Jump to content

Greatly reduced jet pressure


buriboi
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

When I turned on my Hydropool Serenity 5000 hottub tonight, the pump sounded strange....high-pitched.   I checked the jets, and all jets were operating at around 25% of their usual pressure. 
The pump also only toggles between off and low speed - not high speed.

I can hear that water is flowing through the heater, but I feel that, too, sounds different than usual.    

I removed the filter to compare, and nothing seems to change.

My only repair trick is to turn off the power then back on.  If that doesn't solve it, I come here!

Thoughts??

P.S. filter area is clean, and the filter is newish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Buriboi:  Was the flow and pressure fine the very last time the spa was turned on?  It sounds like there is something restricting the flow.  Perhaps an object was pulled into the suction line. Do you have a diverter for a fountain on your model?  If so, move that lever and see if that helps.  What you hear is pump cavitation.   This occurs when the pump is straining to get adequate amounts of water in the pump strainer basket and housing.

You need to find the source and not run that pump as much until you do.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for reduced flow..

You might want to check inside the front of the pump wet end to see if something got lodged in there. 

There could be a broken check valve inline that is impeding the flow of water.

As for not having 2 speeds I think you need to fix the flow problem first and see if it's related.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Ahhsomeguy said:

Hi Buriboi:  Was the flow and pressure fine the very last time the spa was turned on?  It sounds like there is something restricting the flow.  Perhaps an object was pulled into the suction line. Do you have a diverter for a fountain on your model?  If so, move that lever and see if that helps.  What you hear is pump cavitation.   This occurs when the pump is straining to get adequate amounts of water in the pump strainer basket and housing.

You need to find the source and not run that pump as much until you do.

Water flow was perfect the day before.   

No fountain diverter either.  I 'm gonna check the wet end of the pump as per @CanadianSpaTech's recommendatition.  

Oh, here's a video of me turning the jets on and off twice.  You can it's pretty high-pitched and when I turn it off, it seems to be fairly "clunky". 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Updxate:  I took out the pump and it seemed ok when I run it (video attached).

So I decided to check the "gate" (I'm not too good with the lingo, lol) at the far end of the heater, and lo and behold, it was almost fully in the "down" position, despite the lift-bar being fully up.  (photo attached)

I presume that's why the water flow was so horrible, right?

So, for a completely useless fool like myself, is there an easy way to get that "gate" functional without having to resort to any kind of plumbing, lol?   I pushed it all the way back up, and it's holding for the time being, but I imagine it's now at high risk of falling down again.
 

gate.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting it to stay up you might get lucky. If it gets loose water can get past it and leak out around the handle shaft or the shaft can blow right out and will drain the spa in short order. Sadly no quick fix for a one piece gate valve. There are serviceable gate valves but they can have issues as well with gasket o-rings wearing out over time...but at least you can replace them. Having said that I still go for the one piece valves even though they are always a risk when using them. I don't "pull" on them.. To open when closed I use the end of my oil filter wrench and gently pry the handle up a bit (1") and then lift them up. Seems to work 9/10...lol.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Getting it to stay up you might get lucky. If it gets loose water can get past it and leak out around the handle shaft or the shaft can blow right out and will drain the spa in short order. Sadly no quick fix for a one piece gate valve. There are serviceable gate valves but they can have issues as well with gasket o-rings wearing out over time...but at least you can replace them. Having said that I still go for the one piece valves even though they are always a risk when using them. I don't "pull" on them.. To open when closed I use the end of my oil filter wrench and gently pry the handle up a bit (1") and then lift them up. Seems to work 9/10...lol.

 

Well, let's just cross our fingers for now.  I've never actually had to lower the gate in 7 years...I was contemplating using some of the JD Water Weld stuff to just jam it open, lol...maybe not a good idea, though. 

Anyhow, thanks everybody for your quick responses and insight, especially @CanadianSpaTech....I think you've taken the time to answer every question I've ever asked in here, lol!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welllll, that didn't last long. 

Based on the sound and reduced water flow, the gate valve has probably fallen back down, though not quite as much as last week.   Guess I'll get the local spa shop to come replace it  :(

My streak of luck with home repair is officially over with this hot tub....oh well - 7 years without a service call isn't bad!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Bummer. If you want to DIY it post a few photos of what's on the other side of the valve all the way back to rigid plumbing. Parts and everything needed would be well under a hundred. Difficulty 4/10

@CanadianSpaTech

So I called the local spa shop to inquire and the guy said it's about $250 to replace, which I'm cool with. Unfortunately, a service visit would be weeks and weeks away.

 He actually suggested, without me asking, that I could just drain the tub and find a way to keep the door open myself  Using glue or something similar like water Weld putty.

 Considering how atrocious I am with anything plumber anything plumbing related, I'm considering it.

But, since you suggested it,  here are the pictures of each of the gate valves... Maybe once I read the instructions, I'd be willing to do it myself if it's super easy.  

 

 

 

20220930_134505.jpg

20220930_134428.jpg

20220930_134422.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK so valve in the first photo? $250 is not out of line... and easy.. lol. There can be a bit of difficulty for a newb (sorry) in getting everything to not only line back up but sit flush to the heater manifold. Any time you cut plumbing you end up 1.5"-2" shorter and the missing 2" has to be replaced. A 2" coupler and a piece of 2" line would be needed and as mentioned experience helps to get everything to line back up properly and once glue is applied you only get on shot and the glue I use sets FAST 1-3 seconds and your done.

Yes you could apply a dab of 2 part plastic weld epoxy to lock the gate in the up position and be good. Wouldn't take much just enough to bond/join the knife/gate to the pump union coupler on the inside and keep it in the up position. If it ever fails and leaks then spend the $250.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share



×
×
  • Create New...