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New Heater still tripping GFCI


Tubber49
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So frustrated because I can't come up with an answer.  Only happens when I turn the heater on.  But I just discovered today that my pressure switch is leaking and my control box is pretty wet.  Ordered a new pressure switch. I'm hoping once it dries out and I put in the new switch, the problem will solve itself.

What I can't get past is why the pack runs just fine and only blows the breaker when calling for heat.  Wondering if the heater contactor getting so wet is the issue.

So while I wait for the switch to arrive, looking for thoughts to calm my racing mind!

TIA

 

 

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Well, the pressure switch is in and the heater comes on but blows the GFCI after running for about 10 minutes.  

Can't help but think my next move is to pull the contactor(s) out and see what that water did to the wires I can't see.

 

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

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Do you have an ozone generator as part of the system.. if so disconnect it and give it a try. If it still trips disconnect the heater from the circuit board and test for power coming off the board where the heater connects. If you get proper power and it doesn't trip replace the heater. 

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Spa model?  Picture of the control box and PS leak situation?  Is this 110 or 220?

 

Of note: breakers can get weak as they age and the amp spike of the heater turning on could be making a nuisance breaker...well, be a nuisance.

 

I would make sure your 'brand new heater' isn't faulty.  Take your multimeter set to OHMs and verify you have NO resistance from green (ground) to black and then also from green to white.  You DO want resistance from white to black as it is a resistive component hence heat generation.

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That looks like an old school metal housing control box. That could make finding a short more time consuming if it’s inside the box itself as a loose wire.

Make sure it’s dry for any troubleshooting, #1

 

Heaters are simple resistive components that generate heat when the flow of electrons is slowed down as they travel through the element. There is no logic inside a basic heating element. If you do have the appropriate level of ohmic resistance between hot and neural and also NO resistance from ground to either hot or neutral, the heater should be okay and your issue likely lies elsewhere.

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  • 1 month later...

CanadianSpaTech, Mike223, Spa Shop, Thanks for all your help.  I got nowhere and couldn't get to much because the rust was too heavy and couldn't get the parts out.

So my AP4 is now retired.  There is more to this story but it will be on another thread.

Thanks again  I love this forum!

 

 

 

 

 

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