AshleyD17 Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 Hello all! First time poster but long time follower. Recently had a power outage and when power resumed, I noticed my hot tub started dropping temp even though all signs pointed to go. Turns put relay board was fried..not sure if it was a coincidence but regardless I replaced it (IQ2020) and hooked everything up exactly the same (minus the obvious changes in the new 2 relay board vs the old 3). D9 flashes repeatedly. Figured new board was bad (my luck) so replaced again..same thing. The only way I can get D9 to stop flashing is taking off the jumped pressure switch (replaced heater a few years ago and had to be jumped permanently due to new model). Obviously now I'm getting the flashing red and green lights on the display because I took the pressure jump off. Question is..could my jump be "bad"? I ordered an actual replacement jump (as opposed to the current crossed wires and tape method) but I'm not even sure that will fix the problem because I can't find anything on the WWW about bad jumps, just bad pressure switches in general. Thanks in advance for any advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 So, you replaced the whole pack (IQ2020) or the relay board? It's not the jumper. Post pics of circuit board and wiring diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 Hi! Yes just the relay board. Twice, technically as the first one did the same thing so figured it was a dud but this one does the same thing. For clearer context, everything "works" (jets, drain bubbles, displays no error codes, etc) but D9 on top middle of relay panel blinks and water won't heat. Just trial and error led me to pull the pressure switch jump off and D9 stops blinking but then of course jets stop working and get the flashing green and red lights on the display. Note: not an airlock, filters are clean, I've drained and refilled the tub, circ pump appears to be working and my heater was replaced about a year or so ago. Wired up same as burnt board and notched the metal bracket (which is off in these pics because I was just tired of taking it on and off to troubleshoot!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 20220106_180603.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 I meant the wiring diagram for the new relay board. It should have had one in the package. It's hard to be sure from the pics, but it looks like you have 2 and 3 reversed. Verify that it is wired properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 Ahh yes OK my apologies. Here is the diagram that came with new board! I am going to check if those are reversed..although they definitely were that way on the old board. Which is not shocking in the least on this house sale inheritance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 Verified the wires are correct. When I tried switching 2 and 3, breakers trip and no power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 8, 2022 Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 The red jumper wire appears to have some discoloration. Is that terminal good and tight? Chech voltage into the main board from the jumper wires. Check for corrosion or damage on the pins where the boards connect. If the pressure switch wire is the jumper, connect it inside of the box. Verify it has continuity. Verify proper voltage from the breakers at the terminal bar. Verify that the relay board is set to the proper voltage according to the jumpers on the top left (12v or 18v). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2022 I think you're on to something with the red wire! I stripped it and put a new connector on it and the dreaded flashing light went away! Everything else appears to be operating as normal so now the waiting game begins to see if it is actually heating. Will report back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2022 Well think I spoke too soon. Although the red flashing d9 is gone, it appears I have no power on h1 and h2 it is reading 0. 1 and 2 are reading 122. 2 and 4 reading 244. 3 and 5 reading 122. Any other ideas? It's a 240v tub with no jumpers installed and set to 18v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 5 hours ago, AshleyD17 said: 1 and 2 are reading 122. 2 and 4 reading 244. 3 and 5 reading 122. Ok. 1 and 2 are different breakers, as are 3 and 5. You need to test from 1 to 3 (240v), and 2 to 4 (240v), and 2 and 4 to 5 (120v). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Test post. Keep getting an error message on the forum when trying to reply please forgive me if this is a duplicate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 1 hour ago, RDspaguy said: Ok. 1 and 2 are different breakers, as are 3 and 5. You need to test from 1 to 3 (240v), and 2 to 4 (240v), and 2 and 4 to 5 (120v). Ok this is what I've got: H2 and H10 still 0, 1 and 3 showing 1.3, 2 and 4 now showing 0, 2 and 5 showing 0. At a complete loss as wires exactly as it was before I changed the relay board out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 So, you have no voltage? Are the breakers on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Yep appears that way. None of the breakers trip or anything either so I don't know what changed. Everything turns on, jets/waterfall work and I have bubbles out of the bottom just no power to the heater (even though it too says its on). Didn't make it outside to mess with it again today but I'm going to go back to square one and just try rewiring everything based on the wiring schematic that came with the new relay board as opposed to the hot tub manual. Only thing else I can think to try before I call and wait on a pro I live in the middle of nowhere so fingers crossed because I already know it will take forever to get someone out here (if I even can!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Likely a dumb question but figured I'd ask since my colors on my wires don't match my diagrams..the neutral. Would it be the one that's grouped with the 3 wires (red/white/black) or would it be on the other set of 2 wires that are grouped together (black and white) most likely? Pretty sure my ground wire is grouped with the 2 set (white and black) if that helps at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 Well made a few switches and still 0 for H1 and H2 but for all the other ones you told me to test..now I get 120 at 1 and 3 and 1.3 for all of the rest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranbiz Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 The picture of the circuit breakers shows both of them off. The 30A GFCI appears to be wired for 110V and looks to be missing the screw/clamp on the missing leg, the 20A GFCI appears to be wired for 220V. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 I'll check out missing screw. They were off in the picture I just took that for reference when I was working on it. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 Alright guys getting closer (I think!) When the new board came in it was set to 18V. Nothing said to change it to 12V so I left it. Read something on another forum last night that said if I went from the 3 relay (old) to the new 2 relay to try the 12V. Just did that and this is now what I'm getting... Still nothing on H1 and H2 BUT now I'm getting 122 at 1 and 3, 244 at 2 and 4, and 122 at 2 and 5. Not sure if it matters but showing 244 at 3 and 4 and 121 at 3 and 5. Added the missing screw as well on the leg on the 30v at the breaker (it wasn't there before but just in case). Still can't understand H1 and H2 though ...literally 0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imlost Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 RE: Jumper - If your MAIN BOARD (not relay board) has been replaced, you'd want to switch it to 12v, otherwise, I believe you should leave it on 18v. I recommend slowing down and checking things from the source before continuing. You're only going to fry things if you keep moving wires/jumpers around. The wiring on your 30a GFCI breaker does not look correct. On that breaker, please verify which of the lugs are 120v, and which is the neutral. If you provided the correct wiring diagram for your hot tub, from the 30a breaker you should have (2) 120v wires going to your relay panel, and NO neutral wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AshleyD17 Posted January 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 Let me try adding some new pictures where I'm currently at. Everything is off at the main right now so disregard the breakers positions for pic purposes. I think I may have originally attached the wrong diagram from the replacement relay board. Note also this is how it was wired before I switched the board. Doesn't mean it is right (by any means) but everything worked that way for a year. I really appreciate all of yalls help! (First diagram is from user manual and 2nd is from relay board replacement instructions) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imlost Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 I still think it's wired wrong. Test each one of these 3 lugs individually, and let us know which are 120v and which is the neutral. You will not get any voltage reading from the neutral lug. Also, are you absolutely sure that's the correct wiring diagram for your hot tub? It's critical. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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