Jacuzzi J-400 LED Lighting Control

[seb101]

Hi all,

Does anyone know the details of how the LED lighting controllers (DCUs) on Jacuzzi tubs are wired/controlled?  I have inherited a J465 tub that was 'upgraded' at some point with a Balboa BP2100/TP800 control system.  Whoever did the conversion managed to keep the Audio system working but evidently gave up on the lighting.  All the LED wiring is intact but left disconnected inside the housing.

What I appear to have is 2 blue 'DCU' distribution boxes, one on the right and one on the left of the tub, these are still wired up to the individual LED lights in the footwell, headrests, cup-holders and waterfall.  Presumably, the DCUs needed a power connection and a control signal to command them to specific colours.   There appears to be 3 cables from each DCU, which I believe are:

1. Power (2-wire)
2. Power Switch (2-wire)
3. Control (6 wire)

Does anyone have any insight into how these DCUs are controlled?  Is it a proprietary control signal?  Or is it a simple RGBV- or RGBWV- type LED control found in typical LED strips?

Also, does anyone know what voltage the DCUs and LEDs are supposed to run on?

Thanks!

 

 

[seb101]

In the absense of any information that I can find online, I'm going to attempt this myself!

I have seen reference to enough mentions of '15V' for the LED system in Jacuzzi that I'm going to start with 15VDC as an assumption, if I blow anything up, I'm in no worse position as nothing works currently!  Worse case, it might be 15VAC which will be a nightmare anyway as there are no generic VAC LED controllers on the market.

The plan is:

1. The BP2100 outputs 10VDC 5A max on a 'lights' circuit, I'll pass this through a DC/DC buck converter to get 15VDC and apply this to the DCUs and see if I get any light output at all.  I'm hoping this will light them up in a deafult state but also may do nothing if there is no control signal.

2.  I have to assume the 5-wire control system is RGBWV+ it's unclear if this runs on the same 15V as the DCUs but in the absense of any other information I'll assume it does.  The trickiest part is going to be working out the assignment of the wiring pins, reversing the polarity on an LED can zap it instantly so I'm going to experiment on a broken pillow light fixture that needs to be removed in any case.

3. If the bench tests prove positive I'll wire in a Zigbee enabled 12-24VDC RGBW lighting controller and go for it!

 

Watch this space...