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H136 Jacuzzi


Boo
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I've had this hot tub for a hot minute.. Bought the shell and built the skirt. Probably 8 years ago when I rebuilt.  I replaced the motor, Ozonater, updated the board and topside control panel.

seemed to be working fine until the topside control panel started the slow flashing. It would shutdown. I restart it maybe it would run an hour. 

Now it seems the heater is continuously running. Even after topside control unit shows its off. No light showing.. Heater should be off but isn't.  On startup it starts low power motor, also checks heater.. red light on then off.. the pump should continue running on low but it doesn't. Motor shuts off meanwhile I hear the water boiling inside the heater and immediately shut it down, because the motor doesn't continue to run. Unless I double tap the button and turn the motor on high.  

Could this be a bad mainboard? 

H136 Jacuzzi® Spa Circuit Board 51424_ H311000

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Sounds like it could be a stuck heater relay. Disconnect the heater from the circuit board for testing. If left connected you could do some damage or even fire. It will boil the water in the heater tube in seconds. 

Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we know what you have.

The flow switch should not allow the heater to stay engaged when the circ pump stops. The flow switch protects the heater.

Test for 240V at the heater connections at the circuit board when the spa should not be heating and the flow switch is open. If it is still getting 240V look to the heater relays. 

 

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I do have a multimeter… I’m ok with it I guess… it’s definitely getting voltage when the red light don’t light up on the topside control panel it will boil the water without the pump engaging. I was thinking it would be the high pass. No reset button on this board though.

Thanks for all your help I’m definitely no pro but I made it last this long.. if I knew what I was doing I would throw an aftermarket board and top panel on it.. I hate that the only code you get is a flashing red light with this legacy equipment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stuck relay. Any decent computer/electronics repair guy can replace them pretty cheap.

If you are going to (try to) get a board I advise you just get a replacement pack. Balboa VS systems are under $500 with new topside, heater, sensors, and extras. Should swap out without replumbing.

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Sounds like an awesome plan… can you advise which kit I should retrofit?

 

would definitely love to update it to be bit more friendly in the future. Along with display and whatever I need to make it more reliable and safe. 1 pump.. simple hot tub for the most part.

113865F2-E892-4409-A8CD-2975235F83DE.jpeg

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Thanks cranbiz…seems like a great option rather than trying to revive this legacy crap… old tub but it holds water… one pump. 
So going through the check list… my ozanator is 110 right?

probably order it tonight… good info..

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So I ordered that product.. should have been a sales rep Cranbiz. More bang for the buck.. just hope it plugs into my sensors and Prozone without a hitch..wish me luck.. thanks again for all the advice.. better option than screwing with the overpriced legacy equipment. Just the original jacuzzi h316 board alone runs around 600. 

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The Balboa M7 technology has the sensors in the heater tubs so you won't need the old sensors. You might need a block out plate for the topside if the new one is smaller than the original.

 https://www.spadepot.com/eco-spa-Topside-Adapter-Plate-P3128

Also for spa pack here: https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185

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11 hours ago, Boo said:

So I ordered that product.. should have been a sales rep Cranbiz. More bang for the buck.. just hope it plugs into my sensors and Prozone without a hitch..wish me luck.. thanks again for all the advice.. better option than screwing with the overpriced legacy equipment. Just the original jacuzzi h316 board alone runs around 600. 

If your Prozone is more than a year old or so, it probably isn't working anymore. It may look like it's working but chances are it's not doing anything except making bubbles.

It should be 110V in any case. it may not be a direct plug in but can be made to work. The installation guide for the VS501 says the pack comes with a 3 wire ozone cable so all you should have to do is splice that cable to your Prozone.

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  • 2 weeks later...

No, not required, just handy to have. All ozone generators wear out and stop working. Being unaware of the failure can lead to problems, as you have to change your maintenance routine without ozone. So by drilling a small hole in the side panel and installing the indicator you have a way to know. Likely newer tubs have these built in. 

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Last one had to be shot probably because the way I mounted it below the water level. It was probably 4-5 years old anyway… also had a bad check valve.
 

 

Awesome… all plumbing completed! Now I just have to finish the wiring, fill it up, then turn the power on. Hope it all goes well! “plug and pray”.

 

image.jpg

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During priming mode I hear the pump kick in but I can’t get ANY flow through the jets.. I was afraid somehow it was reversed so I swapped the black and red positions on the pump… still no flow… bad impeller? Damn… seems like everything went bad at the same time.

air locked into the pump… wow.. never had it not pump anything. Learning experience! Everything’s working as it should!
 

 

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Best Thing I could have done to this spa! The controls are SO much better with the new topside panel.  I'm sure this will be safer, more efficient, more reliable alternative; and perfect solution for the problematic old equipment I used to have. So far the new Balboa kit is working great. Tricky to configure at first. After a Youtube video of someone installing and configuring one it was a poc. It did take me all day though, had to replace a blown breaker to top it off.  I'm a low voltage technician... I probably shouldn't screw with some things but I do... But what can I say. Just glad I didn't screw up the equipment! 

Thanks for all the help and input from everyone here. 

 

 

804669403_HotTubREBUILD2-6-22.jpg

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