order them at a good price?

5. What to use to check ph (the strips?)

6. What to use to check the calcium hardness?

#1 Adding chlorine will not get rid of scale. You need to use swirl away or jet clean to clean out the lines.

#2 Ozone will have to be hooked into one of your lower jets that works with the circ pump

#3 If you have that much scale, have you checked your filters? If they are all covered in scale you will need to clean them if you can, if not new filters. Is the heater also coated in scale restricting the flow of water through it?

#4 If you go to the water chemistry section, it will give you and idea on differnt chemicals and help you choice what might be right for you..IE Chlorine, Bromine, Nature2 and more.

#5 A test kit or strips, kits are more accurate if you want to get to exact science.

#6 kit or test strips also.

If you dont use or keep your chemicals correctly, not only are you going to trash the tub, you will get very ill. You would have to dump it after every use not to get sick, your "clean" body brings in all kinds of stuff!