abcdefghii Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 Earlier today I went to convert my Nordic Spa Retreat MS from 110V to 220V. It uses a Balboa 300 control panel, looked up instructions, made sure power was off, flipped the dip switch, turned power on, the display came on for a split second, then sent off. Notice, I said I only flipped the dip switch. So, I'd initially forgotten to remove the jumper wire from J11 to J33 (although the instructions on the side said J32, mine was on J33). The instruction I found online seemed to just mention the dip switch, it was when trying to figure out why it came in, then immediately off that I noticed the steps listed by Balboa on the side. Looking at the fuses, it appears that the 300mA is blown. Tested with a meter and no continuity, annoyingly, no where local stocks these. My question while waiting on a new fuse, would my failing to remove that jumper wire have caused it to initially power on for that second, then the fuse to blow and it not power up again? If so, is it likely good to go with simply replacing the fuse? I'm hoping that I didn't damage any other components in that split second it powered on. Second question, using a voltage detector, even with the GFCI off at the spa panel, it's still detecting power at the hot tub itself (on the wiring coming into the tub) Is this telling me the GFCI is no good? If so, I'll replace that along with the fuse. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 Check the white wire coming from the spa going into the GFCI. It has to go into the gfci and the pigtail to the Neutral. Common mistake to run both whites to the neutral bar. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see how it is wired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abcdefghii Posted June 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 I do know for sure the wire coming from the spa is going to the GFCI and the pigtail to the neutral bar, made sure to get that piece right at least!! I will double check it shortly though, just in case I screwed up somewhere, 99% sure it is wired correctly in that spot though. The spa was running in 110V mode when I purchased it used (the guy had it running and showed me everything working before I bought it). I'll take an actual picture of the board shortly, but have one of the schematic I took yesterday (the image upload keeps failing, here is a link to it): https://i.imgur.com/KlznIy1.jpg Assuming that Switchbank A, goes from 1 to 10 (L to R), I moved the jumper in spot 10 down. Once I realized it, I then removed the jumper wire going from White AC to Red AC. The fuse that is blown is to the right of the TB1 block, the one labelled "F4 0.3A 250V" I believe that's the transformer protection fuse, which would make sense for it to blow since I attempted to send 240V while configured for 120V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abcdefghii Posted June 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 Had a neighbor take a look at the GFCI wiring, all good there, so just hopeful that with the fuse replaced I can get this up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted June 6, 2022 Report Share Posted June 6, 2022 Sounds like every thing is set properly. Should be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abcdefghii Posted June 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2022 It's working!!! Installed the new fuse, turned the breakers on and we're in business. Now the fun of water chemistry begins.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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