Hot Springs Spa - D9 or Pressure switch jump issue?

[imlost]

[cranbiz]

26 minutes ago, imlost said:

I still think it's wired wrong. Test each one of these 3 lugs individually, and let us know which are 120v and which is the neutral. You will not get any voltage reading from the neutral lug. 

Also, are you absolutely sure that's the correct wiring diagram for your hot tub? It's critical. 

I agree, that breaker isn't wired right. Move the black wire to the open terminal. For reasons I don't quite understand, there is no neutral going to the heater terminals so the 30A GFCI doesn't have a connection to the load side of the neutral. The 2 outside terminals are L1 and L2. You are using the black and white wires on the 30A breaker for your line voltage.

[AshleyD17]

I'm new to testing this thing so bare with me. If I put it on the first circled (white) and second circled (black) I get 120. First circle (white) and third circled (empty) I get 120. Second circled (black) and third circled (empty) gives me 241. Is this what you mean? 

[AshleyD17]

Going to try moving black wore to open term now. The test results I posted right before this was prior

[AshleyD17]

Alright moved the wire over. Here's what I get now 1st (white) and empty 120. First (white) and 3rd (black) 120. Empty and 3rd (black) 241. Fun fact..now the very original issue I posted about D9 flashing red on top middle of new relay board is back to flashing and still nothing on H1 and H2. Time for an electrician?

[imlost]

Don't do anything more until you change the jumper back to 18v, if you have the original main board. Hopefully, you haven't fried it yet.

Check the inside of the business part of your spa for the electrical diagram.

[AshleyD17]

Ahh yes should have mentioned its back on 18v. Sorry got leaving that info out

[imlost]

I don't know how else to say this... You need to stop, slow down, and understand what you're doing before you move forward, or you're liable to ruin your main board. 

[imlost]

38 minutes ago, cranbiz said:

I agree, that breaker isn't wired right. Move the black wire to the open terminal. For reasons I don't quite understand, there is no neutral going to the heater terminals so the 30A GFCI doesn't have a connection to the load side of the neutral. The 2 outside terminals are L1 and L2. You are using the black and white wires on the 30A breaker for your line voltage.

What you're saying is not correct. Give me a minute, and I'll explain what is going on in another post. 

[cranbiz]

On 1/6/2022 at 7:52 PM, AshleyD17 said:

Ahh yes OK my apologies. Here is the diagram that came with new board! I am going to check if those are reversed..although they definitely were that way on the old board. Which is not shocking in the least on this house sale inheritance...

H1 and H2 are the heater output terminals. You should have your 30A white wire as connected to terminal 1 on the board and the other end as currently connected to the 30A breaker and the black wire connected to terminal 3 but the breaker needs the black wire moved to the outside, currently empty terminal on the breaker. The 20A breaker should have a black on terminal 2, red on terminal 4 and neutral on terminal 5. There should not be a jumper between 4 and 5. The breaker end is correct.

All this is assuming that your GFCI breakers are wired like all other GFCI breakers I have dealt with.

This wiring diagram isn't correct. You have fig. 1.2 here, you need to use fig 1.3

[cranbiz]

OK, @imlostappears to be right for the breaker. It's not laid out like any that I'm familiar with.

I'm going to bow out here as I don't want to muddy the waters any further. 

However, you do need to use figure 1.3 for your breaker wiring. 

[imlost]

OK, here's what we can deduce from the test you did on the breaker:

left lug and center lug = 120v
left lug and right lug =120v
center lug and right lug=240v

...so, the left lug is the neutral lug. 

YOU NEED TO BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THE WIRING DIAGRAM YOU PROVIDED IS THE CORRECT ONE FOR YOUR HOT TUB. I'd check the equipment area to see if there's an electrical schematic. It's usually on a decal somewhere. If you know that it is, then this is how your wiring should be configured, based on the original diagram I've posted below:

The white and black wires will be "L1" and "L2" (LINE 1 and LINE 2). These are to be connected to separate poles on the breaker, so will be in the center and left positions. Typically, a white wire is used for neutral, but in this case, it is "LINE" or hot. 

For the neutral, you'll see that for both the 20 and 30 amp breakers, these are connected to the neutral bus bar, which is shown with an "N", below. The 20amp breaker also has a neutral that goes to the heater relay panel. This is also indicated with an "N". This is the neutral for the relay panel. 

I'll continue this explanation in another post, with the diagram for the new relay panel. 

[imlost]

Please notice that in the wiring diagram above, there are (2) L1 (hot) wires coming from each breaker. This indicates that there is a 240v connection from each breaker. 

