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Caldera Spas Palatino 2013 ish timeframe, Lines on display and pump running constantly

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Filled the hot tub last week for the daughter and he friend.  She noted after being in it for a while it wasn't as hot.  Really wasn't that cold of a night.  Noticed it running yesterday and saw this on the display.  After cycling the jets its stopped running but saw the temp was at 95 deg even tho set to 100 deg  I shut off tub at breaker last night to reset but eventually came back on.

Long story short, hot tub runs constantly, keeps tub hot but not up to right temp and has 2 sets of dashed lines on the display.  I see alot of mentions of a pressure switch, could that be my problem? 

Thanks for the help...IMG_4886.thumb.JPG.36643be83f3d8d7415f1d06514e51716.JPG

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Start here first:

Can you confirm if this was a factory 220V or a converted 110V to 220V tub?

It looks like it is wired for 220V and the jumpers don't match any of the diagrams. Please confirm that there is no jumper between N and L2 on the power infeed terminals.

If I'm correct and this is wired for 220V, and not a conversion, it needs to have the Jumper configuration set for diagram 1D (PLT), pins J4, J6 and J8 open, Pins 1,2,3,5,7,9 closed. Shut off the breaker and reset the jumpers.

The white label shows that the heater and pumps are dual voltage and the APM is 240 so I'm assuming that it was a 220V install.

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5 hours ago, ChuckP said:


This hot tub has been running like it its setup for 10 years now, no jumpers/wires have been messed with.  This problem arose 2 days ago.  I am getting 120v on each heater leg but yet the board shows there is no heater on per the leds in the below picture



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14 hours ago, cranbiz said:

Shut off the breaker, disconnect the heater and ohm it out. It should be between 10-14 ohms. Then make sure that you don't have continuity between the heater terminals and the case.

Ok shut off breaker, disconnected the heater wires from board.  assume its the 2 black cables that go into the silver pipe that are connected by nuts.  I got 15.4 ohms across them and no continuity to case.


Based on the above video linked I ordered a pressure switch, will be here Friday.  Hoping thats the problem, will report back when done.



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Ok got new pressure switch in and it heated up.  All good there.  Now it seems like the circ pump constantly runs and i see an F1 on the display.  Display looks broken up but its at 103 deg F, the camera did this.  You can clearly see the f1 tho..

I did have to replace the knob that controls the waterfall, it had cracked during winter.  Just the knob and the guts.  Also put a new filter in.



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