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Jacuzzi J355 FLO error Circ pump or flo switch


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Hi All, 

I hope you are well, just wondering what the likely issue is for my 2005 J355 Jacuzzi, i have an intermitted FLO error, I have checked there is no air lock and it doesn't appear that the circulation pump is working, it is making a humming noise and when working sounds fine. 

Some photos and video attached, I have heard upgrading the circ pump and deleting anti freeze return line should sort it out? 

 

Thanks in advance! 

 

Ben 

spa 1 .jpeg

spa 2 .jpeg

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Hi, I did remove the filters and put new ones in about 4 months ago, I kept the caps on top of them, the change filter warning did not go away, I removed the filters then it did, replaced them without the little caps on top and it seemed to be ok for a while. 

I was going to run a cleaning solution through the spas system? may be clogged up, also give the filters another clean. 

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Any time you get an error on the topside always remove the filters first and reset the breaker off/on. Run without them until issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation. Dirty filters are flow killers. 4 Months is a long time. Filters should be cleaned bi weekly and deep cleaned every 6 weeks with filter wash. Cleaner you keep your filters the better it will run. 

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Thanks a lot! I did not know they have to be done that often! I have removed them and still have the clean filter error, any idea if running a cleaning solution through could fix the issue or will likely need to break down the lines and find out what is causing a blockage? if not what has burned out and causing the FLO issue.. 

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In your second photo you see the flow switch. It has a post and a toggle. When the circ pump is running the toggle should be pushed up against the post making a connection. When the spa starts from an off position at the breaker and you power up the first thing to start will be the circ pump. It will move the water through the heater and across the flow switch closing the toggle against the post and this connection tells the heater that there is flow of water through the heater tube and that it's ok to turn the heater on. If there is a restriction of flow (Dirty Filters. Faulty circ pump, air lock or bubbles) it will send a flo error to protect the heater. If the toggle is against the post and you have a flo error you need to test/bypass the flow switch. Disconnect the flow switch from the circuit board and you will see 2 pins sticking out from the board. Use a flat head screwdriver and touch the 2 pins at the same time and this should bypass the flow switch and if the flo goes away replace the flow switch...or you could cut the wire and join the 2 wires together. Very important to make sure you have flow before bypassing the switch. If the heater fires with not flow it will boil the water in the tube in a second and can cause damage to the heater or even fire.  

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Thanks a lot SpaTech! I am an electrician so will do that to see if there is flo/circulation pump is working. From my experience with motors it does sound as is the circulation pump cannot prime/get flo initially on turning the spa on at the main switch/circuit breaker. 

 

If it is a faulty circulation pump I have heard you can get some new model circ pumps for my J355 that don't need the anti freeze return line as below, any recommendations regarding that model? I will report back with an update later. Thanks again! 

Genuine ITT Laing E10 Spa Circ Pump

https://www.spastore.com.au/genuine-itt-laing-e10-.07kw-spa-circ-pump?gclid=CjwKCAjw7vuUBhBUEiwAEdu2pI4glJ0adGYPfbpju5uk7ADYln4s50-NXxlx8DfCCPh6YBseePYswRoCiJkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

 

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Hi all, 

Just an update, filters were removed all FLO error disappeared. 

When heating to 37 degrees celcius top temp on this spa is 40, the FLO error did not appear, however this morning when I went out and set to 38 I heard the Circulation pump kick over and within 5 seconds it stopped and FLO appeared, potentially a faulty pump? Will short out FLO switch and close it to see if that makes it kick over as Canadian suggested, if it does work then would suggest the FLO switch is causing the error past a set temperature and not the pump. 

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Update 2: The circulation pump does switch on but I have to move one end of the pump up (end with no tubes) once its in that position the flo switch closes and the circ pump starts. I have wedged a small ceramic non combustible item under it, the bracket the circulation pump goes into appears to be not fit for the pump installed or it has been moved? 

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Not uncommon with the Laing E-10 circ pumps. They are magnetic drive and have small bearings inside the post sits on and they can get wonkey and start/stop. You will likely need to replace it. As for the bracket it sits in it is not a big deal if it is removed and just use a screw to hold it in. It's not going anywhere...unless you are going to move the spa to a different location. I normally just drain the spa and run AHH-Some plumbing line cleaner through it before draining if you have not done a purge on it in a while. 

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Working on a 2007 Dim1 19 DT swim spa, we have a circ pump on the swim side only. But trust me you have keep an eye on  them  Those pesky circ pumps are working 24/7, they are a lot smaller than the larger pumps in these systems. The durability for the size is impressive.  I like the "Is it working?" bubble explanation the best, after replacement or repair, you will need to test past the breakers and then to your  GFCI if all is good you turn on your GFCI and it resets and holds. You will then  hear the circ come on and the topside controller will indicate normal display of temp  conditions vs the "Flow Error" message. The pump when working properly will start  producing an in tub "bubble stream" coming out of the small outlet in the tub foot well. The bubble stream will arch up to the surface continuously unless the circ pump power source is interrupted. Check the heat signature on your curc pump by simply touching it. It should not be to hot to touch if so it could needing a rebuild (yeah you can do that) or a total R & R depending on what money you have left in this inflation period. Good hunting and hope you figure it out and have Joy and warm water....always

IMG_6640.JPG

DSCI0031 (2).JPG

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Thanks, all it was showing is the internal impeller within the pump and the bearing/shaft it was on had some play in it, moved around quite a bit, was wondering if it would be worth trying to get it fixed, however appears access to the area behind the pump may be tricky. 

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If you open the front you will see the impeller there wil be a "chrome" ring. If you pull it it should pull apart. The magnet is holding it in place and when you go to put it back together the magnet will pull it out of your hand. Inside you will see the tiny bearing ring and this is where they get loose/wonky. I normally just replace in this case (time is money) but think there is a rebuild kit available. Make sure to order 230V if buying new

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