The wiring diagram you've shown that came with your relay board, shows only (1) L1 wire and (1) N coming from the 20a breaker. This indicates that it's only 120v. There is a discrepancy with this information. Either you're looking at the wrong diagram on those instructions, or you don't have the correct relay board. See circled area below. 

[imlost]

35 minutes ago, cranbiz said:

OK, @imlostappears to be right for the breaker. It's not laid out like any that I'm familiar with.

I'm going to bow out here as I don't want to muddy the waters any further. 

However, you do need to use figure 1.3 for your breaker wiring. 

This sounds correct. Usually, there are different wiring diagrams provided on the same instructions, as these boards are used in many different spas. 

Also, because the 20 & 30a breakers appear to be made from different manufacturers, don't assume the neutral is in the same position. It will be good to test it, as well. 

[AshleyD17]

I posted earlier the correct one..sorry this one came back up from earlier on in troubleshooting. Here's the correct one I reposted about 5 hours ago. Sorry for the confusion 

[imlost]

You've never stated the model and year of your hot tub, or the original wiring diagram, so it's difficult to know if we're giving you the correct advice.

Also, it's not helpful for you to post pictures of the current configuration, and then tell us to ignore the pictures. For the sake of clarity, it will be good if you can start over with the correct info.

[AshleyD17]

Sorry for any confusion. I tried correcting/clearing it up with the earlier post. My original post had the hot tub info: it is a 2005 Hot Springs Vanguard. Worked fine until relay board burnt up (which was coincidently..or maybe not? Discovered after a power outage on Christmas day). Prior to then no issues at all and I've previously replaced the heat pump and circ pumps as well as the 20V on the GFCI when I first brought it back to life about 2 years ago after it came with the house we bought. I'm re-posting the diagram from the user manual that was with it and it matches the online version identically so it is accurate. Also posting figure 1.3 which is the correct diagram that came in the directions for the relay board replacement. My original issue is after just replacing the relay board, I was getting a flashing D9 top center of relay board which from what I could find, meant the board was "bad." Didn't change any wiring at that point from the original setup just figured it was my luck that new board was a dud (saw others had this issue)..ordered another one and installed it, same thing. Resolved that by replacing what appeared to be a damaged connector on my red wire from motherboard..no more flashing but now I'm where I'm at now with no power to H1 or H2 even though all lights are correct internally and no errors, etc on display. Hope this clears it up! I really do appreciate all of the help you all have provided. (Last pic is inside cover from iq2020 box) 

[imlost]

OK. Thanks for posting the pic of the inside of the IQ cover. This is what we need!

You need (2) line (hot) wires coming from each of the two breakers in your subpanel, to your heater relay panel. Each of these wires needs to be connected to it's own pole on the breaker (each wire is connected at an individual lug). In addition to this, there needs to be a single neutral wire coming from the 20amp breaker to the relay panel. There is no neutral wire connection between the 30amp breaker and the relay panel. 

At the relay panel, wire it as follows:

Hot wires from 30a breaker- connect to terminals 1 and 3.

Hot wires from 20a breaker to terminals 2 and 4.

Neutral wire from 20a breaker to terminal 5.

Test each lug for power at the breakers, before connecting wires, so you don't get this wrong.

[RDspaguy]

On 1/10/2022 at 8:12 PM, AshleyD17 said:

1 and 3 showing 1.3, 2 and 4 now showing  0, 2 and 5 showing 0. At a complete loss as wires exactly as it was before I changed the relay board out

This says both breakers are off, so this

On 1/11/2022 at 4:41 PM, AshleyD17 said:

Everything turns on, jets/waterfall work and I have bubbles out of the bottom just no power to the heater (even though it too says its on).

is a contradiction. Which is it? Are you sure your tester is working and set properly? You want ac volts, which could be marked with a wavy line.

The 30 amp breaker is wired wrong. The black and white wires should be on the outer 2 terminals, not the one in the middle. This is the heater voltage, and right now it is sending 120v for the heater circuit. These two wires (black and white) should go to terminals 1 and 3 (remember, #3 is the 4th terminal. The othe 20 amp breaker goes to 2 4, and 5, with 5 being the neutral (white) wire.

This appears to use 2 cables, one with a black and white wire, and one with a black, red, and white wire. Is that correct? The wires in each cable are for separate breakers. It appears that the black from the black/red/white cable is connected to the wrong breaker. Make sure the wires in the white/black cable are on terminals 1 and 3.

It does not matter which cable your ground is in, so long as you have one.