Jump to content

Issue with Coast Spa Motherboard (Model Manhattan 2006 - Gecko pack) after power failure


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, hope someone can help...I've seen lots of knowledgeable ppl here, so I'll try my shot.

I have a 2006 Manhattan 42 jet (RNM42) hot tub with Gecko Pack (model SC-CF-P122-P212-O1-AU11-H4.0-U-RL-JJC-NE-CC5). Motherboard is a 9911-5001985.

The topside is the vintage 4-button one like this: https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/uploads/monthly_2021_06/20210628_090627-01.jpeg.d98d6549d73ed6e589a573b91e0f3228.jpeg

Sooooo...After a planned lengthy power failure yesterday, the hot tub started up, but wife heard very odd and strange noises.

I finally got a chance to look at it tonight and the display is blank. no buttons work, but led backlight on the topside is working.

So here's the troubleshooting that I've done:

1) opened pack to look at the motherboard

2) checked input voltages (all good 120V/240V as it should)

3) checked all 3 fuses: they are good

4) Disconnected topside from motherboard to see if the pumps would start: nope!

5) Disconnected temp sensor if it would make a difference: nope!

6) When there's power to the SPA, there is one LED lit on the motherboard...looks like it is CR12

7) I didn't see any visual damage to any components on the board

...and now I'm stuck... I cannot seem to find any information about the motherboard per se. I found the troubleshooting guide and according to it, it states: change the motherboard, which, obviously no longer exists. I rather try to repair the existing board then get a replacement one.

Speaking of which, according to the geckodepot website, I couldn't find my board and options as per the replacement kit (closest I found was the same model except CC7 instead of CC5...IMHO that's close enough!) If I take the CC7, then the new board is 0610-300004. I have no clue how much it costs, but i'm expecting it'll be a swift kick in the...

Any tips, suggestions ideas before potentially looking at replacing the board?

Thanks all! :)

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

F4 is just below F3 but I am going to say your incoming 240V wiring is the issue. They don't look all the way in. Redo them and make sure they get all the way in and tug on them when finished to ensure you have good contact and they won't pull out. Let us know results

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply. I will check F4 first (now that I can see it...) .

As for the inputs, although they may look not all the way in, did register properly when I checked them last night. I haven't touched the leads since I've moved back in 2015 and I never had this issue happen before. I will confirm that they are OK.

...more at 11...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7PM update...

- Fuse F4 is fine

- input lines redone, tightened and solid. rechecked all voltages and still on par.

- re-energized the main breaker... status quo. (backlight of topside works, non working buttons or led display, CR12 still lights up.

Any other suggestions/advice?

 

led1.jpg.29bb26af0350bbb6f6afb71c1ba42a71.jpgled2.jpg.c5517e4fc8f2480cd26bdd306795751a.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only other thing I can offer is to remove the board from the pack and have a look on the back for darkened or burnt areas. There is a voltage issue somewhere. The F4 fuse powers the board and it could be a bad transformer (low fail rate) or full power is not getting from the wiring connections across to the board. In some packs you can test at the right side of where the wires connect to the board. Wires come in on the left of the terminal block and there are matching round holes on the right. See if you can test there for 240V.

On the right side of the pack where the topside plugs in you will see 2 round black with an X on the top. does the top where the x is feel bulged outward at all?

Where on the planet are you located?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again for the suggestions and assistance! 

I will test the voltages from the right terminal blocks. The capacitors are ok (no sign of leaking/bulging).

I also don't see any signs of burnt components on the front of the board, so I guess, as you suggested, it's time to remove the board for a closer inspection.

It might takes a few days to check it out as it's a pain in the rear end to access the panel (hot tub "sunken" in a sunroom, hence I need to dismantle a portion of the floor to access the panel). BTW don't shoot the messenger about having a hot tub in a sun room...it was there when we bought the house... ;)

My location is updated...only 500kms away! :)

Thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...